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13 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Partly the technique - the select sky tool has settings - probably the feathering was set too wide.

Not the full story.

The rudimentary masking only takes the outline of an element within the image, it does not see any deeper than that.  You can clearly see how inside the tree branches where the ‘sky’ behind has almost the original tonal value of the non retouched image.  
Tbh, no film photographer worth their salt and who takes pride in their photography would even bother with this. 


 

Edited by Ouroboros
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2 hours ago, jaapv said:

Not really.... That would mean a large amount of dodging and burning. It was - and is - far more effective to use a red filter - with superior results too.

Allow me to disagree. Not all photos work the same, but for relatively clean horizons, it's a very easy  single burn that doesn't even need a real mask: just use a sheet of paper.

I use filters all the time. The most effective way to get a really dark sky in camera is CPL+deep red filter, maybe a graduated ND on top (or in place of the CPL) too. However the overly dramatic, inky black skies that I see posted around are almost always done in the darkroom, regardless of filtration in camera which might exist or not. There's no easy way to get super dark skies with colour filtration alone, at least not without it being more hassle than a simple burn. The only time I got close was with IR film and a 720nm filter. 

In any case, that was not my main point but a tangent. My main point is that colour filtration is a very useful tool with B&W film that extends far beyond the darkening of skies.

Edited by giannis
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On 2/4/2022 at 2:10 AM, bags27 said:

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I can see the photoshopping halo round the sky.

I will keep using orange/red filters with film and printing in the darkroom, as well as using dense red filters with infrared film.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Select sky/subject tool, as well many other automation tools are good for 90% of job done, but you need to spend some time to make it 100% perfect. They are not intended to be used without manual intervention (at least not yet). And that requires some skill and time. So, even this example in the OP could be done better, but it requires manual brushing/masking around the branches and other subjects, level adjustments, curves etc. Maybe it don't have all details as if it was done using the red filter on the lens, but that's the matter of the exposure, not Photoshop.

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