jdlaing Posted December 10, 2015 Share #41 Posted December 10, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Don't you need to over expose by two stops from a hand reading? Depends on how light or dark your skin is. also, if you paint your hand 18% light gray, it could double as a white balance card. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 10, 2015 Posted December 10, 2015 Hi jdlaing, Take a look here M240, so dark so grey.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Manoleica Posted December 10, 2015 Share #42 Posted December 10, 2015 You can use EV to set up (3 shots) Original then + or - to your choice (it's a try and see) -- I noticed when I got my Safari, using jpeg, I had to tweak shadows & contrast down a little. I always set my EV @ +1... In DMG you can do everything in PP... Find a scene and take a range of photographs at different settings, your EXIF will tell you the details and use the info as a guide line for the future.. I would be inclined to do a Reset on the camera & start again..L Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted December 10, 2015 Share #43 Posted December 10, 2015 Depends on how light or dark your skin is. also, if you paint your hand 18% light gray, it could double as a white balance card. The palm of each human is quite close to 18% gray. Even people with very dark skins have light palms. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted December 10, 2015 Share #44 Posted December 10, 2015 I've been using the palm of my hand in the prevailing light, and it gets pretty close. The rest is down to artistic judgement to determine any adjustment required from the basic setting. In manual mode, I press the info button and this allows me to see the tweaks I make in terms of exposure value in +/- increments. The info button and manual exposure mode work well for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kilmister Posted December 10, 2015 Share #45 Posted December 10, 2015 No matter what skin colour, we all have light palms. It is because that's the way we are stacked when we are sprayed at the birth factory. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted December 10, 2015 Share #46 Posted December 10, 2015 'God', being the omnipotent power of the universe, or at least the ultimate authority over the 3rd rock from the sun, would have seen the development of photography well in advance of us mere mortal 'togs. In fact he probably has a 1GP iPhone camera just for day to day stuff, and summons one of us to join him, whether naturally or prematurely to get his exposure from an individuals's Palm. (Just thinking of Palm Sunday, I hadn't previously thought about that!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manoleica Posted December 10, 2015 Share #47 Posted December 10, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) No matter what skin colour, we all have light palms. It is because that's the way we are stacked when we are sprayed at the birth factory. I thought the light palms was due to hands against the wall - your being frisked.. Well it's like that around here.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted December 10, 2015 Share #48 Posted December 10, 2015 I thought the light palms was due to hands against the wall - your being frisked.. Well it's like that around here.. In Denmark, I'm shocked! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_tribble Posted December 11, 2015 Share #49 Posted December 11, 2015 I'd also recommend sticking with classic + manual settings and learning how to use these. I've hardly ever used EV compensation with the digital Ms - from M8 to M240. Basic technique is to identify a mid grey area in the image, meter and set exposure and aperture, reframe, and then shoot. The histogram is more useful than pre-view to check exposure. Alternatively in A mode, meter where you estimate a mid tone is and then lock exposure and re-compose.l I find this very reliable - even with horribly difficult light. Also, obviously, shoot RAW and then finalise the image in your preferred software. I use LR. See below: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/254090-m240-so-dark-so-grey/?do=findComment&comment=2946719'>More sharing options...
