pinchers of peril Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share #61 Posted February 3, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/249676-first-test-roll-from-my-m6/?do=findComment&comment=2981818'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 3, 2016 Posted February 3, 2016 Hi pinchers of peril, Take a look here First test roll from my M6. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Martin B Posted February 3, 2016 Share #62 Posted February 3, 2016 The grain definitely seems finer with the T-max than the Tri-X. I actually like both of them. The Tri-X feels a little bit more "gritty" and the T-max seems a little smoother. +1. I made exactly the same experience. So far I personally prefer TMax, but the Tri-X isn't bad either and provides a bit more of antique mood in the photo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted February 3, 2016 Share #63 Posted February 3, 2016 T-Max is a very nice, modern emulsion. Less grainy appearance in part because of the T-shaped grain, as I've understood it. One thing to note if one develops at home is that T-Max requires longer time in the fixer unless one uses for instance Kodak Rapid Fixer. I use Ilford's fixer and have to fix for more than double the time. The negs will otherwise come out pink/purple which is no problem because one can just dump them back in the fixer for additional time. Also T-Max exhausts the fixer faster than other films. This explains it - I was wondering why my TMax negatives had a slight purple cast. Invisible to the eye, but when I photographed my negatives to digitize them, the RAW file revealed the slight remaining color. Didn't see this with my Tri-X film. Okay, will keep it next time a bit longer in the fixer (I had it in there for 5 minutes and washed with Kodak Hypo Wash afterwards before doing the water wash). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted February 3, 2016 Share #64 Posted February 3, 2016 Bright sunny beautiful day, full detail in the shadows, accurate colors, great looking models, what is there not to like. Wayne 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kupo43 Posted February 3, 2016 Share #65 Posted February 3, 2016 Great shots OP! So you pushed the 400 one stop in the camera? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinchers of peril Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share #66 Posted February 3, 2016 Yes, I had the rear dial on my M6 set to 200. I actually shoot all my 400 film this same way and it seems to turn out well. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted February 5, 2016 Share #67 Posted February 5, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) had it in there for 5 minutes and washed with Kodak Hypo Wash afterwards before doing the water wash). My fixer is currently a year old and I've lost track of how many rolls I've developed in it but last week I fixed tmax for about 15 minutes and that did the trick. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kupo43 Posted February 9, 2016 Share #68 Posted February 9, 2016 Yes, I had the rear dial on my M6 set to 200. I actually shoot all my 400 film this same way and it seems to turn out well. I also am expecting my first rolls from M6 back shortly. Would you mind if I posted them in your thread? I figured it would be better than starting another thread asking for feedback. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinchers of peril Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share #69 Posted February 10, 2016 I also am expecting my first rolls from M6 back shortly. Would you mind if I posted them in your thread? I figured it would be better than starting another thread asking for feedback. Please post away. The more the merrier! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kupo43 Posted February 11, 2016 Share #70 Posted February 11, 2016 (edited) So shooting on Tri-X. Wow. The inky contrast and grain is fantastic. Really wanted to see what low light performance was like so most of my shots are in darker environments. Still, some nice shots. Edited February 11, 2016 by Kupo43 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kupo43 Posted February 11, 2016 Share #71 Posted February 11, 2016 First roll of Portra 400. Tones are excellent I think although I'll need to do some portraits and see how skin registers. Shot of man crossing the street is cropped significantly and the detail holds up very well. Love film! