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I understand.

 

I have found, particularly with the Noctilux, but also the 90 Summicron and 75 Summilux at short focussing distances that I need to set the aperture by reference to the anticipated depth of field.  Otherwise, the image becomes a little ... weird, or perhaps unnatural us a better way of looking at it.  A shallow depth of field is fine, but I find such images very hard to look at unless the depth of field matches the subject of the photo in some natural way.

 

The great thing about using M mount lenses on the SL is that things like purple fringing (Noctilux) and red edge (15 Distagon) are less of a problem.

 

Cheers

John

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x

The letter cutter
SL + 90-280SL. @ 280mm, ISO 640, f/4, 1/250s.

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Edited by pop
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Photo exhibition - both with SL and Canon 11/24 (adapted with Novoflex adapter)

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Lower Manhattan - SL with 50AA...unfortunately through a window mind you.

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A ceiling of a modern building in color and b&w. Both with SL and Canon 11/24 at

20 mm.

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Golden spoon with reflections - SL and Canon Macro 180 mm.

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Some bokeh studies with the Summilux-R 80 in our local botanical garden, 

 

30853578161_e3eb949bf7_o.jpgS1030065 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr  ISO 50, f/1.4

 

30853572651_ac9671d52e_o.jpgS1030084 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr  ISO 3220, f/8

 

30853580851_02d447235d_o.jpgS1030063 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr  ISO 250, f/4  ISO 400, f/5.6 (?)

 

30825197652_5945b2b434_o.jpgS1030074 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr  ISO 400, f/4(?)

 

 

30635703350_a9184368f8_o.jpgS1030118 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr  ISO 50, f/8

 

scott

 

 

Edited by scott kirkpatrick
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SL 24-90 @ 90mm

 

 

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Lexington Battle Green  - Test shot with Leica SL,  Leica Macro Elmarit-R 60mm f/2.8 w/Leica SL/M adaptor + Novaflex M/R adaptor. - Processed with DxO. https://www.flickr.com/photos/subhash_roy/25306697459/in/datetaken/

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Edited by scroy
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Lexington Battle Green  - Test shot with Leica SL,  Leica Macro Elmarit-R 60mm f/2.8 w/Leica SL/M adaptor + Novaflex M/R adaptor. - Processed with DxO. https://www.flickr.com/photos/subhash_roy/25306697459/in/datetaken/

 

Your sensor needs a good wet cleaning! Those two big blobs in the sky can be seen even in this small JPEG.

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Yes. Get one of the arctic butterfly spinning sensor brushes. You spin the bristles before you clean the sensor gently, and loose dust will stick to the brush. This is great for general maintenance in between wet cleaning intervals.

 

Your dirt is probably oil that came off the shutter blades, which is very common with new cameras and it takes a thorough wet cleaning to solve the problem. I recommend Eclipse 2 solution and a full-frame sensor swab. It says not to use too much cleaning fluid, but my experience has been to use a good 4-5 drops to really wet the swab. Then gently swipe the swab across the sensor. The remaining fluid will evaporate from the sensor.

 

I also use a sensor loupe that you lay over the lens mount. It has LEDs around the rim and it really shows you where the dirt is. I use this before cleaning and again after to make sure I got rid of the dirt. Then take a picture of some even sky at a large aperture (f11) and focus to a close focus distance. this shows off any dirt blobs immediately.

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Yup - pretty obvious   :( .  Any suggestions on how to clean the sensor?

 

 

 

First try a squeezy rubber bulb rocket blower or similar … and then if does not shift the crud try e.g. the Arctic Butterfly  … and if that does not work try a wet clean. 

 

dunk 

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There are lots of threads on sensor cleaning on this forum; just do a search. There is nothing on your images to suggest where your blobs came from or whether they require a wet clean. They could be loose dust that you can blow off with a rocket blower, slightly sticky dust (e.g. pollen) that requires an arctic butterfly-type brush to remove, or really stick stuff or oily marks that require a wet clean. That is the sequence of actions that I normally follow, from easiest to hardest. And I only worry about them if they show up on my images - forget the built-in dust spot detection system: it is unnecessarily scary!

 

I tend to shoot with a wider aperture, but if I occasionally use a small aperture, all sorts of grot shows up. If I'm lazy, I'll just spot them out in Lightroom or PS.

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Can't resist the best supermoon in over 70 years.  Using SL, APO-Telyt-R 280/4.0 and an APO 2x extender, here's my best from tonight.  

 

30928901276_3c22e2db96_o.jpgS1030129 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

 

ISO 400, 1/500, f/11.  Manual focus with focus magnification worked well.  The view with shutter half-pressed was clearest, but with magnification and moon filling the viewfinder, I could see the surface details clearly enough to focus handheld as well.  I used a tripod pointing straight up for the best shot, so that one was sighted with the LCD only.

 

scott 

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Okay, so I probably should have stopped down - ISO 100, 280mm, f/5.6 @ 1/2000 from a tripod, using the iPhone App

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Okay, so I probably should have stopped down - ISO 100, 280mm, f/5.6 @ 1/2000 from a tripod, using the iPhone App

I don't think the 280 requires any stop down for resolution.  To allow for focussing error, maybe.  I used f/5.6 + 2 stops for the 2X extender.  I notice that the moon is upside down when seen from NZ.

 

scott

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