jmahto Posted December 11, 2015 Share #50 Posted December 11, 2015 One more item to consider. On the 240, it can be easy to accidentally touch the thumb scroll wheel on the back of the camera and change your exposure compensation. Check to see if it is at zero. This is why I don't set the camera to do compensation without simultaneously pressing the front button. PITA but saves me from accidental compensation. If I feel that metering can get fooled by bright area then I simply point the camera towards what I think should be properly exposed, half press to lock the exposure, point to my scene of interest and click. Of course I am using A mode. Do not have the patience to keep changing shutter speed in manual mode. For illustration, the following picture (sorry, no artistic value) was difficult to meter due to very bright and dark areas. I metered different areas (by pointing my camera and noting shutter speed change) and took four shots. This is my way of doing "manual" exposure bracketing. I selected the best in PP and processed lightly. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Checking histogram and full manual mode is for very careful shooting where I want to be absolute sure. In my case I don't bother with these for 99% of my shooting. I have known people (mostly beginners) who keep fiddling with metering modes for each shot. Not my cup of tea. I pickup my camera, shoot and then camera is out of my way. The way Leica M is supposed to be used (I can say that, can't I) Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Checking histogram and full manual mode is for very careful shooting where I want to be absolute sure. In my case I don't bother with these for 99% of my shooting. I have known people (mostly beginners) who keep fiddling with metering modes for each shot. Not my cup of tea. I pickup my camera, shoot and then camera is out of my way. The way Leica M is supposed to be used (I can say that, can't I) ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/254090-m240-so-dark-so-grey/?do=findComment&comment=2946908'>More sharing options...
d0c0m0 Posted December 11, 2015 Share #51 Posted December 11, 2015 I find it is hard to make M240 just like M9, even use LR. When I use my M9, that's amazing, see these attached photos. Maybe I need to learn more. Anyone else here? Same here. I tried out the new M 262 at a Leica store here in US; side by side with my M9. Both used 50 Lux, same ISO, same f/1.4 etc (tried to make sure their settings were as close as possible for picture comparison). Result was that the pictures from M 262 were a bit dark and red tone. I forgot to set the M 262 for DNG. So, the outputs were strictly out if camera JPG. Also did not want todo post processing (what was the point to manually make the M262 pictures as best or as close with the M9 pictures; wanted to see the CMOS characteristics...). Leica offered to take my M9 as trade in for the upgrade to M 262. Technology speaking, the M 262 met all my requirement for a only camera which is lighter (weight) than M 240, no video, no live view, no external EVF (preferred built in EVF instead), simpler in general, it is still the argument about CCD vs. CMOS. I have a Q as a backup camera. So, in a way, I already had a Leica CMOS camera (processor even newer than the M 240) ... CCD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbc 1944 Posted December 13, 2015 Share #52 Posted December 13, 2015 Take your 240 back to the dealer and ask for a new one. My first 240 underexposed consistently about 2 stops. The dealer compared it with a light meter (what the light meter read and what the camera meter read.). He also compared the jpegs from my camera with the same shots from his store model. In both cases my 240 was under exposing. He took the faulty camera back and Leica replaced it with a new 240 that worked perfectly. Suggest you go to your dealer and ask them to perform the same comparisons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alberti Posted December 14, 2015 Share #53 Posted December 14, 2015 Some out of camera JPG conversions are having a fast roll-off of the low end of the exposure - and of course the histogram reflects that, not what was in front of the camera. I use it (smooth colour film, sometime vivid) to get effects I can't get with post processing. So yes, I use it as part of the camera's capabilities. But it was hard to understand what happened here for me with the 'too' dark parts of the image. It is not just high contrast. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! So I would not just run for replacement . . Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! So I would not just run for replacement . . ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/254090-m240-so-dark-so-grey/?do=findComment&comment=2948650'>More sharing options...
