Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 31, 2016 Share #241 Posted March 31, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Question time. I plan to carry my Leica Q with me when I am out with my new M6. Mainly because I like it but secondly as I will be starting off shooting B&W with the M6 and will have it for backup for any in your face color pictures. So my question is this. I'm away to take a beautiful landscape with difficult light so to CYA could I set the ISO to 400 on my Q and also set the aperture to say f8 and use the Leica Q as a meter for the M6 playing with the shutter speed on the Q to get the desired histogram at the two preset already set on the M6. I know it's cheating but I'm thinking it will work??? I would then bracket each side of what the Q histogram recommend? I'm currently sat in the lounge at Lagos airport waiting for my first leg home. Tomorrow I will take my first ever film camera shot.......... Exciting [emoji3][emoji3][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji3][emoji3] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 31, 2016 Posted March 31, 2016 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here Leica Film Odyssey for a beginner. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
earleygallery Posted March 31, 2016 Share #242 Posted March 31, 2016 Neil, yes, you could take a meter reading on the Q set at the same ISO, but remember your M6 has a meter built in so again, don't overthink/over complicate matters for yourself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 31, 2016 Share #243 Posted March 31, 2016 What dynamism Neil , it amazes me more and more Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 31, 2016 Share #244 Posted March 31, 2016 What dynamism Neil , it amazes me more and more Thats why Chevron have me managing a multi billion dollar operation [emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3]Thinking on my feet[emoji12][emoji482][emoji3][emoji482][emoji3] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 31, 2016 Share #245 Posted March 31, 2016 Also picking up the Lee GND filter system for the Q on Saturday and I will also get adapters for 46 and 39mm lenses as well[emoji3] We will soon be cruising[emoji328][emoji328][emoji481][emoji481] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
@McLeica Posted March 31, 2016 Share #246 Posted March 31, 2016 Also picking up the Lee GND filter system for the Q on Saturday and I will also get adapters for 46 and 39mm lenses as well[emoji3] I think I'm living vicariously through you Neil. I feel like I've acquired a load of kit over the last week! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 31, 2016 Share #247 Posted March 31, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I think I'm living vicariously through you Neil. I feel like I've acquired a load of kit over the last week! i love this forum. You guys are so funny Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 31, 2016 Share #248 Posted March 31, 2016 I think I'm living vicariously through you Neil. I feel like I've acquired a load of kit over the last week! i love this forum. You guys are so funny Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted March 31, 2016 Share #249 Posted March 31, 2016 I have managed to rip the film off the spool at the end of the roll on a number of occasions, usually when using "roll your own" cassettes that I didn't tape the film to the spool properly. I also have managed to rip "ready-rolled" film. I must be ham-fisted. I've done it a few times over the years when travelling and stupidly trying to get that last frame off the roll which was just short of fully winding on . Fortunately they occurred in cold weather so I had my trusty emergency in-the-field darkroom so I could immediately fix the problem and get on with my photography. For the uninitiated: 1. Work in a dark or shady area. 2. Close up the zipper/buttons on a heavy jacket and lie it front down. 3. Put the camera and an opaque film canister into the middle of the jacket. 4. Fold over the neck and bottom edge of the jacket so no light can reach the camera. 5. Put your hands and arms backwards down the arms of the jacket until you can handle the camera. 6. Open the camera back, put the camera into rewind and carefully wind off the film into a reasonably tight roll being careful not to touch the emulsion. Remarkably easy to do blind. 7. Put the film into the canister and then put the lid on the canister. 8. You're done and can now load your next film into the camera and get on with things. 