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Yes, I usually zone focus particularly with my 28mm. But I don't set it and forget it. Rather, I may keep it idle at 6 feet but I will constantly change zones depending how far away my subject is. In this regard using a single lens and getting to know the focus throw is really beneficial.

Thanks , so to your M setup. Do you auto ISO with a minimum speed set? I know I tend to do that. (Sorry for the inquisition, but I'm interested in any improvement I can make to my approach). Really appreciate your time.

 

 

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Thanks , so to your M setup. Do you auto ISO with a minimum speed set? I know I tend to do that. (Sorry for the inquisition, but I'm interested in any improvement I can make to my approach). Really appreciate your time.

 

 

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Not a problem at all.  With all of my film cameras I use a purely manual workflow based on my reading of the light (and if necessary a small Sekonic hand-held incident meter).

When I used Digital, I (eventually) did the same thing but digital is not as forgiving as film in the highlights - but more forgiving than film in the shadows - so my workflow was a little different (i.e., I ended up if anything underexposing in order to not get stuck with ugly blown highlights and rely on the MM to preserve good shadow detail).  I never used auto-ISO or the in-camera meter for that matter for this type of shooting b/c one slight tilt in the wrong direction (particularly upward) and the meter reading gets out of whack.  

 

Learning the sunny 16 rule and how to adapt it to your camera and shooting context is really the way to go.  Just take a little time investment and then it pays dividends and is like a gift that keeps on giving :)

Edited by A miller
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Not a problem at all. With all of my film I use a purely manual workflow based on my reading of the light (and if necessary a small Sekonic hand-held incident meter).

When I used Digital, I did the same thing but digital is not as forgiving as film in the highlights - but more forgiving than film in the shadows - so my workflow was a little different (i.e., I ended up if anything underexposing in order to not get stuck with ugly blown highlights and rely on the MM to preserve good shadow detail). I never used auto-ISO or the in-camera meter for that matter for this type of shooting b/c one slight tilt in the wrong direction (particularly upward) and the meter reading gets out of whack.

 

Learning the sunny 16 rule and how to adapt it to your camera and shooting context is really the way to go. Just take a little time investment and then it pays dividends and is like a gift that keeps on giving :)

Thanks, I fully understand. I was just really curious. I rarely get to see snow yet alone shoot in it. I live on a coastline warmed and washed by the damp North Atlantic drift in South Wales. But yes I fully use sunny f16 too, folks around here call it sunny f11.5 - ha that says it all!

 

I've been shooting film since 1978 and my darkroom work was learnt in school. I shot slide until 2001. Pure digital until 2013 and now am into Leica. I'm half German and on a holiday to my Mums home town Fulda visited Leica Wetzlar for their 100 year celebrations. Now I'm hooked - Typ 109, M9, M3, M6TTL. Got my M9 a new sensor there this summer. Got to see the Elliott Erwitt exhibition.

 

They turned it around in just under 3 weeks and calibrated by camera and put new electronics in the finder for gratis, just because I had some sensor corrosion - respect!

 

c65307084c5544e25cfa9af36b755930.jpg52f7e99efeb684ad1f4441de2d3d5bd4.jpg

 

 

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Thanks, I fully understand. I was just really curious. I rarely get to see snow yet alone shoot in it. I live on a coastline warmed and washed by the damp North Atlantic drift in South Wales. But yes I fully use sunny f16 too, folks around here call it sunny f11.5 - ha that says it all!

I've been shooting film since 1978 and my darkroom work was learnt in school. I shot slide until 2001. Pure digital until 2013 and now am into Leica. I'm half German and on a holiday to my Mums home town Fulda visited Leica Wetzlar for their 100 year celebrations. Now I'm hooked - Typ 109, M9, M3, M6TTL. Got my M9 a new sensor there this summer. Got to see the Elliot Erwin exhibition.

They turned it around in just under 3 weeks and calibrated by camera and put new electronics in the finder for gratis, just because I had some sensor corrosion - respect!c65307084c5544e25cfa9af36b755930.jpg52f7e99efeb684ad1f4441de2d3d5bd4.jpg

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Well with all that very impressive background it sounds like all you need is some snow and you're off to the races !