Herr Barnack Posted December 14, 2015 Share #54 Posted December 14, 2015 Take your 240 back to the dealer and ask for a new one. My first 240 underexposed consistently about 2 stops. The dealer compared it with a light meter (what the light meter read and what the camera meter read.). He also compared the jpegs from my camera with the same shots from his store model. In both cases my 240 was under exposing. He took the faulty camera back and Leica replaced it with a new 240 that worked perfectly. Suggest you go to your dealer and ask them to perform the same comparisons. @2292528 - My M-P lives in the following configuration: Metering mode: Classic Film mode: Smooth color File format: DNG DNG compression: On Exposure compensation: Off Exposure metering: Multi field Shutter speed: "A" mode This configuration produces excellent exposure results almost all of the time, although there are times when I will have to select my own shutter speed rather than what "A" mode has chosen. That is only required in weird lighting situations, though. I would suggest trying the above configuration to see how that works out. If you are still experiencing exposure problems, at least take your M240 back to the dealer and ask them to troubleshoot it. Ask them to shoot a gray card and compare the results with those from another M240 or two; your meter could be out of whack, if your exposure compensation is set to off. I have used the meter off the palm of your hand method; being a medium colored caucasian type person, I would meter off my palm and shoot at +1EV over the indicated reading. This calculation is very close to dead on. It all depends on the reflectivity of your palm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share #55 Posted December 14, 2015 @2292528 - My M-P lives in the following configuration: Metering mode: Classic Film mode: Smooth color File format: DNG DNG compression: On Exposure compensation: Off Exposure metering: Multi field Shutter speed: "A" mode This configuration produces excellent exposure results almost all of the time, although there are times when I will have to select my own shutter speed rather than what "A" mode has chosen. That is only required in weird lighting situations, though. I would suggest trying the above configuration to see how that works out. If you are still experiencing exposure problems, at least take your M240 back to the dealer and ask them to troubleshoot it. Ask them to shoot a gray card and compare the results with those from another M240 or two; your meter could be out of whack, if your exposure compensation is set to off. I have used the meter off the palm of your hand method; being a medium colored caucasian type person, I would meter off my palm and shoot at +1EV over the indicated reading. This calculation is very close to dead on. It all depends on the reflectivity of your palm. Hey, Carlos Danger, thank you for your tips, I wil try that configurations. I bought it as second hand item, so it impossible to return. Actually, it is better than before, but I'm still love my M9 for its color. But M240 is really a good camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted December 17, 2015 Share #56 Posted December 17, 2015 They look underexposed to me. Certainly light areas will cause the meter/camera to underexpose, however your samples do not have enough light to cause this. Do not say shoot raw and fix later. The whole idea of JPEG is to get a decent but not perfect, image straight from the camera. Two choices, repair camera or apply compensation to exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke_Miller Posted December 17, 2015 Share #57 Posted December 17, 2015 As pop pointed out early on - all but one of the OPs images had negative exposure compensation applied. The first image was spot metered with -1 compensation. So setting exposure compensation to zero might be a good first step. The remaining images used center-weighted metering with -.33 compensation (save for the group shot against the wall). The light sources and bright back grounds in the shots look to me like exposures I would expect with classic metering (absent the compensation). Since I just replaced my M9 with the M-240 I am not yet that experienced with advanced metering, but I think matrix would have been a better choice for these shots. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FeralCoton Posted December 18, 2015 Share #58 Posted December 18, 2015 Hey, Carlos Danger, thank you for your tips, I wil try that configurations. I bought it as second hand item, so it impossible to return. Actually, it is better than before, but I'm still love my M9 for its color. But M240 is really a good camera. As I understand it the film mode setting only matters if you shoot DNG+jpeg. The mode won't affect the dng file. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alberti Posted January 9, 2016 Share #59 Posted January 9, 2016 As I understand it the film mode setting only matters if you shoot DNG+jpeg. The mode won't affect the dng file. It does however influence the rendering in-camera: the preview uses the film settings even if you have selected DNG-only. The DNG however is neutral. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted January 9, 2016 Share #60 Posted January 9, 2016 Some out of camera JPG conversions are having a fast roll-off of the low end of the exposure - and of course the histogram reflects that, not what was in front of the camera. I use it (smooth colour film, sometime vivid) to get effects I can't get with post processing. So yes, I use it as part of the camera's capabilities. But it was hard to understand what happened here for me with the 'too' dark parts of the image. It is not just high contrast. MP106407- RFF1.jpg So I would not just run for replacement . . It looks to me like the camera is trying to expose for the almost specular reflection off the wall, and the bright sky giving an underexposed foreground. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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