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Here is one I took a couple days ago at the Berkeley marina.  There's a park overlooking the San Francisco Bay.  The bridge in the background is the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge.  The lens was a 180mm APO-Telyt-R set at f/4.  I hate the booked on this lens, but everything else is fantastic.  Conversion to monochrome was in Adobe Lightroom.  Leica SL at ISO 100, AWB, 1/350s exposure.

 

- Jared

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Good photos but on a forum the 'mounts' are rather overpowering - they look more mount than image - would prefer to see the images with no mounts. 

 

dunk

 

 

I have to agree with dunk i'm afraid.  They look to be good photos but they get a bit lost when presented in a relatively small size in thick, black mounts on a largely black page.  Please don't take offence - absolutely none is intended - I'd very much like to 'see' the photos in their full glory.

 

Pete.

 

 

Just for you information I'm viewing them on a 21" screen.

 

Pete.

 

 

I'm using a 23" monitor, and the image size is set by the grey background running from top to bottom of the screen.  That leaves me with your images typically 14 x 21 cm or thereabouts.  and the screen is 32 cm high.  I appreciate the need for a black or medium grey surround to establish the colors, but I liked the pictures and would have liked to see more of the details.

 

scott

 

 

Hi Dunk, Pete and Scott,

 

I took your advice seriously and played around with some different image export and display settings on my website.  I got rid of the grey background and bumped up the image size.  As the grey background was also playing the role of "centering" vertical and horizontal images on the grid, I had to adjust some CSS.

 

Can you please take a look at this "gallery" on my test website and see if you like it better:  http://www.peterwalkerphoto.net/peter/japan2016.html

 

It does increase the image file size a bit but these days most people are using faster connections.

 

Let me know if you like it and then I'll load it up into my main website.

 

Regards

Peter

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I liked it better with the mostly black backgrounds.  You could still use a bit more grey around the pictures while making their area bigger on the screen. Bigger because there is a lot of detail in the images, a little wider grey line because it brings out the reds and yellows in manga costumes.  Just my 2 agorot.

 

scott

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SL+Elmarit 24-90

 

May I introduce Karl Friedrich at the Hamburg January Studio Session...

Edited by Nikus
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Hi Dunk, Pete and Scott,

 

I took your advice seriously and played around with some different image export and display settings on my website.  I got rid of the grey background and bumped up the image size.  As the grey background was also playing the role of "centering" vertical and horizontal images on the grid, I had to adjust some CSS.

 

Can you please take a look at this "gallery" on my test website and see if you like it better:  http://www.peterwalkerphoto.net/peter/japan2016.html

 

It does increase the image file size a bit but these days most people are using faster connections.

 

Let me know if you like it and then I'll load it up into my main website.

 

Regards

Peter

 

 

Looks good to me, Peter! Nice sizing, nice presentation, quick (at least on this fast connection). 

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Trumpeter Swans, Henry's Fork, Idaho

SL 280mm Apo-Telyt-R, 24/90

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So when you are using an M lens on the SL and magnify to get critical focus... Do you guys find the image through the EVF shaking around a lot while you are getting critical focus? I remember using my 5D2 (and 5D3) to get critical focus while in live view... granted I was holding the camera so I could see the LCD instead of bracing it again my eye like someone would on the SL, but I remember anything over 35mm zoomed in would be pretty shaky to focus exactly.

Edited by animefx
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Not particularly depending on focal length in my experience.  I have no problems with a Noctilux or the 80 Summilux-R but the long end of the 80-200/4 Vario-Elmar-R is a bit wobbly.  It seems much less wobbly than I found with my M and EVF even at standard focal length.

 

Pete. 

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depends how much you have had to drink the night before .......

 

..... anyway with OIS on the 24-90 at 90mm image at full mag is rock solid .....

 

MF at 90mm is slightly jittery but the EVF resolution and clarity is so good that getting focus is quick and easy ...... and you can overlay peaking which makes it even easier ..... if the contrast is enough for it to show up.

 

Not tried longer lenses handheld ......

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Does anybody tested the M 135mm elmar on the SL?

I'ld love to see portrait shots with this lens on the SL.

 

thx already

 

Peter

 

I was trying out the 135/3.4 on the SL this morning.  It doesn't focus very close.  Technically, I think this qualifies as a portrait, although the subject, Leo, probably just thinks it was an interruption of his morning nap:

 

24116642450_039c33ce0f_h.jpgL1010190 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

 

I'll also take the 135 outside and see how it delivers on edge-to-edge images.

 

scott

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Wobbly focus?  Not a problem with focal lengths from 60 to 100 in good light, but when I have stopped down and half-press (which causes the camera to take long samples to get an accurate histogram) then the refresh rate of the viewfinder can go down, leading to wobbles.

 

scott 

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Anything that 'zooms' in as you put it - a telephoto lens - a pair of binoculars, a rifle sight or a telescope is always going to exaggerate movement.

 

You move a fraction, or shake a mm or two, by the time you get to any distance away you are going to see quite dramatic movement in the 'image'. Try using a rifle with a telescopic sight and then hold it on a target and see how important to stability and therefore accuracy, technique becomes!

 

Same with analogue/film cameras and long telephoto's. Holding the camera still becomes critical.

 

Live view focussing on long focal lengths is exactly the same. It has nothing to do with using an EVF that will magnify or anything to do with digital. Its all to do with geometry.

 

If you have issues with camera shake - because this is what it is - then you need to learn the correct technique hold the camera as still as possible.

 

An SL with a 35mm will, when 'zoomed in' to the maximum for accurate focussing (10x) will be much the same as adding a 350mm lens onto a standard body. So you WILL get camera shake. 

 

There are loads of videos and articles online where you can learn to hold the camera properly... but supporting the camera underneath, with the hand under the camera and lens, your forearm making a little support angle, with your elbow braced against your chest... then learning to breath properly and with the camera braced against you forehead, then you all get somewhere towards stability. 

 

All of this is something that will stand you in good stead anyway... but if you are holding a camera out in front of you, then you are almost certainly holding the camera like you would a iPhone camera... with the body being held by your fingers, either side  and away from your own body... in other words, just about the worst way you can ever hold a camera!

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I liked it better with the mostly black backgrounds.  You could still use a bit more grey around the pictures while making their area bigger on the screen. Bigger because there is a lot of detail in the images, a little wider grey line because it brings out the reds and yellows in manga costumes.  Just my 2 agorot.

 

scott

@peterbkk: Didn't want to quote myself, but it's too late to edit.  What I was trying to say is that I like the revised version better than the old one, but would be happy to see even bigger pictures.

 

scott

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Hi Scott,

 

Thx for the 'Leo' portrait, it looks nice, love to see more ;)

 

The 135mm I have in mind to buy is the f4(silver/black) version, I love the rendering of this lens on de M9/ monochrom but I'm curious what it will do on the SL.

I want to use it for concert B/W photography.

 

 

Best regards

Peter

Edited by Peter E
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Here are some more 135's.  It's pretty narrow field of view, but for concert work unless you have front row access, I can see its value.  The 135 Telyt/M is perhaps a little sharp for what you want but it will flare with the best of them.

 

24415928115_5ea9c8cf91_h.jpgL1010208 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

 

24333467381_4577b1a4d6_h.jpgL1010209 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

 

24415961925_cf237f4112_h.jpgL1010214 by scott kirkpatrick, on Flickr

 

scott

Edited by scott kirkpatrick
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Loves the outdoor life!

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