9. Remember to mark and seal the canister so it's not accidentally opened except in a darkroom Be prepared for very funny looks from bystanders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted March 31, 2016 Share #250 Posted March 31, 2016 Question time. I plan to carry my Leica Q with me when I am out with my new M6. Mainly because I like it but secondly as I will be starting off shooting B&W with the M6 and will have it for backup for any in your face color pictures. So my question is this. I'm away to take a beautiful landscape with difficult light so to CYA could I set the ISO to 400 on my Q and also set the aperture to say f8 and use the Leica Q as a meter for the M6 playing with the shutter speed on the Q to get the desired histogram at the two preset already set on the M6. I know it's cheating but I'm thinking it will work??? I would then bracket each side of what the Q histogram recommend? I'm currently sat in the lounge at Lagos airport waiting for my first leg home. Tomorrow I will take my first ever film camera shot.......... Exciting [emoji3][emoji3][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji3][emoji3] Yes, Neil - This works fine. I have used my MM to meter for my M6 TTL, and my M6 to meter for 'other' film camera, which does not have a meter. With your Q being a 28mm, you just need to make sure that it's the relevant area of the image that you're checking the exposure on. I wouldn't worry about the histogram (as it's going to be based on the full field of view) - Just take a shot with the Q and see how it looks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted March 31, 2016 Share #251 Posted March 31, 2016 Question time. I plan to carry my Leica Q with me when I am out with my new M6. Mainly because I like it but secondly as I will be starting off shooting B&W with the M6 and will have it for backup for any in your face color pictures. So my question is this. I'm away to take a beautiful landscape with difficult light so to CYA could I set the ISO to 400 on my Q and also set the aperture to say f8 and use the Leica Q as a meter for the M6 playing with the shutter speed on the Q to get the desired histogram at the two preset already set on the M6. I know it's cheating but I'm thinking it will work??? I would then bracket each side of what the Q histogram recommend? I'm currently sat in the lounge at Lagos airport waiting for my first leg home. Tomorrow I will take my first ever film camera shot.......... Exciting [emoji3][emoji3][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji3][emoji3] I might be wrong but my take on this is: you are grossly overthinking the whole thing, unnecessarily complicating what's simple. Trust me. Meter off of the palm of your hand...set your M6 to that exposure and fire away. If you are unsure, fire one at that exposure, then open up one stop and do it again, and one more and do it again. Really...you are making this MUCH more difficult than it needs to be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Livingston Posted March 31, 2016 Share #252 Posted March 31, 2016 Couldn't agree more...! Just use the meter in the camera as normal... It's what most people do... or even exchange the M6 for the M7 if you just want a film version of your old digital M. In all the years I shot film, I would simply use the cameras meter as anyone else, I myself never used to bother metering off a hand or a grey card (too lazy and too 'fussy' for my way of photographing, although strictly speaking, it's good practice to do so, especially if you are unsure of the 'correct' exposure due to the immediate lighting conditions. If I thought I would need to bracket, I would just do it while looking through the viewfinder and watch the needle... half or a full stop either way was easy to see (on both a Pentax Spotmatic F or a Nikon F2A), or you would just count full f stops up or down (or shutter speeds). I ALWAYS preferred a 'needle' meter indicator rather than LED indication - if you are going to go analogue, may as well be fully analogue! A stop or two in either direction is all you need if you do have to bracket... There is enough latitude to not have to worry about it much anyway unless you are in a really tricky position. I had never heard of a histogram when I was using my Nikons, let alone think it was essential!!! Keep it simple Neil... it's not the camera that is important here, it's you. If you are not happy with the results, keep practicing, a new/different camera will not improve your photography, only you can do that. Your published results are often very good, I wouldn't worry too much. If it's simply that you want to spend money on camera gear, I'm sure most of us can send you a request or two! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted March 31, 2016 Share #253 Posted March 31, 2016 I think you should trust the meter in the M6. By viewing the scene in the VF you'll see instantly how the meter reacts to different sources of light and can adjust shutter speed/aperture/framing to get accurate exposure. That the Q has a wider focal length and a different metering system is one factor, but another is that the framing will differ and that the scen/light may have changed. I'm also wondering if the histogram on a digital camera will give the right guidance for a scene shot on film (though I guess it depends on the film used). And, since film is cheap, bracket on the M6 instead. Anyway, while the latitude of film will probably be able to handle the differences there's no reason not to trust the M6's meter and immerse yourself into a full film experience. Once you hear the "snick" of the shutter and know that you've optically etched an image onto a physical medium you'll be hooked. Film is a rabbit hole. Philip Question time.I plan to carry my Leica Q with me when I am out with my new M6. Mainly because I like it but secondly as I will be starting