Indoor Photography and Flash Suggestion

[wda]

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Thanks to Paul for his contribution to this thread. I have been looking for an inexpensive wireless unit for very occasional flash use and based on Paul's advice also bought the Yongnuo RF602 transmitter and receiver. First tests are positive; but I do find the transmitter unit's retractable pins are over--large and highly sprung. I cannot insert it in my camera shoe easily and need an accessory device to help ease it into position. Perhaps with repeated use the fit will ease. Anyone else suffer with this slight problem?

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[lucianboboc]

Canon Speedlite flashes works with M240?

[Exodies]

I believe that Canon hotshoe pins are in a different position from Leica/Nikon ones. So, no.

[lucianboboc]

M8 or M9 ISO allow indoor photos without a flash in medium light conditions?

[Luke_Miller]

M8 or M9 ISO allow indoor photos without a flash in medium light conditions?

Generally yes in my experience, but often at the expense of DOF due to wider apertures.  I find I much prefer the colors (and DOF) when I use indirect (bounced) flash.  The beauty of the CCD sensor is found at modest ISO levels.  Also the center weighted metering is very much influenced my any light sources (like table lamps) which may be in the scene.  This typically results in under exposure that then can bring undesired ISO noise into view when processing.  But if one is careful to lock exposure using a composition that excludes the light source this can be avoided.

[Echo63]

Canon Speedlite flashes works with M240?

I believe that Canon hotshoe pins are in a different position from Leica/Nikon ones. So, no.

Yes and no.

 

Every manufacturer has a specific flash pin layout - but in all cases (except minolta/sony with their weird backwards hotshoe) they have the ability to fire "dumb" flashes with the centre pin and the edge of the hotshoe.

Different manufacturers also have a different protocol for controlling the flashes with ETTL - basically each manufacturers flash speaks a different language (and the manufacturers dont publish their flash language, so 3rd party manufacturers have to crack the code first, some are more succesful than others

 

Canon flashes will fire on a Leica M, but wont do all the fancy bits (ETTL, High Speed Sync, zoom according to lens FL, adjust camera WB to match gels on flash etc)

So you have two choices - manual mode - like a studio light, you set the power, and it fires at that power.

Or "Auto" mode (also called Thryistor or Magic Eye mode)

On the 580EX2 (not on the 580EX or 550EX, not sure about the 430series and havent tried it on the 600s) you cans et a custom function to turn off ETTL mode and turn on the Auto mode.

All the camera does is tell the flash when to fire, the photographer has to set aperture and iso on the flash, and the flash uses the "magic eye" on the front to judge when the scene is lit well enough - it works surprisingly well, but can be confused by overly light or dark scenes (the good old "bride in a blizzard" or "black cat in a coalmine)

 

I am about to crawl into bed after a long day, i will dig into the manual and find out which custom function turns "auto mode" on for a 580EX2 - and will try to remember to check the 600EX manual and see if it has a "Auto" mode, and if it works on the M

[jto555]

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Yes and no.

 

Every manufacturer has a specific flash pin layout - but in all cases (except minolta/sony with their weird backwards hotshoe) they have the ability to fire "dumb" flashes with the centre pin and the edge of the hotshoe.

Different manufacturers also have a different protocol for controlling the flashes with ETTL - basically each manufacturers flash speaks a different language (and the manufacturers dont publish their flash language, so 3rd party manufacturers have to crack the code first, some are more succesful than others

 

Canon flashes will fire on a Leica M, but wont do all the fancy bits (ETTL, High Speed Sync, zoom according to lens FL, adjust camera WB to match gels on flash etc)

So you have two choices - manual mode - like a studio light, you set the power, and it fires at that power.

Or "Auto" mode (also called Thryistor or Magic Eye mode)

On the 580EX2 (not on the 580EX or 550EX, not sure about the 430series and havent tried it on the 600s) you cans et a custom function to turn off ETTL mode and turn on the Auto mode.

All the camera does is tell the flash when to fire, the photographer has to set aperture and iso on the flash, and the flash uses the "magic eye" on the front to judge when the scene is lit well enough - it works surprisingly well, but can be confused by overly light or dark scenes (the good old "bride in a blizzard" or "black cat in a coalmine)

 

I am about to crawl into bed after a long day, i will dig into the manual and find out which custom function turns "auto mode" on for a 580EX2 - and will try to remember to check the 600EX manual and see if it has a "Auto" mode, and if it works on the M

I did not know that! What custom function number is it?

[Echo63]

I did not know that! What custom function number is it?

I just had to look it up, i posted this in another flash thread here at LUF - its Custom Function 5-3 on the 580EX2

I will have a look at the 600EXRT manual when i get to work and see if i can figure it out with that flash too

 

from the Canon DLC website

Setting external auto flash on the 580EX II

1. Press the illumination/C.Fn button on the back of the 580EX II for at least two seconds until the Speedlite’s display changes.

2. Turn the flash unit’s control dial until “Fn 05” (Speedlite Custom Function 5) appears.

3. Press the Speedlite’s SET button to make the second digit blink on and off; while it is blinking, turn the control dial on the flash unit until option 3 appears (Fn 05-3). By doing this, you have now set the flash to perform standard, traditional external flash metering.

[brill64]

you might also consider upping the lighting in your room with an ac powered constant tungsten or tungsten balanced light like the small Tota-light on a lightstand & bounce that off a wall or ceiling for soft & natural effect. this way you can move around at a reasonable shutter speed & iso without flashing everywhere.

[TRIago]

I use flash as much as I can. Usually iso 400, and 35mm cron asph @ f2.

 

My flash is a Nikon SB-30 and I use it with the M9.

 

http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/NikonF5/Flash/SB30/SB30RearView.jpg

 

The less power, the better. So I don't scare the people I'm shooting. If you click the link, I use it M1/32 and also -1/2. Last but not least I have homemade solution to the flash where I did add white layers in front of the light. It doesn't bother the people I'm shooting at all. And I still have out of focus backgrounds and the in focus areas are really really sharp.

 

When it is too bright or too dark, I usually tweak the ISO a bit or add a bit more power to the flash - if that's the case.

[jto555]

Anyway, here is a sample of a Godox Ving 850 in a brolly on manual flash indoors

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[Enbee]

I finally bought SF26 - Since I am a flash virgin - I thought it may be easier to try it rather than all the other great suggestions - we have had! Thank You again for your help! 

[ECohen]

Hello Enbee...If your still following your thread 

 

You've had your flash(SF26) a while. How do you like it ?  Does it suite all your needs? 

 

I ask because I would like to take advantage of the M's TTL and I'm considering the SF26 or the 40

 

I like the size and weight of the 26 but there is something to be said for the versatility of the 40 and it's recycle time.

 

So whats the verdict? .......Anything you hate about the SF26?

 

If you had it to do over again ...which would your choose?

 

Thanks in advance for your advice