Sick and tired of cold... colors.

[Ko.Fe.]

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After getting of last version of sensor, cover glass my M-E 220 started to do the same as many modern cameras seems to do with outdoor colors.

Just way too cold comparing to how I was seeing it. 

Tried in LR, not so good. Using DNG, but no luck to find adjustments which will take away this blue cast without side effects. 

Is here any successful ways to get warmer colors SOOC?

I have tried dial-in temperature in WB, but not sure which number I have to put. 

Would IR cut filter helps to get rid of cold colors shifts or is where any other on lens filters to make it looks as it should on golden hour, instead of all day blue?

[wizard]

Try 6600 K as the dial-in WB temperature. Works for me in sunny daylight conditions. 

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[jankap]

In LR under "Development" you should have a tweezer to set to neutral color somewhere. The tweezer is in the workbench at the right side and there at the top left.

Or as wizard writes, modify the temperature, but then still somewhat higher.

In the film age one would try a yellow filter. I have an R lens with built-in (not changeable🤨) daylight and artificial light filters.

[Ko.Fe.]

9 minutes ago, jankap said:

In LR under "Development" you should have a tweezer to set to neutral color somewhere. The tweezer is in the workbench at the right side and there at the top left.

Or as wizard writes, modify the temperature, but then still somewhat higher.

In the film age one would try a yellow filter. I have an R lens with built-in (not changeable🤨) daylight and artificial light filters.

Not sure what do you mean by tweezer. In LR where are two sliders for color and one eyedropper. I'm not good with sliders and almost never used eyedropper. Maybe I should give it a try, if I could get not blueish outdoors WB SOOC?

[Adam Bonn]

My M9 generally renders cooler than my m10

M9 in-camera WB isn't the best IMHO... (correcting from a whibal card in RAW under midday light sometimes makes 6500-7000k)

In LR/ACR I've noticed that the 'embedded' profile often renders cooler than the adobe standard one

But as suggested above, dialling in a high K number might help (and at least all the DNGs will have the same temp if you need to make adjustments later)

You could also try a split tone adjustment in LR 

something around this

   crs:SplitToningHighlightHue="17"
   crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation="2"

should be ballpark(ish)

If you haven't already you could try profiling your camera

Finally you could play with the camera calibration sliders in LR, negative green hue slider values is more yellow and red + saturation will make it warmer (M9 is quite red enough IMO, but it might work for you)

Just eyeballing it on the WB slider isn't a bad approach either! (I'm not joking)

Edited April 6, 2022 by Adam Bonn

[jankap]

25 minutes ago, Ko.Fe. said:

Not sure what do you mean by tweezer. In LR where are two sliders for color and one eyedropper. I'm not good with sliders and almost never used eyedropper. Maybe I should give it a try, if I could get not blueish outdoors WB SOOC?

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I mean with tweezer the thing just under the word "Behandlung. I can choose the snow, the tree or the green leave to be gray.

But I work with LR CS6, so perhaps in your version it could be different. Sorry, it is an eyedropper. 

Edited April 6, 2022 by jankap

[adan]

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Try using "CLOUDY" or "SHADE" for in-camera white balance, even in sunlight, if you are shooting jpegs. Those are basically "electronic 81A filters" of slightly different intensities and tints. But wizard's hint will be similar, and more flexible.

For jankap - that tool symbol has been known as an "eyedropper" for 25 years or more, since it "takes a sample" of the image, for a number of uses, depending on context.

https://www.discountvials.com/dropper-assembly-24-400-closure-7-x-108-mm/?sku=DR24400108-X-KDR-64&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIssXGl-T_9gIViWxvBB1GrglkEAQYBSABEgIptvD_BwE

Edited April 6, 2022 by adan

[Jeff S]

A ColorChecker Passport can be used for generating color profiles as well as white balancing. Can be used to augment LR.

Jeff

[Adam Bonn]

Try this. Quick and dirty profile that should be a little warmer... maybe you like it, maybe not. (Hard to profile creatively for someone else, plus I prefer cool images so harder to guess)

(It's single illuminant)

M9 Digital Camera M9 D55 (SG Target).dcp

[Adam Bonn]

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Standard profile on left, one I just made you on the right. No worries if you don't like it.

[Ko.Fe.]

1 hour ago, Adam Bonn said:

Try this. Quick and dirty profile that should be a little warmer... maybe you like it, maybe not. (Hard to profile creatively for someone else, plus I prefer cool images so harder to guess)

(It's single illuminant)

M9 Digital Camera M9 D55 (SG Target).dcp 1.05 MB · 0 downloads

Sorry, my LR is 6.0. I don't think it could import preset.

[Ko.Fe.]

3 hours ago, adan said:

Try using "CLOUDY" or "SHADE" for in-camera white balance, even in sunlight, if you are shooting jpegs. Those are basically "electronic 81A filters" of slightly different intensities and tints. But wizard's hint will be similar, and more flexible.

 

I have tried today, cloudy seems to give better results if sun is present. But what to do if it is cloudy for real?

[Adam Bonn]

22 minutes ago, Ko.Fe. said:

Sorry, my LR is 6.0. I don't think it could import preset.

it's not a preset it's a profile, that's compatible with all LR/ACR versions

12 minutes ago, Ko.Fe. said:

I have tried today, cloudy seems to give better results if sun is present. But what to do if it is cloudy for real?

If you want the convenience of in-camera WB, then I think you should just make a point of adding (say) approx +500k on the WB slider to whatever WB comes out of the camera.

Seriously, it's WB.. on the one hand it's precise measurement of the temperature of the light, but in another far more in real life way it's actually whatever you think looks good in the photo, just drag the WB slider towards yellow until it looks like crap, then back it off until doesn't. It's like 10 secs of work. Do it at the end because contrast/shadow adjustment changes the look of colours

Your other options involve moving house somewhere much further south 😅

[jankap]

On 4/6/2022 at 3:39 PM, Ko.Fe. said:

After getting of last version of sensor, cover glass my M-E 220 started to do the same as many modern cameras seems to do with outdoor colors.

Just way too cold comparing to how I was seeing it. 

Your camera has a new cover glass. Your pictures are somewhat blue. That means, that the cover glass acts as a blue filter. 

So you should generally set the camera to "somewhat less blue", that is the setting "cloudy". These things are very primitive. So set you camera to "cloudy".

If it is cloudy your pictures will be too blue, because the setting "very cloudy" fails. Then you correct that in LR. Somewhat higher temperature. Nothing special, trust us; cameras are dumb.

[jaapv]

On 4/6/2022 at 9:00 PM, Ko.Fe. said:

I have tried today, cloudy seems to give better results if sun is present. But what to do if it is cloudy for real?

Try the vibrance slider.

[jaapv]

On 4/6/2022 at 8:50 PM, Ko.Fe. said:

Sorry, my LR is 6.0. I don't think it could import preset.

That is obsolete, I fear. Postprocessing has come a long way since 2015. But you can save a preset as default, as you can import camera profiles. So your best option would be to get a ColorChecker Passport and create a camera profile using the Xrite software (free) Dead easy and a few minutes work.

[Ko.Fe.]

17 hours ago, jaapv said:

That is obsolete, I fear. Postprocessing has come a long way since 2015. But you can save a preset as default, as you can import camera profiles. So your best option would be to get a ColorChecker Passport and create a camera profile using the Xrite software (free) Dead easy and a few minutes work.

CCP came as part of award I got from international competition. But for some reason I didn't find using of LR and its own software easy.