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I just started using my new TL today, and ran into a problem, which I'm sure has a lot to do with my inexperience. I'm a relatively new photographer, and I've mostly only used Canon Rebels, which is what I learned on.

 

I have 2 strobe lights, which I'm triggering with a PocketWizard. With my TL, the viewfinder is too dark to see anything, and when I take the photo, the pictures comes up as fine. If I use settings so that I can see the subject in the viewfinder before the photo, then when I take the photo, it's completely overexposed. What am I doing wrong? With the Canon T6i, it all works perfectly, but with the TL, and all the same settings, I'm having the issue. I'm sure it's something simple, a setting, that I'm not doing correctly. I've looked through the manual and it doesn't tell me anything.  I don't understand why, if it is perfectly light enough for me to see the object with my own eyes, it would be almost black, through the viewfinder.

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The problem is that with actual firmware in the T/TL you cannot disable the exposure simulation 

  

Using strobes you set exposure for more light (the strobe light) than you have in your studio (available light)  therefore what you see is what the photo would be if no strobe is used, much darker than the real photo with strobe.

 

With previous versions of firmware it was possible to disable this but not sure why with recent versions it is no more possible. I'm afraid you can hope/wait for a new firmware version. It should be an easy fix from Leica, I guess.

 

robert

PS: this is why I didn't buy a T/TL even if I like it 

Edited by robert blu
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The problem is that with actual firmware in the T/TL you cannot disable the exposure simulation 

  

Using strobes you set exposure for more light (the strobe light) than you have in your studio (available light)  therefore what you see is what the photo would be if no strobe is used, much darker than the real photo with strobe.

 

With previous versions of firmware it was possible to disable this but not sure why with recent versions it is no more possible. I'm afraid you can hope/wait for a new firmware version. It should be an easy fix from Leica, I guess.

 

robert

PS: this is why I didn't buy a T/TL even if I like it 

 

Thank you, that does help explain it. But what I don't understand is that even without the flash being triggered, I'm using the modeling light, which makes it pretty bright. I'm in my house, and there's a good amount of indirect sunlight coming in the windows, so it's not a dark room. I can see perfectly well without the overhead lights being turned on, and with the modeling light, it's even brighter when I focus on the object.

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Thank you, that does help explain it. But what I don't understand is that even without the flash being triggered, I'm using the modeling light, which makes it pretty bright. I'm in my house, and there's a good amount of indirect sunlight coming in the windows, so it's not a dark room. I can see perfectly well without the overhead lights being turned on, and with the modeling light, it's even brighter when I focus on the object.

If you press the shutter button half way without triggering the shutter, should show you the exposure....most of the time. I find doesn't work if not enough light in some situations. What are your settings and what lens are you using? I will defer to someone with a TL as mine is older T and haven't updated to last firmware update yet.

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If you press the shutter button half way without triggering the shutter, should show you the exposure....most of the time. I find doesn't work if not enough light in some situations. What are your settings and what lens are you using? I will defer to someone with a TL as mine is older T and haven't updated to last firmware update yet.

 

When I press it half-way it's just dark, as well.  I started off with the same setting I was using on my Canon T6i, which is 1/125, f-stop 22, 400 ISO. It works perfectly on that camera. The F-stop on my TL doesn't go that high, it only goes up to 16. So when it wasn't working, I tried to adjust it, and maybe this is where my inexperience came in. I tried to tweak the 3 settings, but everything continued to have the really dark exposure view.

 

I'm using the 55-135 ASPH lens. at 55mm.

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I do not think it is very wise to use f22 in general (large format excepted) if you can avoid it, especially on the smaller sensor of the T/TL. You lose a considerable amount of sharpness through diffraction.

 

Thanks for the advice. Could you explain to this nube?   Also, to clarify, it wasn't the TL I was using f22, it was the T6i

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When I press it half-way it's just dark, as well.  I started off with the same setting I was using on my Canon T6i, which is 1/125, f-stop 22, 400 ISO. It works perfectly on that camera. The F-stop on my TL doesn't go that high, it only goes up to 16. So when it wasn't working, I tried to adjust it, and maybe this is where my inexperience came in. I tried to tweak the 3 settings, but everything continued to have the really dark exposure view.

 

I'm using the 55-135 ASPH lens. at 55mm.

In am a bit confused. If you press the shutter half way and it's still dark, and the resulting photo is dark, then is working the way is supposed to. If is the opposite, overexposed, then you may not have it on manual settings, is my guess. Are you shooting Manual, Program AE, Aperture Priority, or Shutter Priority?

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In am a bit confused. If you press the shutter half way and it's still dark, and the resulting photo is dark, then is working the way is supposed to. If is the opposite, overexposed, then you may not have it on manual settings, is my guess. Are you shooting Manual, Program AE, Aperture Priority, or Shutter Priority?

No, that's not what I said. The resulting photos was not dark, it was just a bad photo, because I couldn't frame the subject. It was the correct exposure. I said that if I adjust settings so that I can see it when pressing shutter halfway, then the resulting photo would be overexposed.

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No, that's not what I said. The resulting photos was not dark, it was just a bad photo, because I couldn't frame the subject. It was the correct exposure. I said that if I adjust settings so that I can see it when pressing shutter halfway, then the resulting photo would be overexposed.

You can't compose the subject at a closed down aperture setting like F16, right? I think I understand better now. On my T, with same lens, if you set it to Aperture Priority, the view before you press the shutter down will likely be bright so you can compose. But setting all to manual, it's dark. If working manual, I would compose at wider aperture then close down to get your shot.

