Film simulation – open thread

[costa43]

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low quality film look. M10r and 35mm Summilux pre asph

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[costa43]

low quality film look. M10r and 35mm Summilux pre asph

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[01maciel]

M10 + Zeiss Distagon T* 1.4/35 ZM @f/1.4 + Rollei Retro 80s

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Edited March 23 by 01maciel

[suff3li]

Crooked.

M10, 28mm Cron V2, RNI Kodak E200.

 

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[evikne]

49 minutes ago, suff3li said:

Crooked.

M10, 28mm Cron V2, RNI Kodak E200.

 

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Thanks, but are you sure you uploaded the correct version of your image? The right image below shows how it looks in my LR with the RNI Kodak E200 profile assigned:

[suff3li]

1 hour ago, evikne said:

Thanks, but are you sure you uploaded the correct version of your image? The right image below shows how it looks in my LR with the RNI Kodak E200 profile assigned:

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Hmm. Yup, I'm sure, but it does look different for some reason 🤔

[evikne]

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1 hour ago, suff3li said:

Hmm. Yup, I'm sure, but it does look different for some reason 🤔

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That was very strange. I had to check what it looked like in my LR. I only tested it on a jpg file though, but I don't think it should make that much difference.

Edited March 26 by evikne

[evikne]

21 minutes ago, suff3li said:

Hmm. Yup, I'm sure, but it does look different for some reason 🤔

BTW, what does your RNI version look like compared to the Adobe Standard or Adobe Color profile?

[suff3li]

11 minutes ago, evikne said:

BTW, what does your RNI version look like compared to the Adobe Standard or Adobe Color profile?

Here is a before with Adobe color profile on import and After with RNI E200 

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[costa43]

Developed a new one for the sl2s. I much prefer a 24mp sensor for this type of look

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[evikne]

25 minutes ago, suff3li said:

Here is a before with Adobe color profile on import and After with RNI E200 

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Thank you! I see now there is a difference, but the effect seems to be stronger on the jpg than the dng. And now I understand why: Of course, I forgot that the profile amount on the jpg file comes on top of the other and is "doubled". 😉 

Edited March 26 by evikne

[Yugen]

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Leica Sl2-s + SR 35 Summilux and Adobe Neural Filters 

[evikne]

RNI Kodak E100G v2

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M10, 50mm Summilux pre-ASPH v3

[brickftl]

On 1/22/2023 at 4:55 PM, evikne said:

Thanks! My RNI workflow is very simple. I first do most of the ordinary editing, then I just put the RNI profile on top, like icing on a cake. I have about 30 favorite profiles that I browse through while previewing them. When I find one I like, I select it and continue browsing through the favorite collection. I can compare with the Alt key, or by moving the mouse on an off the preview thumbnails. If I find one I like better than the first one, I select this, and so on. Sometimes I go through one or more full collections with negative, slide or B&W films this way. I use All Films 5 Pro for LR.

can you help me understand? When I do initial edits in Camera Raw, if I then select a preset, it wipes out much of those edits and replaces them with settings of the preset. You process seems to keep your edits but then add aspects of the preset to it? I'm confused 

[brickftl]

On 9/15/2023 at 5:42 AM, grahamc said:

Hello.

As a hybrid shooter I developed some quite quick Lightroom steps to give my digital images a more analogue look, for consistency across my images.  Since then I received some nice comments in the forum or "which film was this shot on" questions for digital images.  So I thought FWIW I'd place some instruction here as it's really not many steps.

Thanks @Steven, @evikne, @lifeandmylens for the feedback and suggestion . 

Not claiming this is brilliant of course or wishing to open a debate about whether some of this is good (!), just responding to nice feedback and it works for me with my kit.

So, I do all of these pretty much as standard on any digital image, in this order (or bulk via a preset) and don't deviate much fro it these days since it was a PITA experimenting to get to it :

1. Lens Choice.

First of all, Lens make a big difference, I've found I get the most analogue look as a starting point from the following lenses:

35mm (in order of preference if I'm trying to get a film look):

• 35:2 v1 
• 35:1.4 v1 or 2

50mm (in order of pref.)

• 50:v3 
• 50:1.4 v3

You will have your own I'm sure. 