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jip Posted February 11, 2016 Share #72 Posted February 11, 2016 You've got to overexpose Portra 400 by one stop to get lower grain and higher dynamic range from your scans... Also how your film is scanned is very important, and yes... it is film and is best viewed after correct development, and correct scanning AFTER actually printing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinchers of peril Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share #73 Posted February 11, 2016 (edited) Wow these are great. I'm surprised you were able to get that shot with the "Salsa" sign. That looks like pretty low light for a 400 speed film especially if you are over exposing. Do you just have crazy steady hands?.. ha ha Are you self developing or using a lab? I don't have any labs close by and I haven't started self developing yet so I'm always having to mail my stuff out. I've used FIND lab and also The Darkroom. Edited February 11, 2016 by pinchers of peril Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kupo43 Posted February 11, 2016 Share #74 Posted February 11, 2016 Wow these are great. I'm surprised you were able to get that shot with the "Salsa" sign. That looks like pretty low light for a 400 speed film especially if you are over exposing. Do you just have crazy steady hands?.. ha ha Are you self developing or using a lab? I don't have any labs close by and I haven't started self developing yet so I'm always having to mail my stuff out. I've used FIND lab and also The Darkroom. Thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't say they are crazy steady, but I can hit low shutter speed shots sometimes. The rest of the shots from this restaurant I either didn't nail or weren't interesting if that says anything. I live in Atlanta so luckily I have a great place called Dunwoody Photo that I got these developed and scanned at. I have used North Coast Photo for a couple of years and they're amazing as well. NCP will send your scans directly to you through a FTTP service and its fantastic. You just send your film off and in a few days they'll give you amazing digital copies of all your film. The service only cost an extra dollar. I just bought a Plustek 8200 so hopefully once my film is developed I'll be able to scan my own photos in good quality. I'll test it out if it gets here tonight from Amazon. I'd like to start developing my own film as well but that entire process intimidates me. I'm going to push my next roll of Portra like everyone suggests. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted February 11, 2016 Share #75 Posted February 11, 2016 I think your shots look fine too. Several of us here use a Plustek and love it. However, there is a bit of a learning curve you need to complete before you will be totally happy with it. Once you do, then learn how to process your own negatives. The hardest part is learning how to spool them on the reels, the rest is like making cookies, you just follow basic instructions. The last step is learning how to wet print your B&W, there it really gets fun. Wayne Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted February 12, 2016 Share #76 Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) I'm going to push my next roll of Portra like everyone suggests. Your results look excellent. Just a minor point but worth making IMO is that overexposing film (by shooting at a slower box speed e.g. Portra at ISO 200) is not the same as pushing film. The latter involves underexposing (e.g. shooting Portra as if it was ISO 800) and altering the development to compensate for that underexposure. Edited February 12, 2016 by wattsy Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted February 12, 2016 Share #77 Posted February 12, 2016 Hi Martin I should have added, I realise now, that in addition to longer fixing purple cast often can be minimised by simply leaving the film on the spiral in (distilled/clean) water for 10-15 minutes (this also works for Acros 100). brphilip This explains it - I was wondering why my TMax negatives had a slight purple cast. Invisible to the eye, but when I photographed my negatives to digitize them, the RAW file revealed the slight remaining color. Didn't see this with my Tri-X film. Okay, will keep it next time a bit longer in the fixer (I had it in there for 5 minutes and washed with Kodak Hypo Wash afterwards before doing the water wash). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted February 12, 2016 Share #78 Posted February 12, 2016 Hi Martin I should have added, I realise now, that in addition to longer fixing purple cast often can be minimised by simply leaving the film on the spiral in (distilled/clean) water for 10-15 minutes (this also works for Acros 100). br Philip Hi Philip, thanks so much for letting me know! I realized the last time that I developed this film that longer time in Hypo Wash and longer washing/rinsing cycles afterwards made a difference which fits your observation. I will try next time your method having the film reel sitting in water after the regular wash! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted February 12, 2016 Share #79 Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Two examples of my recent TMax 400 film development with D76, stock solution (undiluted). Pushed the film one stop shooting with ISO 200 with my M6. Uncropped, photos taken with Leica 35/2 (version IV). Digitized by photographing the negatives with my Sony A7R and Sigma 105/2.8 macro lens in 1:1 magnification. Edited February 12, 2016 by Martin B 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted February 12, 2016 Share #80 Posted February 12, 2016 Looks like a winning combination to me. I've used a DSLR on negatives before with mixed results. Yours look fine. Wayne 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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