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Hi There Rocky

This looks very valuable . However, personally I use Aperture rather than LR, and I've long since stopped worrying. I like the colour (perhaps the Apple presets are gentler).

 

In daylight I always shoot 'Daylight' - usually I'm satisfied with the WB, sometimes not, but generally speaking I've found that slightly shifting the red hue towards yellow solves most problems. Like Indergaard, I think of the M as filmstock, and shoot WB presets to keep it consistent (actually, I do this with all cameras). Works for me.

All the best

Jono Slack

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Glad its working out for you :). I got the idea from watching a particular episode in adventure time (believe it or not). As for getting the values its just trial and error hence why I think there's plenty of room for improvements.

 

Would it be a problem for you to create small screenshots of all the changed values so one could recreate the profile on it's own?

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Sure, its attached below. The values for curves are:

 

Reds 22/22, 54.5/52.5

Green 8.2/8.6, 48,6/47.1

Blue 23.9/24.7, 42.7/43.9

 

I'm not sure if it would behave the same way on other programs as I have no way to test it but it should work if you use camera raw and photoshop which is essentially where lightroom gets its settings.

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  • 2 months later...
Its been over a year since the M was released and I've had lots of fun and struggles through my journey with the M240...

 

It's been two months since you posted this, and I would like to thank you once again for sharing this with us.

I was trying to calibrate the camera with Colorchecker, even bought the QPCard, but the best results in 90% came with your adjustments.

I do play with the highlights, shadows, whites and blacks, and adjust saturation accordingly. The only thing I changed was saturation and luminance for blue in HSL. What you created really pleases my eyes.

 

Anyhow, this is really appreciated from my side. I wish there are more posts like this one.

 

Thanks!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...
It's been two months since you posted this, and I would like to thank you once again for sharing this with us.

I was trying to calibrate the camera with Colorchecker, even bought the QPCard, but the best results in 90% came with your adjustments.

I do play with the highlights, shadows, whites and blacks, and adjust saturation accordingly. The only thing I changed was saturation and luminance for blue in HSL. What you created really pleases my eyes.

 

Anyhow, this is really appreciated from my side. I wish there are more posts like this one.

 

Thanks!!!

 

Thanks for the feedback and the kind words! Sorry for my late reply I've been away on a holiday. I'm glad it's working out for you and I hope to further improve it in the future.

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  • 2 weeks later...

thank you for sharing your findings. I tried the settings based on the screenshots you posted. My way to describe it is, pictures look more "cinematic" and have better "depth" with your settings. The difference is VERY subtle compared to the basic adjustments I usually make. But it is definitely an improvement in terms of color and depth. The Santa red looks even more "santa red" in the pictures I took during x'mas haha

 

Based on what mirekti's experience, i may hold onto buying the color checker for now. Continue to enjoy shooting...thanks again!

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Thanks for the feedback guys! I'm glad they're working out for you :). I have just spent a good few weeks shooting with the m8 and I'm trying to get a sense of the old school look that I can get from it. I've been working on a preset that is good for both bw and colour. It'll be a similar adjustment to the one I posted earlier but this one will give and old school look for black and white or tighten the darks in colour pictures. There's also a slight change in colour palettes which I'm not able to describe yet but can be pleasing for lots of pictures. Will update once I finish refining it.

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Thanks rirakuma for posting this, I find your profile often works very well and I've gotten some better results than I recall getting from Colorchecker.

 

When I look at your calibration it seems counterintuitive. I wouldn't have thought an increase in red saturation would be the right way to go, but it works and that's all that matters.

 

Much appreciated!

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Would like to add my thanks as well. This is the sort of sharing which adds a lot of value for forum members.

 

In many cases rirakuma's profile has made subtle improvements. In some, esp. skin tones on white Caucasian subjects, I have needed to dial back the red. In fact I am intrigued as to why dialing it up (being "counter-intuitive") works so well for many subjects.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you so much for sharing this. I was getting pretty desperate about the M 240 colors and spent considerable time processing in C1, Lightroom 5.7 and Photoshop - nothing seemed to work. Your main color presets really worked a miracle even on my sunlit winter landscapes that were all blue. They now have a very natural look.

