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Classic Metering technique


PaulJohn

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My understanding is that digital Ms do not lock auto ISO in manual mode. Am I wrong? Mine is in NJ so I can't try it.

 

John

Depends on the setting in menu. You can set the 240 to revert to the last chosen ISO on going  to manual (which can cause you to have a problem  if you set it to something unusual previously which  you forgot about) and then you can choose and fix ISO.

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Depends on the setting in menu. You can set the 240 to revert to the last chosen ISO on going  to manual (which can cause you to have a problem  if you set it to something unusual previously which  you forgot about) and then you can choose and fix ISO.

 

Thanks, Jaap. I'm an MM1 user, so I reckon I'm in the wrong forum.

 

John 

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No. When you set ISO by the ISO button.

 The M-240 locks any auto exposure function (shutter speed & Auto ISO) with a half press. The M9 Monochrom is different.  Half press will lock both shutterspeed and Auto ISO if in Aperture Priority mode, but does nothing if in Manual mode.

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 The M-240 locks any auto exposure function (shutter speed & Auto ISO) with a half press. The M9 Monochrom is different.  Half press will lock both shutterspeed and Auto ISO if in Aperture Priority mode, but does nothing if in Manual mode.

Yes, but which ISO will be locked is a bit of a gamble.

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The M-240 locks any auto exposure function (shutter speed & Auto ISO) with a half press. The M9 Monochrom is different.  Half press will lock both shutterspeed and Auto ISO if in Aperture Priority mode, but does nothing if in Manual mode.

Thank you. That's my experience with the MM1 and what I wanted confirmed. Though I wish it worked like the M-240.

 

John

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If you are outdoors in good light, why even rely on the meter? At ISO 200, 1/250 at f11 or any other reciprocal equivalent will get the job done, adding one-half to one-stop as needed depending on shade conditions. That's how I use my M262 or M9 all the time. I go back to the meter when necessary, but try it and you'll be surprised how often you can get by without it and be all the better for it.

 

If you mean the sunny 16 rule, then you are one stop too bright here. This would apply in bright, sunny condition. If you turn around and have a subject against the light you might easily need 4 stops more light. I feel this system was OK 50 years ago, when we did not have lightmeters in-camera.

 

heiko

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When shooting action (weddings) I meter the sun lit parts and the shadows. By this I know what exposure I need for faces in sunlight and for faces in shadow.

 

Very often it is like this: ISO 100, 2.0, Sun 1/4000. In shadow 1/250. No science here, just experience.

 

 

heiko

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Just find a proper exposure for your average scene, meter you palm which is average,  and figure the correction required.  It will be .5 to 1.0 stops more exposure for the scene than your palm. 

 

Always keep your palm in same light as subject.

 

Use an incident meter.

 

Meter off a whi Bal card in same light as subject.  

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If you mean the sunny 16 rule, then you are one stop too bright here. This would apply in bright, sunny condition. If you turn around and have a subject against the light you might easily need 4 stops more light. I feel this system was OK 50 years ago, when we did not have lightmeters in-camera.

 

heiko

Actually, I meant what I said. That's what works with the M262. F16 is a little too underexposed.

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