jaques Posted October 13, 2015 Share #21 Posted October 13, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) you can jury rig a flash sytem out of old flashes and bits and pieces that cost next to nothing at agarage sales. This shot was outdoors, in deep shade, old $2 Metz flash on a stand off camera softened with a sheet of paper, with an old synch cable and hot shoe adaptor: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! this one was same flash bounced off a white roof with my $5 elmar: Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! this one was same flash bounced off a white roof with my $5 elmar: ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/251224-studio-flash-and-leica-m-240/?do=findComment&comment=2903692'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 13, 2015 Posted October 13, 2015 Hi jaques, Take a look here Studio Flash and Leica M 240. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tobey bilek Posted October 13, 2015 Share #22 Posted October 13, 2015 Paul C Buff makes a nice line. I bought an Einstein unit , stand , large softbox, wireless triggers as a gift. I am looking to replace my old Normans with new Einsteins. 640WS and it dials down to shoot at F2 with the box very close if you want. Model lights track the flash power setting or can be manually set. No matter what you decide, get TALL heavy stands WITH WIDE LEG SPREAD SO you or customer does not topple them. My stands are 13 feet and the recommended one sold by Buff for that unit. Tall ones are made stronger even if you do not fully extend them and only tall ones have the nice wide base. A ceiling hang system is even better. One unit and a reflector is all you need for single person portraits. The bigger the light modifier and the closer to the subject it is used, the softer the light and smoother and longer the transition between highlights and shadows. If you want character portraits of old men, the smaller the modifier and further away the better. It will show every facial wrinkle and blemish. Umbrellas are hard to use in reflector mode in low 8 foot ceiling rooms and they are hard to move in close. Best to use shoot thru style umbrella or softbox. We just connect to M with a Wein Safe Sync or Buff Cyber Sync. The Cyber sync has a single contact but it has to face toward you. Don`t ask how I know. Read instructions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewDD Posted October 13, 2015 Share #23 Posted October 13, 2015 I use wireless triggers and the nice thing about the M is that the sync speed isn't fudged so you can shoot at the maximum sync speed of 1/180 with wireless triggers. I was going to say the exact opposite! I have used my M with studio flash and had great results. However, especially with wireless triggers, I have found it much better to use it on 1/125th. When I have used the max sync speed I've often had a shadow down one site of the images. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exodies Posted October 13, 2015 Share #24 Posted October 13, 2015 I've also had a black stripe with radio sync and 180th. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted October 13, 2015 Share #25 Posted October 13, 2015 I use up to 3 Buff Einstein units with PW. On the M240 and MF Grip I use the SCA Adapter for the PW as I use the EVF for my fine focusing. I like studio flash that can allow flash syncs of 1/6000 or higher of course depending on power setting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted October 13, 2015 Share #26 Posted October 13, 2015 I was going to say the exact opposite! I have used my M with studio flash and had great results. However, especially with wireless triggers, I have found it much better to use it on 1/125th. When I have used the max sync speed I've often had a shadow down one site of the images. I was going to say the exact opposite! I have used my M with studio flash and had great results. However, especially with wireless triggers, I have found it much better to use it on 1/125th. When I have used the max sync speed I've often had a shadow down one site of the images. To bring this back on topic ...It began with shooting Studio Portraits with "studio strobes" When shooting in the studio the strobe decides the "shutter speed" The camera at 1/60th or 1/180.... there is no difference .....if your not using ambient light and in the studio your not What does "fudging mean" ? As long as the shutter is open and the flash has time to expose fully....... whats the difference ? Better said is the good thing about the M is that it syncs at 1/180 this matters when you are "filling in with flash and using ambient light. Better to help you stop ghosting. What did I miss? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted October 13, 2015 Share #27 Posted October 13, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) I always set my flash speed to the red flash mark on the speed dial between 125 and 250. Why reinvent the wheel? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted October 13, 2015 Share #28 Posted October 13, 2015 I always set my flash speed to the red flash mark on the speed dial between 125 and 250. Why reinvent the wheel? You are 100% correct....I got in the habit of setting it slower because cameras used to be mechanical and the shutter speeds were always off. Now they are electronic and probably never off? Anybody know if electronic cameras shutter speeds drift ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exodies Posted October 13, 2015 Share #29 Posted October 13, 2015 To bring this back on topic ...It began with shooting Studio Portraits with "studio strobes" When shooting in the studio the strobe decides the "shutter speed" The camera at 1/60th or 1/180.... there is no difference .....if your not using ambient light and in the studio your not What does "fudging mean" ? As long as the shutter is open and the flash has time to expose fully....... whats the difference ? Better said is the good thing about the [/size]M is[/size] that it syncs at 1/180 this matters when you are "filling in with flash and using ambient light. Better to help you stop ghosting.