 

Eva

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I would recomend this film on color management. Using the colorchecker can secure right color in a critical shoot, or you can have som "pre made" profiles for different light condition made really easy :)

 

 

The theory is there and I tried with Colorchecker and QPcard, however as if there is something in between (maybe me :)) that messes things up.

I had no luck with those profiles.

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I tried to make profiles wit QPCalibration, Adobe DNG Profile Editor, Passport, QPCard, regular Gretag-Macbeth target and Passport target. I got most satisfactory results with QPCard + QPCalibration and GMB Color Checker + Adobe DNG Editor. Passport made profiles with some colors too saturated.

 

I found that the process of creating profiles is not very repeatable outside of studio conditions. The target needs to be very evenly lit and there should not be any color (like leaves, walls cars, etc.) reflected to it. So I ended up with three profiles and I use the one that gives the most pleasant colors for the particular conditions and subjects.

 

You can find those profiles zipped up at elsners.org/misc/m240-profiles-mirek.zip.

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I would recomend this film on color management. Using the colorchecker can secure right color in a critical shoot, or you can have som "pre made" profiles for different light condition made really easy :)

 

 

Thanks for posting this, I will watch it shortly :). I actually have a colorchecker but haven't really been bothered to use it. I was originally going to use it if I end up getting more product or food shoots but no cigar. I'm actually thinking of really committing into film so I can get a broader understanding of colour in photography but this should be an interesting video.

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I don't fool with profiles. I use LR and sometimes develop separate files for printing and viewing.

 

If the light is right the Leica can produce decently.

 

rangefindercamera3 : Photo

 

If light is drab, the Leica does not do so well.

 

I'm not a landscaper, I am a doc photog. I don't have much interest in landscapes. But I had to put a few landscape shots in my latest artists' book.

 

(nsfw)

 

De Wallen - Amsterdam's Red Light District

 

Most of the daylight shots are M240. All of the sex tool shots and most of the night shots are Fuji X.

Edited by dant
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Thanks for the profiles.

They can be hit or miss though, as they tend to make reds very strange some times.

 

I find using the Embedded profile with my SpyderCheckr Pro profiles giving the best results in Adobe's products. I do however prefer Capture One Pro 8.1's profiles more, especially when greens and reds are involved.

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This thread puts me in mind of the philosophy of the different manufacturers in the colour film era. There were, in effect, two competing approaches.

 

The first, generally associated with Kodak, was to get as near as possible to correct colour representation across as wide a colour gamut as possible. Literally millions of $USD were spent chasing this objective.

 

The second, generally associated with Fuji, was to achieve the colour rendering which, under normal viewing conditions, most satisfied the viewer.

 

The result could perhaps best be summarised as a "Score Draw".

 

I have recently re-calibrated my entire workflow and now use the profiles generated by my SpyderCheckr. One morning recently, as part of a local project, I took some pictures in the local museum's archive store room with mixed fluorescent lighting using my M240. That afternoon I took along some A4 prints to a meeting of the project group which was held in a room lit by daylight from large windows. Direct comparison was therefore possible between the subjects and the prints. Something photographers of old avoided if at all possible.

 

The results were frankly astonishing the colours were as near to the original as could realistically be desired. Some of the people in the pictures however were not convinced about the skin tones.

 

Accuracy or Acceptability? That is the question!

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Accuracy is an illusion. There are vast cultural differences in colour perception.

I rather see the colour rendering of Kodak as catering to the USA preference, Fuji to the East-Asian and Agfa to the European one.

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Accuracy is an illusion. There are vast cultural differences in colour perception.

I rather see the colour rendering of Kodak as catering to the USA preference, Fuji to the East-Asian and Agfa to the European one.

 

I'm not sure this argument is the correct way round.

 

Accuracy is a matter of measurement and direct comparison. Cultural differences should play no part.

 

Acceptability is an entirely different matter and cultural differences have been established as playing a significant role. Films were indeed balanced for different markets. However some professional films, including those from different manufacturers, were supplied universally with the same profile.

 

Leica can at best supply a profile which is "average" from the point of view of acceptability. Using profiles generated by equipment like the SpyderCheckr will tend to give higher accuracy - but it might well be not what is wanted!

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