Next M body to buy in 2022

[a.noctilux]

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Each time I see "remove your battery from MP",

I wonder why Leica have M-A AND MP in their film M offering, now.

Maybe they at Leica factory (and some of their customers) can see that or maybe those people are all blind.

 

Only me, I had done that "taking battery out from MP" so many times, but feeling that "trick" didn't replace M2/M4 complete framelines,

for example, so I prefer those older and cheaper M as M4-2/M4-P without meter and so smooth at front.

 

That time was pre M-A ...

 

I admit that for better handling, MP and M6 with battery flat cover in place of selftimer of older M4.

 

These are details but not essential for pictures.

Well as we know that there is no M perfect for everybody, advicing for one or another is only advices and opinions.

In the end I understand the existence of these Leica M which are all great films/images creating tools.

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[matted]

Here’s a nice cheap MP available. Just need to live without the meter and without frame lines for 28,50,75,90, and 135. 😂

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/284643617003

 

Joking aside, I’m actually considering buying it… would just have to keep it dedicated to my 35mm and 21 SEM. Just wish it had a .58 viewfinder. I have glasses so even 35mm on a .72 can be hard to see the whole frame for me. Good bad the meter is removed, but oh well… for all who wished for a BP M-A, here you go!

Edited February 11, 2022 by matted

[philipus]

I think we've all gone through similar slightly wavering decision-making processes more than once when picking cameras. I can only sympathise  I consider myself lucky that I only had to change once, from M3 to M6TTL, and then only add a second camera, M4, to be completely happy.

Ultimately the camera will have very little impact on the photos. It's the lenses that are important. Choice of camera will, however, naturally affect one's photographic workflow during the picture-taking. I'm thinking about the quality of the viewfinder, framelines and simplicity of loading the camera, for instance, and metering, of course. Plus, if one is so inclined, flash possibilities. Then there's that ephemeral build quality question that always looms large when discussing the old classics and newer models, and the alleged fear of electronics breaking never to be possible to repair again, which rears its head whenever cameras with electronics are debated.

I'm curious why you've added the TTL to the mix. It's quite distinct from the other two you're considering. Commonly the choice is between meter and no meter. But the TTL is different because it's capable of TTL flash. I use that feature A LOT on mine with the excellent SF24D. It's a true fire-and-forget-always-good-exposure system. Totally fool-proof (which is great for someone like me). There are Leica Puristas who complain about the fact that the body is a whopping 2 millimetres taller than the "real" Leica M bodies and that that awful monstrosity that dominates the top plate, the large shutter speed dial, is just too much to bear to ever consider this model.

It's all opinion of course, but it's truly a great camera. Still, I'm wondering how it fits into your decision-making equation. If you shoot or plan to shoot a lot with flash the TTL is easily the most capable, and simple, body. But if you only wish to use flash occasionally the other two are good enough since you can use flashes in manual or auto. That works great. I have any ancient little Panasonic thyristor flash that I use with my M4. It's easy enough - just approximate distance, set the aperture indicated on the scale (adjusting as necessary for film sensitivity) and shoot. Film is so forgiving that in almost all situations the results are great.

 

Everyone's different but I honestly wouldn't consider "build quality" as an aspect when choosing a film M body. Sure there can be differences in the "feel" of the film wind action between the early M models and later ones, but that's beside the point. All my humble opinion of course. You've got two classics already so if you want to feel that particular smoothness when winding on to the next frame use one of them.

So if it were up to me, I'd let hard facts make the choice, in particular which framelines do you need, do you want to have a meter and do you have any particular flash-related need.

Philip

 

On 2/10/2022 at 10:51 AM, cesc said:

Hi all! I am considering buying my "last" ( I need to believe that) M body, and I was considering btwn M6 TTL, MP or M-A. YEsterday I felt it was an M-A my final decision, today I am feeling more towards the MP... as you can see I am a bit in a mess of which is better for me. M6TTL is getting really pricy and for the money I can afford paying a bit more for a brand new MP or M-A...