off shooting B&W with the M6 and will have it for backup for any in your face color pictures.So my question is this.I'm away to take a beautiful landscape with difficult light so to CYA could I set the ISO to 400 on my Q and also set the aperture to say f8 and use the Leica Q as a meter for the M6 playing with the shutter speed on the Q to get the desired histogram at the two preset already set on the M6. I know it's cheating but I'm thinking it will work???I would then bracket each side of what the Q histogram recommend?I'm currently sat in the lounge at Lagos airport waiting for my first leg home. Tomorrow I will take my first ever film camera shot.......... Exciting [emoji3][emoji3][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji3][emoji3] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 31, 2016 Share #254 Posted March 31, 2016 ...Meter off of the palm of your hand...set your M6 to that exposure and fire away... "Meter off the palm of your hand and set your M6 to that exposure and fire away" — and you will usually have underexposed by one stop, not what you want. The procedure with film, if you're metering off of your palm, is to open up a stop from this reading. For digital you would indeed not open up a stop — when you want to underexpose by a stop to protect highlights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted March 31, 2016 Share #255 Posted March 31, 2016 "Meter off the palm of your hand and set your M6 to that exposure and fire away" — and you will usually have underexposed by one stop, not what you want. The procedure with film, if you're metering off of your palm, is to open up a stop from this reading. For digital you would indeed not open up a stop — when you want to underexpose by a stop to protect highlights. I should have explained; my palm (for whatever reason) perfectly matches my sekonic meter. Most folks say to meter off of your palm and then open up a stop. i've never had to, but yes..that's good advice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted March 31, 2016 Share #256 Posted March 31, 2016 As skin colour varies it's best to paint your hands bright emerald green or pillar box red. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 31, 2016 Share #257 Posted March 31, 2016 Actually not, while skin color varies, the luminance of the palm is virtually the same, whatever the skin color. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 31, 2016 Share #258 Posted March 31, 2016 Actually it is simplest to check the exposure meter of the M6 against one of the several exposure metering apps available for your smartphone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
@McLeica Posted March 31, 2016 Share #259 Posted March 31, 2016 As skin colour varies it's best to paint your hands bright emerald green or pillar box red. Speaking from experience, I prefer to sacrifice a goat to the Sun Gods at least once a year. Occasionally they respond positively and my one in 36 hit rate gets smashed! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted March 31, 2016 Share #260 Posted March 31, 2016 No Jaap, No GAS mate just something I have always fancied but shied away from it as I don't think I could be bothered with a dark room and all that BS. But then I found out that you basically take pictures on film then have a shop develop them for you and then run them through a scanner. Questions How important is it to get the right shop to develop the film, can anyone do it or is it better to look for a specialised shop? What kind of film would you recommend for a newbie (I like B&W) What kind of scanner would you recommend getting..........links please What kind of resolution can you expect to get from a scanned film negative or are they all the same? Look for a good second hand camera or buy new?? I guess I will need lenses as well so thinking ahead with new M in September a 50mm APO maybe.........I guess they work on film right? And maybe a 35mm as well What about lens speed, I guess its the same as digital right? Camera I recommend is a classic M6. I wouldn't pay more than $1200 for it. 1. It is you - be in charge of your own development. You don't need a darkroom to develop negatives. Rest is patience and practice, practice, and practice. 2. Start with Ilford HP5+ 400. Similar to Kodak Tri-X but a bit cheaper. 3. No scanner. Photograph your negatives to digitize them instead. 4. See point 3. I use a full frame camera with 36 MP sensor plus 1:1 macro lens which is more than sufficient. 5. Buy a used M camera. I wouldn't go above $1200 as set budget price. 6. No need to go for the latest and newest Leica M lenses. Again buy used. Older Leica M versions might be even advantageous over newer ones. Read online about Leica M lenses first and get an idea about lens versions at the same focal length. Alternatively, check out Voigtlander M lenses which are also excellent but less expensive. 7. ASA 400 is a good point to start, real film speed is slightly different from the given numbers. Ilford HP5+ 400 film is more an ISO 320 film. You can always push or pull film and adjust this in your development time later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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