Jump to content

Sekonic L-208 - Any good? Especially in Incident mode ...


Collieslave

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

This year I returned to Leicas (IIIf & IIIG) after many years of medium format (6x6 slides: slides with Leicas as well). I have used a Sekonic L-508 spot/incident meter for a long time but I'm looking for a small, reliable meter to save lugging the 508 around (it's nearly as big as my Leicas!). After a lot of looking, reading and thinking I have rejected two possible contenders, the Gossen Digisix and the Voigtlander VC2, for a variety of reasons and am thinking seriously of the L-208. I take landscapes almost exclusively and wonder how this little meter would cope: is the tiny lumisphere up to the job, for example? I enjoy using the 508, enabling me to take a selection of readings, both incident and spot, and I like the averaging function. Obviously the 208 is a completely different animal! I'd welcome views, especially from those using the 208 - or those who have tried it and rejected it, come to that! Many thanks for any comments!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Collieslave, I have been using the 208 for some time now to double check my exposure estimates (if I feel the need). Works well, not the highest quality and tends to accumulate pocket lint. It is easy to disassemble and clean if you are careful and can do that sort of thing. I have checked the incident readings with a Lumu Power, another Sekonic meter and with an iPhone app and they seem to all line up well. It is possible that my requirements are different from yours, of course.

 

My wishlist would be: not so thick and a higher quality construction, completely sealed, all settings to stay put unless I change them etc...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not the 308? It's small, affordable, reliable and very accurate.

Agreed, of course, but I am attracted to a non-digital reading (a bit like my Weston meters of decades ago!) giving all the exposure possibilities at the same time, and the 208 is very small (granted thicker than the 308) making a bit of a change from my 508!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Digital meters like the 308 don't provide an at a glance view of all the exposure combinations, you usually have to press a button or something. Also, the 308 is 80% taller, 50% wider, less than 10% thinner and weighs 2.5 times as much. My 208 is still on it's original battery (in tolerance) after over two years of ownership.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Digital meters like the 308 don't provide an at a glance view of all the exposure combinations, you usually have to press a button or something...

Pressing a button, the horror.

 

The parameters for exposure are so simple, once we have a readout for, say, 125th at f5.6, surely we're capable of working out that's also 250th at 4 without another button press. I can see the attraction of the 208 in a steampunk sort of a way, but the 308 is so accurate, simple and compact that it's a compelling alternative.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Digital meters like the 308 don't provide an at a glance view of all the exposure combinations, you usually have to press a button or something. Also, the 308 is 80% taller, 50% wider, less than 10% thinner and weighs 2.5 times as much. My 208 is still on it's original battery (in tolerance) after over two years of ownership.

Agree with David.

It's good to have an analogue glance at the various combinations.

Very light, means feeling nothing in the pocket, and a streamlined shape.

Mine is still on it's first battery too.

 

...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have purchased an L-208 and am very pleased with it. I undertook a series of comparative readings with the L-208 (both reflected and incident) and my L-508 spot/incident meter. The results confirm that, despite its small size, the L-208 is an accurate meter and just what I wanted! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bought my L-208 some five years ago & it is in regular use with my IIIg ( + my Rollleicord Vb, Fuji GW690 & Hasselblad 500C). Very pocketable, extremely lightweight and gives me very accurate readings judging by the resulting negatives & transparencies.  Press the button, turn the dial, quick look at the EV window - job done!  Oh, & it is still on the original battery.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Everybody,

 

When discussing various meters it might be helpful to include the sensitivity range of the meter being recommended when the meter is set at an ISO of 100/21

 

Most handy would be the shutter speed in seconds, or fractions of seconds, with the lens set to F1.4 at the low light level & at F16 in the high light level.

 

Or EV numbers range, if that is what the meter reads in. Setting the meter at ISO100/21

 

Also the readings in Incident or/& Reflected Light.

 

Keeping in mind that since an EV of 0 is defined as F1 @ 1 second: This is the same as F1.4 @ 2 seconds.

 

EV numbers, which are measures of light transmitted, are different from the ISO numbers set. EV numbers measure the amount of light available coming thru the lens.  ISO numbers measure the film/sensor sensitivity to light. That is why it is important to tie an EV number to a specific ISO rating when determining the sensitivity of a meter. Most meter manufacturers specify ISO 100/21 when describing their meter's sensitivity in either EV numbers or F stops & shutter speeds.

 

Examples:

Leitz MR & MR-4 meters both read from EV 2 to EV 18 in reflected light mode ISO 100/21

 

That is the same as F1.4 @ 1/2 second to F16 @ 1/1000

 

Metrawatt Metrastar reads from EV -3 to EV 18 in both Incident & Reflected Light modes ISO 100/21

 

That is the same as F1.4 @ 15 seconds to F16 @ 1/1000

 

Gossen Lunapro reads from EV -4 to EV 17 in both Incident & Reflected light mode ISO 100/21.

 

This is the same as F1.4 @ 30 seconds to F16 @ 1/500

 

This might make it easier to compare relative usability.

 

By the way, these are readings beginning at the first marked line after 0 at the low light end & stopping at the last marked line before the end of the bright light scale.

 

Readings in the spaces omitted at both ends can be inaccurate.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think for a 35mm Leica the Sekonic 208 is the way to go. I do have a 308 but for general hand held photography there is a lot of scrolling and turning the meter this way and that to get a simple reflective reading, it's the meter I use when the camera is on a tripod. The 208 on the other hand allows you to see immediately the speed opposite your chosen aperture, or visa versa. It is also reliable, and has been pointed out the battery lasts forever, and takes up no space.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think for a 35mm Leica the Sekonic 208 is the way to go. I do have a 308 but for general hand held photography there is a lot of scrolling and turning the meter this way and that to get a simple reflective reading, it's the meter I use when the camera is on a tripod. The 208 on the other hand allows you to see immediately the speed opposite your chosen aperture, or visa versa. It is also reliable, and has been pointed out the battery lasts forever, and takes up no space.

I agree totally with your comments! I use my 508 when the camera is on the tripod, other wise the 208 is ideal.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Digital meters like the 308 don't provide an at a glance view of all the exposure combinations, you usually have to press a button or something. Also, the 308 is 80% taller, 50% wider, less than 10% thinner and weighs 2.5 times as much. My 208 is still on it's original battery (in tolerance) after over two years of ownership.

 

I hate using my Sekonic 308.

A lack of Aperture priority setting makes no sense. It only requires another mental step to work backward but that's not the point, and I too like to see all my exposure options on an analogue scale.

 

I plan on buying an analogue meter soon.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I also carry a light meter most of the time for landscapes, the L308 is very accurate but when using my M2 I have Weston meter bought from eBay and checked against my l758 meter, the Weston is joy to use and despite its age still very accurate about 1/2 stop out,

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

I still have my father's Weston Master V (repaired/serviced some 15 years ago) which is still reasonably accurate and mostly used with my Bronica SQA outfit and occasionally with the Widepan. My neice will inherit it one day :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...