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  1. This meter bears a striking resemblance, does it not, to the Voigtlander vc ii meter but at a tiny fraction of the price! One wonders about the relative quality and accuracy! Is this a cheap Chinese rip-off of the vc ii - or even made in the factory that produces meters under the 'Voigtlander' name and is flogging a copy on the side, as it were? Who can say? I think we should be told!
  2. There is one of these on Ebay, being offered by Classic Photography UK (!) for the interesting, not to say stimulating, price of £392.12 (plus £5.95 postage!!!). Anyone interested?
  3. I use a carbon fibre Novoflex tripod with Magicball head. Compact and superb quality.
  4. Thanks for your response: much appreciated! There is no contrast filter on the window with the tint. Although I do not possess such a filter, I am familiar with what they look like and what they do. I would emphasize that the yellow tint is readily obvious when covering the respective windows but, as I said, it does not hinder focusing. I wondered if it was due to the half silvered mirror needing replacing (I understand that the mirror can cause problems). Apart from the pale yellow tint, the image is very clear - just tinted!
  5. Viewing the camera from the front, covering the right-hand circular window, yields an image through the rangefinder window at the rear that is tinted pale yellow. Covering that circular window results in a very clear and bright image via the other circular window. Am I correct in assuming that there is a mirror problem in the rangefinder? I would add that the pale yellow component is quite bright and focusing is, I find, easy: the yellowish image contrasts quite well with the clear image during focusing. Is it worth having the camera serviced - or should I carry on with it as it is, given that focusing is no problem. I am no expert and would appreciate any advice; thanks in anticipation!
  6. I have acquired a iiif which hasn't been used for some time but appears to be in excellent condition. But some slow speeds were occasionally but not invariably not running correctly - shutter would open but not close until the winder was advanced. The escapement was not running at every attempt, notably on 1 sec.. I repeatedly operated the shutter on the slow speeds and now the slow speeds invariably work correctly with the escapement sounding fine. As far as I can judge all the speeds seem accurate (comparing with another Leica and/or a watch). But I have found a curiosity. Now I do not make a habit of operating the camera upside down but I have found that 1 sec will not operate with the camera inverted - I have to wind on to close the shutter. 1/2 sec upwards is fine upside down. All speeds are OK with the camera in portrait position. I know that this is a frivolous query (for who uses their cameras upside down?) but any ideas why this should be so? OK I could get the camera serviced but being a not wealthy pensioner I would prefer to avoid this. Obviously I avoid the problem by not attempting to use the camera upside down .... I hope my post does not seem too frivolous, but I am curious as to what is going on!
  7. I have to agree with Thomas. In the 1970s I used a llla exclusively for six years, taking something like four thousands slides from modern cassettes with never any problem.
  8. Personally I WOULD still trim the film: far better safe than sorry. When all said and done trimming is highly recommended by very many people -including Leica (see illustration inside the camera!) - who know!!
  9. This has been for sale on Ebay months ago: it didn't, it seems, sell then. Can't imagine it selling now at that price!
  10. Beware of being offered Leica gear - possibly at very competitive prices- https://www.diyphotography.net/massive-haul-of-leica-cameras-and-lenses-stolen-from-ffordes-scotland-camera-store/
  11. I regularly use a iiif and a iiig. Today I took out my iiig for the first time for about six weeks (a long time for me!). There was a film in the camera, with the counter on 12. However, when I turned the wind-on knob to wind the film and set the shutter, it turned freely. After about six revolutions I felt the resistance as the film wound and the shutter was set. During the free turning events the shutter was not cocked (pressing the button did nothing). I continued to use the camera with no further problem and loaded another film which wound perfectly. Needless to say the advance/rewind lever was right at the advance setting throughout. I checked! Strangely, I had a similar experience with my iiif. I had recently collected it from Malcolm Taylor (a small job on the viewfinder: the camera had therefore not been used for a few weeks!) and it had a film in it, about frame 15. Like today the winder turned freely for about three revolutions before advancing the film and setting the shutter. (As today the a/r level was fully in the 'a' position). This problem has only arisen on these two occasions and both cameras normally operate perfectly. I tend to get through two or three films per week, sharing the usage between both cameras. Any ideas or advice would be gratefully received!
  12. I can be a bit neurotic about lens defects like haze! I have a 1949 round iris Summitar in apparently first class condition; the pictures (slides) it takes are quite excellent. All lenses I purchase are subject to the flashlight test, as was the Summitar. However, I have recently bought a potent LED headtorch (not for checking lens condition!) and I used it to do a flashlight test on the Summitar. The LED is 168 Lumens - VERY bright! All seemed well but near the back of the lens, on an inside element which would be cemented, the light revealed what I can only describe as an almost completely transparent very slightly textured surface (for want of a better word!). This is uniform over the element, is not tinted, and is certainly not haze or fungus. Could it be that the strong light is simply illuminating the (admittedly 69 year old) balsam layer? If so, given that I am happy with the photos, is it worth having the lens serviced? Do you think my tentative diagnosis is correct? Any comments or advice would be very welcome!
  13. Many thanks for the enlightening replies: I shall buy a couple more adapters! And my dog will enjoy his breakfast!!
  14. I regularly use a iiif and a iiig. I am considering buying an M2. The Summitar that I own came with a (Voigtlander) screw to M adapter, 50mm and 75mm. Now I have three lenses I am likely to use on an M2; 35mm, 50mm, 90mm. I understand that the various adapters bring up the correct frame lines in the M viewfinder: is there any reason why I shouldn't use just my existing adapter and use the frame selector lever on the M to bring up the correct frame lines for whichever lens I use? I am pretty ignorant regarding the technicalities of M cameras so ask for understanding if I am asking a silly question! Any advice will be much appreciated!
  15. A person in Canada is selling, on Ebay, the last M3 ever made. It is complete with paper work (from Leitz) testifying to the fact that it is, indeed, the last M3, and is unused and boxed etc etc. If you're interested the price is something in excess of £447,000 (Yes: four hundred and forty-seven thousand pounds!). Are you interested? Here's a link - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THE-LAST-LEICA-M3-1164865-CHROME-10150-CAMERA-BOX-PAPERS-NEVER-USED-AMAZING/292548459994?hash=item441d3f3dda:g:3joAAOSwtdVa6zt6
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