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Voigtlaender Hyper Wide-Heliar 10mm on Leica M8.2.

Burgenland, Austria.

 

28461935040_bccbbe08b8_b.jpg

 

I'd like very much to know how you achieved this please.

 

I was wondering whether you aren't on a tandem and your stoker took the picture with his/her arms around you - or a self-timer??

Edited by marcg
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Just testing my new Voigtlander Heliar III on the M240. Slight cropping minor editing and Heliar III Profile in Lightroom. Taken while in a moving vehicle. 

 

Note: I use a B+W XS Pro UV Filter

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Edited by stephengv
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I'd like very much to know how you achieved this please.

 

I was wondering whether you aren't on a tandem and your stoker took the picture with his/her arms around you - or a self-timer??

 

Hi Marc!

 

This was taken on my Klein Quantum, no tandem (:

Camera strapped to chest so that direction and FOV are correct, and then self-timer... this image was taken in a similar way, but with film and shutter release cable in my mouth:

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?p=3347183

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These film images are very well done, including the digitizing process. You wouldn't know at this, at least at this size, that they were first-generation film images.

 

Thanks for this comment! I spent (and still do!) some time to figure out the best development process for my films, and I found my own recipes besides the described and established methods. It might help that I am a chemist, so I understand how certain components affect the development. I am not mixing my own developers but use combinations of established ones in several steps. It is a bit more complicate than the "normal" process, but the final results provide me with good micro contrast and fairly low grain - the way I personally like my B&W negatives. I can make 11x14" prints in my darkroom from my negatives, and they look like they came from large size negatives and not from 35 mm size. 

 

Digitizing is not as critical - I am using a Plustek 8200i scanner with Silverfast 8 software. Only little PP is required afterwards - removal of a few dust spots and slight contrast/brightness changes. 

 

I am still in the process of testing different B&W films, but for me so far FP4+ 125 is one of the best. The film which most recommend - Tri-X 400 - is my least favorite one. I only like to use this one if I need to push the film to high ISO. This is very personal, others just might prefer to get a more grainy look in the photos. 

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I really hope you document your methods Martin. I’d hate for all that knowledge to be lost.

 

I do. I write every step of each development or print into a sort of lab journal. With pencil, the old-fashioned way which still works best because notes can be added easily which are often the best when looking back. My booklet might be a gem....I never published anything about this online.

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M9-P with Voigtlander 15 III.

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