Dr. G Posted December 19, 2017 Share #21 Posted December 19, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) I should have mentioned that I’m shooting the SL with thr RRS bottom plate. It’s a great first and makes the camera more comfortable for me to hold. I agree also that the balance with the 50 and 24-90 is exceptional. I agree as well. I originally had the SL and the 50mm APO Summicron-M. As soon as I tried the Summilux-50 I knew that would be the lens I would be using. It feels so much more balanced on the camera. I ended up getting the 24-90 as well and it, too, handles exceptionally well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 19, 2017 Posted December 19, 2017 Hi Dr. G, Take a look here Haptics and ergonomics of the SL. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
lx1713 Posted December 19, 2017 Share #22 Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) Of the 17000 or so exposures I've made with the SL, I think 36 were made with flash ... and none of them 'on camera', none of them with auto-flash of any kind. When I use flash, I use a simple RF trigger and have the flash off camera, set to a manual power output. I never use any ambient auto exposure modes with flash either ... the results have always been too inconsistent, regardless of what camera system I was using, so I just set the camera up by the kind of traditional exposure evaluation that's listed in my 1968 Kodak Master Photo Guide. It always works perfectly, AND with the SL I can do a test pop or two to ensure that it's correct before I do my shoot. I like to keep it simple. "none of them with auto-flash of any kind" - Surely life's perspective can be different when you have options "When I use flash, I use a simple RF trigger and have the flash off camera, set to a manual power output" - My editor would have fried me if I did that chasing politicos but I won't deny your choice That's the power to create beautiful light when you should. Even chasing politicos. "I never use any ambient auto exposure modes with flash either ... the results have always been too inconsistent" - too true which is why I work with manual even when light is extreme. Rotating two dials to set disparate exposures is surely better than dealing in post. The SL is slow in this regard compared with my 1D particularly in dialing in ISO change. Can't do aperture, shutter speed and ISO change under 6 seconds. Even slower with the SF64. "so I just set the camera up by the kind of traditional exposure evaluation that's listed in my 1968 Kodak Master Photo Guide" - hard to do that indoors with artificial light sources with differing colour temperatures but that's a really convenient reminder for the outdoors. Works. Particularly when mirrorless evf can be a little deceiving at times. I'm getting the hang of it though. (I'm actually new to mirrorless game, the SL is my first mirrorless ) "SL I can do a test pop or two to ensure that it's correct before I do my shoot" - That's true of any digital camera but I get what you mean. It's those times when test pops are a luxury commodity where the light blindsides you as the perfect action moment starts. Capture first. recalibrate for seconds, when all is lost, Photoshop LIfe's beautiful with digital. "I like to keep it simple. :D" - Glad we agree with one another Flash is a complexity I deal with, not fight. The SL is really great when you don't need flash but I'm hired to deliver images so flash is sometimes needed because not all clients appreciate available light that's beautiful in every regard except on their subject. Or worse ugly light. Edited December 19, 2017 by lx1713 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted December 20, 2017 Share #23 Posted December 20, 2017 I worked the same way with flash when I was a photographer for hire doing event, editorial portraiture, etc. You know, in 50+ years of doing photography, I never once timed how quickly I could set exposure, ISO, or anything else. I just did it as needed and didn't worry about the time. Like you, regardless of what I needed to do, I just did it: figured my way through whatever morass there might be, and got my results. I no longer do work for hire, so whatever the pressures on you ... while I empathize, they're no longer relevant to what I do. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lx1713 Posted December 20, 2017 Share #24 Posted December 20, 2017 I no longer do work for hire, so whatever the pressures on you ... while I empathize, they're no longer relevant to what I do. I'm not far from retiring actually but I couldn't resist testing the waters of shooting video and stills in a documentative fashion for clients I care for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lx1713 Posted December 20, 2017 Share #25 Posted December 20, 2017 I never once timed how quickly I could set exposure, ISO, or anything else. I just did it as needed and didn't worry about the time. I worry about time and workflow because that's how I'm wired. I only do this when comparing systems to adopt. The last time I did it was with the 1DIII and M8 (With a Sinar it's never a time and workflow issue, so I don't worry about it). So once it's in my system, I don't worry about time. It takes me about 2 years to really know a system so I like to take certain steps to be a little objective. Honestly, it's because you are honed in practice to the point that you can do what what's needed and not worry about time. You probably forgot the pain Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sillbeers15 Posted December 20, 2017 Share #26 Posted December 20, 2017 Of the 17000 or so exposures I've made with the SL, I think 36 were made with flash ... and none of them 'on camera', none of them with auto-flash of any kind. When I use flash, I use a simple RF trigger and have the flash off camera, set to a manual power output. I never use any ambient auto exposure modes with flash either ... the results have always been too inconsistent, regardless of what camera system I was using, so I just set the camera up by the kind of traditional exposure evaluation that's listed in my 1968 Kodak Master Photo Guide. It always works perfectly, AND with the SL I can do a test pop or two to ensure that it's correct before I do my shoot. I like to keep it simple. I also use off camera flash whenever I see the need to fill in light on my subject to create more depth and contrast in the pics whenever natural light becomes unfavourable for me to create such a pics. However with Leica slow in offering TTL/HSS triggering solution (which Leica said it will offer a solution to us for off camera trigger to support off camera TTL/HSS flash), I have managed to successfully explore the possibility of triggering off camera manual flash above the 1/180 sec sync speed using PW Plus IIIs and setting manual flash to 1/1 full power (not getting the black band to appear in focal plane shutter cameras such as the digital Ms & SLs). I'll experiment and share my findings on the relationship with the level of manual flash power against shutter speeds (above sync speed) in coming week during the Christmas season. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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