I went to a camera shop and they told me that it's probably that in the next few years Leica is ending the MP, so I am not sure if that's a possibility and if that is something to have in mind,  before buying an MP body.

Also I would love to know your advices about MPs and M-As. Having now an M2 and M3... I am curious if I am going to feel a really improvement in quality construction and reliable M body. Has someone been is this situation?

 

Thanks for your replys! Have a nice day!

[ktmrider2]

Actually, I think there are enough mint used M2's, M3's, M4's etc that an MA is a waste of money.

 

[a.noctilux]

41 minutes ago, ktmrider2 said:

Actually, I think there are enough mint used M2's, M3's, M4's etc that an MA is a waste of money.

 

Cesc has already M2 and M3, human thing... just to see if grass is greener in other place.

post #1

"...Having now an M2 and M3... I am curious "

[cesc]

8 hours ago, philipus said:

I think we've all gone through similar slightly wavering decision-making processes more than once when picking cameras. I can only sympathise  I consider myself lucky that I only had to change once, from M3 to M6TTL, and then only add a second camera, M4, to be completely happy.

Ultimately the camera will have very little impact on the photos. It's the lenses that are important. Choice of camera will, however, naturally affect one's photographic workflow during the picture-taking. I'm thinking about the quality of the viewfinder, framelines and simplicity of loading the camera, for instance, and metering, of course. Plus, if one is so inclined, flash possibilities. Then there's that ephemeral build quality question that always looms large when discussing the old classics and newer models, and the alleged fear of electronics breaking never to be possible to repair again, which rears its head whenever cameras with electronics are debated.

I'm curious why you've added the TTL to the mix. It's quite distinct from the other two you're considering. Commonly the choice is between meter and no meter. But the TTL is different because it's capable of TTL flash. I use that feature A LOT on mine with the excellent SF24D. It's a true fire-and-forget-always-good-exposure system. Totally fool-proof (which is great for someone like me). There are Leica Puristas who complain about the fact that the body is a whopping 2 millimetres taller than the "real" Leica M bodies and that that awful monstrosity that dominates the top plate, the large shutter speed dial, is just too much to bear to ever consider this model.

It's all opinion of course, but it's truly a great camera. Still, I'm wondering how it fits into your decision-making equation. If you shoot or plan to shoot a lot with flash the TTL is easily the most capable, and simple, body. But if you only wish to use flash occasionally the other two are good enough since you can use flashes in manual or auto. That works great. I have any ancient little Panasonic thyristor flash that I use with my M4. It's easy enough - just approximate distance, set the aperture indicated on the scale (adjusting as necessary for film sensitivity) and shoot. Film is so forgiving that in almost all situations the results are great.

 

Everyone's different but I honestly wouldn't consider "build quality" as an aspect when choosing a film M body. Sure there can be differences in the "feel" of the film wind action between the early M models and later ones, but that's beside the point. All my humble opinion of course. You've got two classics already so if you want to feel that particular smoothness when winding on to the next frame use one of them.

So if it were up to me, I'd let hard facts make the choice, in particular which framelines do you need, do you want to have a meter and do you have any particular flash-related need.

Philip

 

I was asking about the M6 TTL (not because of the TTL actually) but because it has a meter and it's cheaper than an MP or an MA, even that I think it has become really overpriced. So I was just including M6, more because the price range was near the MP or MA that's all.

[cesc]

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2 hours ago, ktmrider2 said:

Actually, I think there are enough mint used M2's, M3's, M4's etc that an MA is a waste of money.

 

So you would go for a MP?

[cesc]

1 hour ago, a.noctilux said:

Cesc has already M2 and M3, human thing... just to see if grass is greener in other place.

post #1

"...Having now an M2 and M3... I am curious "

Arnaud we don't know each other, but I have the feeling you know me quite a bit. I have to follow your advices and stay with my actual gear, and invest in different lenses, that that is actually what makes the photo

[Fjäll]

Choosing between the two from a practical standpoint makes the least sense IMO. Unless the meter is a critical factor. Since you're considering either of the two current offerings from Leica you're a bit of a perfectionist in aesthetics otherwise a Leica M4-P will do. Get the one you think looks better. The M-A does not have a battery cover, lacks the silver border on the bottom of the viewfinder on the MP and has the protruding ISO dial. The MP will likely not brass significantly unless you use it constantly for years or fake it. The prices of either model will surge after their future discontinuation.