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M-A, 28mm elmarit pre-asph, Portra 400
 

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M-A, 28mm elmarit pre-asph, Portra 800

 

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Not a problem at all.  With all of my film cameras I use a purely manual workflow based on my reading of the light (and if necessary a small Sekonic hand-held incident meter).

When I used Digital, I (eventually) did the same thing but digital is not as forgiving as film in the highlights - but more forgiving than film in the shadows - so my workflow was a little different (i.e., I ended up if anything underexposing in order to not get stuck with ugly blown highlights and rely on the MM to preserve good shadow detail).  I never used auto-ISO or the in-camera meter for that matter for this type of shooting b/c one slight tilt in the wrong direction (particularly upward) and the meter reading gets out of whack.  

 

Learning the sunny 16 rule and how to adapt it to your camera and shooting context is really the way to go.  Just take a little time investment and then it pays dividends and is like a gift that keeps on giving :)

 

Thanks 

 

Very helpful to have a reminder of these things, a little refresher course 

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Hi Adam,

 

Absolutely love your street photos, I could not choose a favourite if I was pushed as they are all superb.

 

Just some questions please?

 

You shoot with flash a lot, do your subjects ever complain? If so how do you explain it?

 

I see that you are shooting film, do you process yourself or farm it out?

 

Are you shooting E6 and then scanning, what B&W film are you using?

 

I can feel the cold in the photo's and love them whether colour or B&W, that biting cold reminds me of my first trip to NY in 97, it was bitter, truly bitter and I sympathise with your subjects.

 

Apologises for all the questions.

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Thanks very much, Gentlemen. :)

 

John - I am not going to lie - sometime I get complaints.  But most of the time I do not.  ESPECIALLY when it snows I rarely ever get complaints b/c people are so busy navigating and they are already taken out of their element.

I use a local NYC lab to process all of my film.

I shoot all types of films and scan all of it in.  Occasionally, I'll make a wet print of one of my B&W negatives.  I rarely make a wet print of one of my color negatives (and there is no long any such thing as making a wet print from a slide film positive).

My favorite B&W film is Tri-X.  But that's just me and entirely personal preference.

Thanks 

 

Very helpful to have a reminder of these things, a little refresher course 

 

 

Hi Adam,

 

Absolutely love your street photos, I could not choose a favourite if I was pushed as they are all superb.

 

Just some questions please?

 

You shoot with flash a lot, do your subjects ever complain? If so how do you explain it?

 

I see that you are shooting film, do you process yourself or farm it out?

 

Are you shooting E6 and then scanning, what B&W film are you using?

 

I can feel the cold in the photo's and love them whether colour or B&W, that biting cold reminds me of my first trip to NY in 97, it was bitter, truly bitter and I sympathise with your subjects.

 

Apologises for all the questions.

 

 

 

Agree on that - just like the Black & White versions more.  ;)

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Life goes on in the blizzard...
M3, 50mm summilux asph, Tri-X
 
 

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Thanks for these consistently great pictures.

This sunny 16 business is not easy to parachute into, as I am finding out ever since I acquired an early M4 a couple of months back. I'm trying cheap tricks like a mobile phone app and sometimes running off the reading I get from the M6 to ascertain exposure. I have also printed off a convenient reference card I found online to go by. It's all a bit up there at the moment but I'll be thrilled to gain some certainty to my guesses so I can start thinking of them as educated guesses... 

In any case, I admire your pictures.

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Thanks for these consistently great pictures.

This sunny 16 business is not easy to parachute into, as I am finding out ever since I acquired an early M4 a couple of months back. I'm trying cheap tricks like a mobile phone app and sometimes running off the reading I get from the M6 to ascertain exposure. I have also printed off a convenient reference card I found online to go by. It's all a bit up there at the moment but I'll be thrilled to gain some certainty to my guesses so I can start thinking of them as educated guesses... 

In any case, I admire your pictures.

 

Thanks a lot, Suede. 

I have full faith that you will succeed with your manual workflow,  Just think about how people used to take photos in the 50's before the in-camera light meter became prevalent.  It didn't stop them - many of which are some of the all-time greats.  I happen to think that in-camera metering was a marketing invention and not a photographic invention.... but that's another topic altogether  :ph34r:

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M3, 28mm elmarit pre-asph, Tmax 400

 

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MM, 35 lux fle

 

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