First year Leica Standard 1e With Vulcanite Slippage

[mickjazz]

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I bought a quite early standard 102563 in really nice shape except for some of the vulcanite slipped to the left of the mount facing the camera. No paint chips, perfect lettering, no brassing and no missing vulcanite which is still jet black.

 

I'm far from skilled at being able to tell which vulcanite pattern goes with what year. It is possible that it is not original but not yet having it in hand, hard to tell but sure doesn't look like modern plastic strip covers like aki-asahi etc. Looks too thick.

 

So here's the question; stabilize it and live with the slight couple mm nax max gap near the mount or replace it?

 

It is quite nice although I actually bought it for the nickel black rim attached to it, long a weak spot for me. Will send pix later. I'm inclined to keep it original.

[david strachan]

Wasn't the early vulcanite baked onto the body?

It tended to chip, rather than move.

 

But I'm not sure. 

 

...

Edited November 11, 2017 by david strachan

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[mickjazz]

In time the vulcanite can shrink. You often see it below is the lens mount with a gap.

[jerzy]

Wasn't the early vulcanite baked onto the body?

It tended to chip, rather than move.

 

But I'm not sure. 

 

...

this was for later cameras, from fifties. This camera has vulcanite glued. If shrinkage is not too much, it might be possibly reglued and a bit extended so that the gap could disappear. Some time ago I posted pdf with hints and tips re vulcanite repair. Whenever you'll get the camera check if vulcanite still sticks, if glue is still fine. Glue used at that time was based on resin, with the time it tends to loosen. In such case regluing would be reccomended, especially if the camera is in very good shape.

In my opinion genuine is genuine, eventhough might have a gap. Modern vulcanite replacement is replacement only. And I am not sure if Aki has replacement with appropriate structure/pattern.

[willeica]

this was for later cameras, from fifties. This camera has vulcanite glued. If shrinkage is not too much, it might be possibly reglued and a bit extended so that the gap could disappear. Some time ago I posted pdf with hints and tips re vulcanite repair. Whenever you'll get the camera check if vulcanite still sticks, if glue is still fine. Glue used at that time was based on resin, with the time it tends to loosen. In such case regluing would be reccomended, especially if the camera is in very good shape.

In my opinion genuine is genuine, eventhough might have a gap. Modern vulcanite replacement is replacement only. And I am not sure if Aki has replacement with appropriate structure/pattern.

 

I agree with Jerzy. I would just put glue, carefully and in small amounts, under where the vulcanite is lifting. I have done that with a number of cameras from that period. As for what is the correct vulcanite for that period, it is very difficult top say. Early production Leica cameras, lenses, accessories and cases etc were subject to a lot of variation. For example, some say that camera covering from that era which is subject to going brown or greenish in colour is actually leather, but I have not seen proof to this effect. I am not going to start messing around with examples in my collection in order to find out. 

 

William

Edited November 11, 2017 by willeica

[wlaidlaw]

My view is if the vulcanite cover is going to look scruffy, replace it. I favour embossed black leather as this ages better than modern synthetic materials and its appearance is more in keeping with a classic camera. I have given up on Cameraleather.com due to having been sent the wrong item and complete lack of communications since, so I am out of pocket. I now use either Aki-Asahi or Hugo Studio, both of whom provide first class service. I have tried to restore the vulcanite on my grandfather's model II as it was complete and non-shrunken but had gone a horrible blotchy army camouflage colour. I cleaned it very thoroughly with automotive leather/vinyl cleaner and then treated it with black shoe wax. It is hugely improved but I must buy some of the Simoniz product for restoring the appearance of tyres to complete the job and get it truly black again https://www.amazon.co.uk/Simoniz-SAPP0105A-Trim-Restorer-Black/dp/B00VRUR0WS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510402048&sr=8-2&keywords=simoniz+tyre+restorer 

 

Wilson

[mickjazz]

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I agree with keeping the original. It most likely can be reglued. I have done it on others without problems. It's when the vulcanite becomes dry and brittle that it's tricky. Leica iiic step models seem to nearly always have brittle vulcanite that will break like eggshell.

 

Currently Aki does not carry model 1 replacements. For a model 1 I bought a nice cover from a guy in Texas selling on ebay. About $25. Fits perfectly.

[earleygallery]

http://www.angelfire.com/biz/Leica/vulcanite.html

[wlaidlaw]

Hugostudio does various material covers for both 1A and 1C models, both synthetic and natural. I will post a picture tomorrow of my 1C Standard recovered in their Moroccan leather. 

 

Wilson

[wlaidlaw]

Here is a photo of my 1C with HugoStudio Morocco leather. 

 

Wilson

 

 

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[willeica]

Thanks Wilson. Most collectors are looking, where possible, for cameras in original condition. I try to buy cameras where the condition is original as far as possible. That does not stop me from occasionally buying cameras which have been re-covered. My two earliest I Model As from 1926 had both been re-covered when I bought them. If they still had their original covering I probably would have had to pay much more for them. I have never had a camera re-covered and so far I only have little pieces of vulcanite missing on a few cameras. If the cover started to lift and was not repairable I would probably get a covering like the one shown above to match the original covering as far as possible.

 

Nice to see that you are using a VALOO with this. Originally intended for darkroom work, it allows aperture to changed more easily than with the more common FISON hood.

 

William

Edited November 12, 2017 by willeica

[wlaidlaw]

Thanks Wilson. Most collectors are looking, where possible, for cameras in original condition. I try to buy cameras where the condition is original as far as possible. That does not stop me from occasionally buying cameras which have been re-covered. My two earliest I Model As from 1926 had both been re-covered when I bought them. If they still had their original covering I probably would have had to pay much more for them. I have never had a camera re-covered and so far I only have little pieces of vulcanite missing on a few cameras. If the cover started to lift and was not repairable I would probably get a covering like the one shown above to match the original covering as far as possible.

 

Nice to see that you are using a VALOO with this. Originally intended for darkroom work, it allows aperture to changed more easily than with the more common FISON hood.

 

William

 

Some odd person had painted the Vulkanit of the 1C with black nail varnish - not a good look, so no alternative but to recover. I have never been a big fan of Vulkanit but as I understand it, Leica was trying to avoid the notorious Zeiss/Ikon/Contax bumps, which were caused by the tanning products in the period leather, reacting with the metal body. Today's leather is neutral and does not react with the metal. 

 

Wilson

Edited November 12, 2017 by wlaidlaw

[vickersdc]

I've just sent my 1937 Leica II off for a CLA to Newton Ellis - but one of the main reasons it went to them was because the vulcanite had started to lift away from around the lens mount. Fortunately it was not broken - they've said they can lift the vulcanite enough to slide some glue underneath then gently warm the vulcanite up in order to stick it back down again.

 

So, to the OP, I'd say keep it as original as possible and get it sorted out

[jerzy]

regluing vulcanite is not so difficult, can be made with tools which everyone has in husehold (hairdryer, cleaning solvent). However the body shell shall be removed from the camera. In most of cases like described I am removing complete vulcanite, clean and reglue