[/size] What did I miss?[/size] What did you miss? You misread what AndrewDD wrote. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewDD Posted October 14, 2015 Share #30 Posted October 14, 2015 I always set my flash speed to the red flash mark on the speed dial between 125 and 250. Why reinvent the wheel? Because, especially if you are using wireless triggers, that is actually slightly too fast. The second shutter curtain comes across too early (just before the flash actually goes off) and you get a shadow down the side of the image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted October 14, 2015 Share #31 Posted October 14, 2015 I was going to say the exact opposite! I have used my M with studio flash and had great results. However, especially with wireless triggers, I have found it much better to use it on 1/125th. When I have used the max sync speed I've often had a shadow down one site of the images. It depends on the trigger and the distance. But I have no issues with my Quadras or Godox lights in studio at 1/180. Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted October 14, 2015 Share #32 Posted October 14, 2015 To bring this back on topic ...It began with shooting Studio Portraits with "studio strobes" When shooting in the studio the strobe decides the "shutter speed" The camera at 1/60th or 1/180.... there is no difference .....if your not using ambient light and in the studio your not What does "fudging mean" ? As long as the shutter is open and the flash has time to expose fully....... whats the difference ? Better said is the good thing about the M is that it syncs at 1/180 this matters when you are "filling in with flash and using ambient light. Better to help you stop ghosting. What did I miss? Fudging means that some companies (yep Sony, I'm looking T you.) overstate their actual speeds. Sony say max normal sync is 1/250 but that's only if you use a Sony flash in TTL mode. It's actually between 1/125 and 1/180 for studio flash, even hard wired. Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppyman Posted October 14, 2015 Share #33 Posted October 14, 2015 Because, especially if you are using wireless triggers, that is actually slightly too fast. The second shutter curtain comes across too early (just before the flash actually goes off) and you get a shadow down the side of the image. Andrew, that is not necessarily so. I have shot some hundreds of frames in studio with Elinchrom units and their wireless system with no problem (1/180). I have little experience with other camera brands however. It may vary from brand to brand of wireless trigger system perhaps regarding the timing/duration of the flash. There are variables regarding how the camera and flash options are set of course. At workshops I have encountered differences with other (more expensive) systems. In any event, providing your ambient light level is not too high, there is no problem with using a slower sync speed of course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewDD Posted October 15, 2015 Share #34 Posted October 15, 2015 Andrew, that is not necessarily so. I didn't say it was always the case, but it definitely is sometimes. I originally brought it up answering a post which stated that you can always use 1/180th. You can't. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted October 15, 2015 Share #35 Posted October 15, 2015 Because, especially if you are using wireless triggers, that is actually slightly too fast. The second shutter curtain comes across too early (just before the flash actually goes off) and you get a shadow down the side of the image. I've had no problems like this with either speed lights or Profoto Acute B2 (and pocket wizards) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echo63 Posted October 15, 2015 Share #36 Posted October 15, 2015 In any event, providing your ambient light level is not too high, there is no problem with using a slower sync speed of course. no problems with occasionally going over the sync speed either...If you are shooting outdoors, and the "black bar" isnt affecting a flash lit part of the image (like the sky, or something out of range) you can cheat a little by going a bit over the sync speed to gain an extra half stop or so ambient killing ability if you really need it. For the first time i can remember i had troubles with the work elinchrom gear and my 1DX yesterday Was getting a tiny black streak across the top of the frame at sync speed (1/250) - glad i could crop it out, but it was still a little frustrating - as i didnt see it on the LCD, only back at my desk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppyman Posted October 15, 2015 Share #37 Posted October 15, 2015 That is an interesting aspect. I haven't done any fill flash photography with any M camera at all. All of my flash use has been in studio without any significant ambient light to consider. Well my M is now retired for studio in favour of the S2 and with the central shutter lens flash sync can be higher. I tested to 1/500th. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted October 15, 2015 Share #38 Posted October 15, 2015 I didn't say it was always the case, but it definitely is sometimes. I originally brought it up answering a post which stated that you can always use 1/180th. You can't. To be fair, I never said "always". I said you can. Because the sync speed on an M is a true mechanical speed you can, unlike some other brands that massage their sync speed figures. Some brand quote a normal sync speed that cannot be used with studio lights without banding. There's usually some *** with some 1 pt type disclaimer at the bottom of page 107. Certainly if the flash system triggers have delay then you have issues, but that's not the cameras fault. It's an issue with the flash system's delay or output duration. It would be an you'd see on any other system as well, using the same lights. So I don't think it fair to blame that on the camera. I shoot skyports in studio and Godox on location at least 4 days per week and I almost always shoot at 1/180. Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.