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Focus peaking & contrast


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On 12/16/2019 at 7:42 AM, pebbles said:

This focus peaking at full aperture is one of the things I like about the CL. You can focus through the DOF until it settles at full peaking in the area you want. Eg. one head in a crowd, one tree in a forest.

I love that too, until I see the resulting images.

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12 hours ago, ramarren said:

Well, then, you're doing something wrong. Learn what the peaking indicates, then practice. There are no other solutions. 

I find focus peaking to have a negative impact - without it I can see better what is in focus and what is not. With it on, it is harder to see the details in the image. Focus peaking makes me feel good by indicating in the viewfinder that stuff is in focus, but it's far too liberal - on review, lots of the stuff it identified is actually out of focus. 

I don't think I'm doing anything wrong - it's the same with all the cameras I've used it on, Sony and Leica. 

Edited by gotium
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12 hours ago, gotium said:

I find focus peaking to have a negative impact - without it I can see better what is in focus and what is not. With it on, it is harder to see the details in the image. Focus peaking makes me feel good by indicating in the viewfinder that stuff is in focus, but it's far too liberal - on review, lots of the stuff it identified is actually out of focus. 

I don't think I'm doing anything wrong - it's the same with all the cameras I've used it on, Sony and Leica. 

Focus peaking is simply a tool. It highlights the maximum contrast edges in the image field. It's up to you to determine whether what is highlighted indicates actual best focus. 

Yes, in many circumstances I find focus peaking gets in the way. That's when I turn it off. It works best when the lens being used has good contrast at the particular aperture you're using to view the scene with, and when the subject has useful edge texture to gauge the value of the edge detection with. I use it in other circumstances to get a rough estimate of where my focus zone is, which is what it was designed to do for motion capture ... It was not intended to be a tool for precision critical focusing. 

If you don't find it gets what you want done, either you've not learned how to interpret the display it provides or it is inappropriate for the lens and scene you're using it on. IN either case, and if you don't like it, just turn it off and don't worry about it. 

Focus assist magnification is a better tool for achieving critical focus in most cases. It has its limitations too, and requires that you develop techniques and skills for its use. It also is inappropriate in some situations. 

An any cameras... :D

G

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