Edited February 12, 2022 by Fjäll

[raizans]

I would sell the M2 and M3, then buy an M-A and an MP. =D

[a.noctilux]

12 minutes ago, raizans said:

I would sell the M2 and M3, then buy an M-A and an MP. =D

I did not sell M2 or M3 or other M to fund M-A or MP.

Strange that when I wanted the first Monochrom, I trade with a friend my last MP without hesitation plus more money (of course, MM1 was very expensive).

At that moment, I had M-A waiting for the second,  planned to "replace" all my old film Ms for use untill I would not be able to hold one M.

 

2 hours ago, cesc said:

Arnaud we don't know each other, but I have the feeling you know me quite a bit. I have to follow your advices and stay with my actual gear, and invest in different lenses, that that is actually what makes the photo

In your place, I'd buy one M-A or MP,  while/when possible, new or sh ...but keep M2/M3 if you can 😉

[Huss]

8 hours ago, ktmrider2 said:

Actually, I think there are enough mint used M2's, M3's, M4's etc that an MA is a waste of money.

 

My M-A is tighter and smoother than my M3 and M4.  Guess because it is not 40+ years old..

[Huss]

On 2/11/2022 at 5:23 AM, matted said:

Here’s a nice cheap MP available. Just need to live without the meter and without frame lines for 28,50,75,90, and 135. 😂

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/284643617003

 

Joking aside, I’m actually considering buying it… would just have to keep it dedicated to my 35mm and 21 SEM. Just wish it had a .58 viewfinder. I have glasses so even 35mm on a .72 can be hard to see the whole frame for me. Good bad the meter is removed, but oh well… for all who wished for a BP M-A, here you go!

For the same money you can buy an unmolestered M-A.  There is one on fredmiranda.com for sale.

[250swb]

On 2/11/2022 at 1:23 PM, matted said:

Here’s a nice cheap MP available. Just need to live without the meter and without frame lines for 28,50,75,90, and 135. 😂

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/284643617003

 

Joking aside, I’m actually considering buying it… would just have to keep it dedicated to my 35mm and 21 SEM. Just wish it had a .58 viewfinder. I have glasses so even 35mm on a .72 can be hard to see the whole frame for me. Good bad the meter is removed, but oh well… for all who wished for a BP M-A, here you go!

It seems like it wasn't somebody's 'forever camera' after all, and maybe a lesson in 'just because you can do it doesn't mean you have to do it'. But anyway here are the the origins of it

https://www.rangefinderforum.com/node/100907

of note is the noticeable lack of wear between 2010 to today, a testament maybe to how great an idea it wasn't.

 

Edited February 13, 2022 by 250swb

[Danner]

IMHO, a 9+ condition M6 classic is the way to go.  They are out they're out there, and great M cameras.

[madNbad]

Buy a M-A. The only way Leica will keep making them is if customers keep buying them. 

[ianman]

On 2/12/2022 at 6:57 PM, ktmrider2 said:

Actually, I think there are enough mint used M2's, M3's, M4's etc that an MA is a waste of money.

 

Unless the OP needs the extra framelines.

[Danner]

On 2/13/2022 at 8:23 AM, Danner said:

IMHO, a 9+ condition M6 classic is the way to go.  They are out they're out there, and great M cameras.

Holy mackerel!  In need Grammerly® real bad, LOL.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[cesc]

well, finally I've decided for an MP black paint. It's arriving tomorrow, so photos of the camera coming tomorrow! Thanks all for your comments and advices, I felt I need to update you a bit!

[Jeff S]

Post #29 + post #40 = GAS.  (I anticipate another thread on lens choice.)

Not that there’s anything wrong with that. 🙂

Jeff