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I use the IDS grip on my M10-P because I feel the M10-P is too heavy to grip for long time with the bare body. But for M4, I’m not sure if I also need a handgrip because it is way lighter than M10-P with the same lens setup. And for aesthetic reason I don’ like the IDS grip for analog M and also many other grips that enclose the whole baseplate with considerably ugly thickness add to the body. I very much prefer the sleek design of analog M-bodies. So I want to try the 14405 but when I saw its second-hand price I hesitated and found the made-in-our-China replica only sells at 1/3 of the preown-price for 14405. So I ordered one, but disappointed once I put it on. There is plenty much room between the handle and the body of my M4, and the grip becomes unsteady and crappy. I asked the manufacturer and his response is they made it primarily for M6, period. I have never touched an M6 in real life so I doubt if there is really that much difference between the M4 and M6? I thought the Leica Ms are quite consistent with the M4 design after the M5 affairs…

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I use 14405 which I own many units on M4, M4-2, M4-P, M6, M-A, MP, etc.

Since very long time user, only some Leitz/Leica lenses with goggles need to unmount the14405 first to mont the lens.

Quite handy but the space between the the 14405 and the M is always there.

I have nothing to say about the rigidity of the combo.

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/322529-any-difference-optically-between-summilux-35-classic-pre-asph-versions/?do=findComment&comment=4234448

I had a look at one 14405 of mine,

The unit needed some works to be better, I added a thick rubber bumper between the handle and the M body,

and the surface decay (felt like corrupted) was covered with something more durable.

Edited by a.noctilux
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I use a Leica 14405 when I want to centralise the tripod socket and it fits all my M cameras better than in your photo of the Chinese copy. BUT, the Leica grip does have a small rubber spacer/bump stop at the top of the handle and this rests against the body and stops the handle leaning in towards the body. If you glued a spacer in the same place it may well equalise the gap. The gap itself isn't small on the Leica grip, about the same along its length as the widest part in your copy. Of course it could work the other way and a spacer pushes the whole handle outwards even more.

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Edited by 250swb
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5 minutes ago, Bronco McBeast said:

The very best is the Abrahamsson grip, if you need a grip. 

Are you confusing the Abrahamssom Winder and Grip with the far simpler and easier to use Leica 14405? I mean, why add so much weight just for the sake of holding on to the camera? Its a lovely thing, but I've got one and wouldn't recommend it given the OP's opening question.

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It’s a grip that can be attached either to the baseplate or to the Abrahamsson rapidwinder.

 

It’s truly the best made grip.

I own Two but never use them, I just can’t, as the naked Leica M camera is just so great as it is.

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Edited by Bronco McBeast
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I can live with a grip to a digital M camera because most of the time the baseplate is replaced by the part of the grip.

A grip to a M film camera with extra piece onto the baseplate?! Hell no!!!, it is like a penis to a beautiful woman. Nothing wrong about it, you may like it but not my thing.

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16 minutes ago, Warton said:

..A grip to a M film camera with extra piece onto the baseplate?! Hell no!!!, it is like a penis to a beautiful woman. Nothing wrong about it, you may like it but not my thing.

I have no idea what you’re talking about.  Want to give it another try?

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I find the Leica grip super handy.  Because ….roll of the drums… it provides a grip.  There is a reasom that pretty much every camera sold today has a built in grip, and built in grips started with the Nikon F3.

The Leica M is more beautiful w/o one, but also is essentially a smooth bar of soap w/o one.

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For me, my cameras are tools that must work as quickly and reliably as possible. I've solved that grip issue (which I find absolutely reasonable) with Velcro (also on the front side). Not pretty, but works great.

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Edited by hansvons
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12 hours ago, hansvons said:

For me, my cameras are tools that must work as quickly and reliably as possible. I've solved that grip issue (which I find absolutely reasonable) with Velcro (also on the front side). Not pretty, but works great.

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Do you put the matching side of the velcro on your fingers?

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On 8/15/2023 at 8:41 PM, Huss said:

I find the Leica grip super handy.  Because ….roll of the drums… it provides a grip.  There is a reasom that pretty much every camera sold today has a built in grip, and built in grips started with the Nikon F3.

The Leica M is more beautiful w/o one, but also is essentially a smooth bar of soap w/o one.

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Huss, is there a space between the grip and the body? KEH had a 14405 for ninety bucks and I thought I would give it a try. My problem with other grips was I couldn't use the self timer on the M4 because the grip was in the way. The only one I had that would accommodate using the timer was a really ugly 3D printed one that I gave away. I had a 14405 a long time ago for my first M6 but don't remember the fit.

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I never cared for a grip on a Leica. I was taught the palm of the left hand was the main camera support so the right hand was free to operate the film wind and shutter. The habits carried over to digital. Learned to carry in the left hand with strap wrapped around the wrist. Bring it up, focus with the left fingers while the right advances film to make ready to shoot.

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7 hours ago, TomB_tx said:

I never cared for a grip on a Leica. I was taught the palm of the left hand was the main camera support so the right hand was free to operate the film wind and shutter. The habits carried over to digital. Learned to carry in the left hand with strap wrapped around the wrist. Bring it up, focus with the left fingers while the right advances film to make ready to shoot.

That’s great if you always shoot from viewfinder. A grip is handy for holding the camera in every other than eye level and finding the feels of holding straight for horizons, if the camera and lens combo is quite heavy. But these days I realized with the same lens my M4 weighs less 200 grams than my M10-P with hand + thumb grips, and I can hold the M4 without my wrist and arm getting sore. So I will forget about the grip.

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8 hours ago, madNbad said:

Huss, is there a space between the grip and the body? KEH had a 14405 for ninety bucks and I thought I would give it a try. My problem with other grips was I couldn't use the self timer on the M4 because the grip was in the way. The only one I had that would accommodate using the timer was a really ugly 3D printed one that I gave away. I had a 14405 a long time ago for my first M6 but don't remember the fit.

The only M that I have w a self timer is my M3.  And with that there is not enough room for the self timer to be used.  But the self timer shape is different between the M3 and M4. The M3 has a very cool, but raised, set of concentric circles at the top forming a knob.  It is that which causes interference.  See photo.  Of note, as another poster mentioned, there should be a small rubber bumper on the top inside of the grip that rests against the camera.  This provides solidity while still allowing clearance for easy attachment and removal of grip with baseplate when changing film.

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Thanks. I’ll try the one from KEH on the M4-2 and see if I like it. The grips always feel like they’re going to bend the tab on the baseplate when attaching it after loading the camera. I’m hoping the Leica version will be better.

Edited by madNbad
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