1. Presets/Profiles.

I use Lightroom. I have tried many and most are a complete waste of time and money.  I use RNI, The Classic Presets & the new Cobalt 'Elite' Portra profiles (of which the P800 is absolutely brilliant). It's not a one-size-fits all and I often hover over each preset in my collection until I find one that suits the particular image I'm working on.  That can be trial and error of hovering over 30+ profiles but this is important as it's very much an image-by-image thing not one profile fits all.  In saying that I do have ones I use far more most often than others and they are Kodak E 200(RNI), the new Cobalt 'Elite' Portra 800, Kodak Gold 200 v3 (RNI - although has a green cast), Fuji 400H (RNI) and Agfa Optima 200 v4.  The RNI Porta ones are also OK but need tuning down in strength to 70.  The new Cobalt Porta is way better than RNI and is extremely impressive.  

Once selected a profile I generally turn down the strength slider for the profile to between 70-85 strength or it tends to look fake .   There are occasions when I'll run with 90-100 strength usually with Kodak E 200   

Once applied, set a white balance that you like for the look you are after - again no rule of thumb for what temp suits which profile, it's very much on an image by image basis. 

2. Tone Curve.

Once a suitable profile is applied, I saved some custom tone curves that I felt take the edge off the digital image, and saved them as 'Light' , 'Medium' and 'Strong' Strength.  All they really are is the 'Linear', 'Medium' and 'Strong' contrast curves from the Lightroom drop down, with some very minor tweaks.  They each also alter the black point a little, which I think works well and rarely change after adding the curve - eg the lighter one has the lightest black point.  You can get them here:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/sxee28mknqjbqgtusmrbs/h?rlkey=woufz8i7d09kq1irvjvs494ja&dl=0

Grab them if you want them as I'm constantly changing my Dropbox locations they may disappear. 

3. Colour Tweak via. a saved pre-set.

I can't be bothered tweaking colour for every photo but I hit a 'Analogue Green and Blue' preset that I made, which shifts the Green and Blue colour channels to the following settings:

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I sometimes bring the green channel back to be closer to zero, or move the blue from -10 to -5 , depending on how things are looking. 

4. Add Grain 

I  got to some grain settings that I felt were a good match for Portra 400 , as viewed side by side with a Portra scan.  Again saved as preset so it's just one click. Here are the settings for that one, under the 'Effects' tab :

 

5. Sharpness.  I rarely add sharpness but if I do it's only slightly to 12 or 15. And I use the 'masking slider' to between 75-100 so that only a small part of the image (usually the focal point) is sharpened.
6. Add Vignette

Finally I add a very light vignette , again with a preset and the settings to create it are here :

7. Tweaks to taste .

Of course after that (or before) it's just the usual tweaks like highlight adjustment, shadows, but I'm pretty light on all of that because creating a HDR looking image is the fastest giveaway to a digital image. 

I find a reduction in contrast can help at the stage also, depending on the lens. 

8. The End 

So quite simple and I think a lot of it is in the lens choice TBH - I've tried this on more modern lenses eg even the 35:2 KOB which is not exactly clinical, and on those occasions it hasn't been half has successful.  So I tend to use the KOB on film now and the lenses I've mentioned above on Digital. 

Hope it's useful 

Cheers

G 
 

oh boy, I've got A LOT TO LEARN from you and Ernst among others in this thread. 

you forgot to mention something else - your and Ernst's photos are fabulous to start with!

[evikne]

24 minutes ago, brickftl said:

can you help me understand? When I do initial edits in Camera Raw, if I then select a preset, it wipes out much of those edits and replaces them with settings of the preset. You process seems to keep your edits but then add aspects of the preset to it? I'm confused 

Unlike presets, profiles don't change any settings you have done; they leave all sliders as they are. So I just put the RNI profile "on top" of the other edits, and usually do very little changes after that. You can also adjust the amount of the profile effect with a slider. I have explained the difference a bit further on the first page in this thread (post #14).

Edited March 29 by evikne

[grahamc]

22 minutes ago, brickftl said:

oh boy, I've got A LOT TO LEARN from you and Ernst among others in this thread. 

you forgot to mention something else - your and Ernst's photos are fabulous to start with!

Thankyou !   Like anything, once you get into this you’ll find you have some go to settings that you are using often.  You can consider saving them as a preset as a starting point  

Edited March 29 by grahamc

[brickftl]

On 6/11/2022 at 8:32 AM, evikne said:

RNI Fuji Pro 160ns v4

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M10 / 50mm Summilux pre-ASPH (E46)

it's really hard to pick my favorite RNI preset, but I'm thinking it's a toss-up between this one and RNI Kodak Gold 800.

But I do like how you've used all the presets in pics you've posted in this thread.

[brickftl]

I'm weirdly liking infrared.

RSI Infrared Aerochrome 11

 

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Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[brickftl]

RNI Kodachrome Generic

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