Edited by billinghambaglady
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You can't compose the subject at a closed down aperture setting like F16, right? I think I understand better now. On my T, with same lens, if you set it to Aperture Priority, the view before you press the shutter down will likely be bright so you can compose. But setting all to manual, it's dark. If working manual, I would compose at wider aperture then close down to get your shot.

f16 is where I wanted to take the shot at, but I tried everything. I prefer to shoot in manual, but I also tried AP. On manual, even at the largest f setting it was dark (With this lens I think the highest it will go is f3.5). I tried some of the program modes, I even tried auto. Same thing: dark screen, and dark screen as I press the shutter halfway. Then the photo turns out OK for lighting (but composition and focus are not what they should be.)

 

Like I said earlier, if I play with settings to the point where I can see it in the viewfinder, then the photo is overexposed.

 

Also, I want to stress, this is only an issue when I'm trying to use external strobes. Otherwise when I'm using existing light, it's fine.

 

Thank you for the advice on composing at wider aperture and closing it for the actual shot. I'll keep that in mind in the future, I haven't done that before.

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f16 is where I wanted to take the shot at, but I tried everything. I prefer to shoot in manual, but I also tried AP. On manual, even at the largest f setting it was dark (With this lens I think the highest it will go is f3.5). I tried some of the program modes, I even tried auto. Same thing: dark screen, and dark screen as I press the shutter halfway. Then the photo turns out OK for lighting (but composition and focus are not what they should be.)

 

Like I said earlier, if I play with settings to the point where I can see it in the viewfinder, then the photo is overexposed.

 

Also, I want to stress, this is only an issue when I'm trying to use external strobes. Otherwise when I'm using existing light, it's fine.

 

Thank you for the advice on composing at wider aperture and closing it for the actual shot. I'll keep that in mind in the future, I haven't done that before.

Besides changing the F stop, you can also adjust ISO or timing to your hearts content for composing, then set to the settings you desire before taking the photo with a flash. The camera can only work with the light it is receiving. I don't know of any way to simulate the light of the flash before taking the shot. Hope that helps.

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f16 is where I wanted to take the shot at, but I tried everything. I prefer to shoot in manual, but I also tried AP. On manual, even at the largest f setting it was dark (With this lens I think the highest it will go is f3.5). I tried some of the program modes, I even tried auto. Same thing: dark screen, and dark screen as I press the shutter halfway. Then the photo turns out OK for lighting (but composition and focus are not what they should be.)

 

Like I said earlier, if I play with settings to the point where I can see it in the viewfinder, then the photo is overexposed.

 

Also, I want to stress, this is only an issue when I'm trying to use external strobes. Otherwise when I'm using existing light, it's fine.

 

Thank you for the advice on composing at wider aperture and closing it for the actual shot. I'll keep that in mind in the future, I haven't done that before.

Also, had another thought, adjusting the brightness of the back monitor and also the same for the EVF assuming you are using....might help a little. But, remember these are all just getting info from the sensor. In a DSLR, you are looking directly via a mirror thru the lens and so your eye adjusts.

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Also, had another thought, adjusting the brightness of the back monitor and also the same for the EVF assuming you are using....might help a little. But, remember these are all just getting info from the sensor. In a DSLR, you are looking directly via a mirror thru the lens and so your eye adjusts.

 

I think you might have hit on something; I've only ever used a DSLR.  On my Cannon T6i, with the same setup I described, I see the subject when composing the shot, and when pushing the button half-way down, and when I shoot, the shot looks perfect. But that's a DSLR.  With the same settings on the TL, I don't see the subject while composing and pushing shutter half way down.  So is this the difference between DSLR and mirror-less?

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I think you might have hit on something; I've only ever used a DSLR.  On my Cannon T6i, with the same setup I described, I see the subject when composing the shot, and when pushing the button half-way down, and when I shoot, the shot looks perfect. But that's a DSLR.  With the same settings on the TL, I don't see the subject while composing and pushing shutter half way down.  So is this the difference between DSLR and mirror-less?

yes and no. Some mirrorless cameras, like the M which has been around forever, use a analog viewfinder which to some is better but you aren't seeing thru the lens and can't see depth of field or if in focus, but rely on a different method of focusing. A lot of newer mirrorless have just the back screen or/and built in or external EVF which can only see what the sensor sees. There are pluses and minuses between both DSLR and mirrorless.

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I have a couple of questions: are you using a prime lens or a zoom? How do you trigger the external strobe (I fuss with internal flash).

 

Because as I said earlier the T/TL doesn't allow to disable the exposure simulation the only way to overcome the problem to have a very dark EVF or LCD would be in my opinion to use an external optical VF. Of course this is possible only if you use a prime lens (with the 23 you could use any 35 VF from Leica or Voitglander) but you need to have the hotshot free.

 

robert

 

PS: post 3 and 5 in this thread can help you, I hope so 

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I have a couple of questions: are you using a prime lens or a zoom? How do you trigger the external strobe (I fuss with internal flash).

 

Because as I said earlier the T/TL doesn't allow to disable the exposure simulation the only way to overcome the problem to have a very dark EVF or LCD would be in my opinion to use an external optical VF. Of course this is possible only if you use a prime lens (with the 23 you could use any 35 VF from Leica or Voitglander) but you need to have the hotshot free.

 

robert

 

PS: post 3 and 5 in this thread can help you, I hope so 

 

I am using the zoom 55-135. I agree, I think what you mentioned is the problem. I sent an email to Leica about it and they are forwarding my concern to Germany. 

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I am using the zoom 55-135. I agree, I think what you mentioned is the problem. I sent an email to Leica about it and they are forwarding my concern to Germany. 

 

 

Because the problem you are experiencing is the main reason for which I didn't buy a T/TL , which a part of this i think it's an interesting concept, please report the Leica answer if any, I'm really interested in it

robert

Edited by robert blu
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