Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I want to switch to a rangefinder, M10 or M11. I want to use this for portrait photography. I've seen several YouTube movies and forums, but I'm not quite convinced yet whether a rangefinder is suitable for portrait photography. I understand that you have to focus through the patch, duplication has to become a whole. But how do I do that if I want to focus on the eye? Because there are only vertical lines on the patch. 
Are there examples of this and what is your experience and advice?

Thank you in advance 
 

 

 

Edited by Ronaldraw
Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!



You can focus on the eyes, you will see them in the patch. Not really a problem. You just have to be careful and move parallel to the focal plane when you recompose (especially with long lens and/or fast apertures). 

Best is to drop by a retailer and try… This will more informative than YouTube.

Edited by Aryel
  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Aryel said:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!



You can focus on the eyes, you will see them in the patch. Not really a problem. You just have to be careful and move parallel to the focal plane when you recompose (especially with long lens and/or fast apertures). 

Best is to drop by a retailer and try… This will more informative than YouTube.

Thank you for your information 

Link to post
Share on other sites

What if the range finder patch is to big for the eyes?

I understand its also possible to adjust the M amount to to 

The rangefinder patch can be to close or to far. I understand you can adjust this with a screwdriver by the M amount.

It makes a bit complicated if you want to do this

 

Edited by Ronaldraw
Link to post
Share on other sites

it works to fokus on eyes with a little "training". Its not as fast or accurate like a good face af though.

Personally I am fine with lenses like 50/2.0 - but lenses with super shallow dof like fast 75 or 90 mm I switch to the electronic EVF viewfinder.

So if you shoot a lot 75 or 90 mm portraits I might rather use an AF camera. But thats me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

vor 5 Minuten schrieb Ronaldraw:

Okey I See

I will use a 35 or maybe a 50mm but not more.

IMO it works fine. I use f2.0 or max f1.4 in this range and works ok.

If you have the chance, try a rangefinder camera before you buy - so you can get an idea.

Link to post
Share on other sites

With a Leica lens like the Summicron the RF accuracy is so good, it is always spot on. I have the v5 now. Similar for my 35mm Summicrons. My Canon lenses are also good.

I focus on the eyes, or the glasses. The closest that is. Sometimes the contour of the face which in practice is on the second eye but I prefer the closest one because the skin is natural. And moving just a bit with the head is a great tip I support too. When I started photography I stopped down quite often to F5.6 to ensure the result was good.

My wife likes to focus on my nose often though which gives a spectacular low key portrait. It does have a charm.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For 3/4 length and head and shoulders portraits with an M camera my method of focusing on the sitter’s eyes or the closest eye to the camera is to frame the composition exactly as I want it and initially slightly focus beyond the eye(s), then bring the eye(s) into sharp focus by carefully turning the turning focus ring back again.  I don’t use an evf on my M1-R but I often a 1.4x viewfinder magnifier on my film MP.

For fine-tuning focus, some  people use the ‘moving your head backwards and forwards method’, which is too hit or miss for me and can affect the composition, my method of fine tuning focus relies on keeping my head in the same position when I’m close to the sitter and using my eyes with a 50mm or longer lens set at full aperture.

Practice is the key, work on your preferred technique.

A recent street portrait I uploaded to the ‘People’ gallery yesterday,  taken on my M10-R with a 50mm summicron v5 set at full aperture, focused on the sitter’s eyes: 


 

 

Edited by Ouroboros
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think you have to fear IMO, because it easier than you might think. When you hit the exact focus, you will also see that the image in the patch suddenly increases in contrast.

Here is from the M10 user manual:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Ronaldraw said:

I want to switch to a rangefinder, M10 or M11. I want to use this for portrait photography. I've seen several YouTube movies and forums, but I'm not quite convinced yet whether a rangefinder is suitable for portrait photography. I understand that you have to focus through the patch, duplication has to become a whole. But how do I do that if I want to focus on the eye? Because there are only vertical lines on the patch. 
Are there examples of this and what is your experience and advice?

Thank you in advance 
 

 

 

It is a coincidence system. You don't need a line, vertical or otherwise, to make two structures coincide.

But, easy as it seems to be, there is a learning curve to using a rangefinder. Once mastered it is easier than AF, but before that it needs practice, practice, practice.

Out of curiosity, given that the essence of the M camera is the rangefinder system is the rangefinder and it is clearly not your motivation, why do you want to buy an M camera at all? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand, an M is a fantastic camera but one must take to it, otherwise it will be sold soon I would advise you to  rent one  for a while or buy/sell an M8 with a cheap 50 mm lens  before committing to the price of a small car. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Many years ago we used to take a lot of portraits at an Art School evening class. These were taken with my M3 and 90mm Summicron, usually at f2, focussed on the nearest eye. Copies of original darkroom prints.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...