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Hand holding. Higher than focal lengths required for me.

Guest Gilgamesh

By Guest Gilgamesh
in Leica M (Type 240 / 262)

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jaapv

jaapv

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Having to take ten shots to get one sharp one doesn't make it sound like a very reliable method. Not exactly decisive moment stuff.
No -but not getting it is worse - and you forget the six ones that were fit to use, certainly better than cranking up the ISO. And what would you suggest as a method with no camera support available?.
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250swb

250swb

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Why is ISO and a bit of 'grain' such a disadvantage? With film it was perfectly OK, are your film pictures now unusable, do you disown them? Even with a bit of digital noise through higher ISO a digital file can be cleaned up a bit, and at a higher shutter speed it will be sharp (although grainy). I think this thing about hand holding at slow shutter speeds comes down to trying to prove, or live up to, the equipment, and not just doing something sensible for the photograph. It's like being stuck in a theoretical game, just follow the ingrained myth about Leica's and hand holding and you win, but the photograph loses. It's trying to live up to 24mp and low ISO as a perfect example of craft/skill, rather than living up to the image you made as a good picture, which if it is good it still will be at high grainy ISO or not.

 

Steve

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Jeff S

Jeff S

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I prefer good photos to sharp photos, but another technique to help achieve the latter (that I don't recall seeing yet in the thread) is to use continuous shooting mode at reasonably fast speeds. I rarely do so, content to use single shot mode (or a tripod when circumstances dictate), but others may.

 

Jeff

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almoore

almoore

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I posted a consecutive series of ten 35 mm shots @ 1/4 sec on this forum. one was really blurred, two on the soft side but usable, six perfectly fine and one really sharp

 

Are you really claiming that your hands are so steady that you can realistically expect nine out ten images taken handheld at a quarter of a second to be usable?

 

Unless you were sitting down with your elbows braced against a table, this isn't remotely credible with a non-stabilised camera.

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Guest redge

Guest redge

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Gilgamesh,

 

If you're near a dealer, try the hand grip. I got one (multifunctional in my case), and I think that it has noticeably improved the camera's handling, including steadiness. Coming from an M3, the camera felt big/awkward. The grip has really helped.

 

Cheers

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jaapv

jaapv

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Are you really claiming that your hands are so steady that you can realistically expect nine out ten images taken handheld at a quarter of a second to be usable?

 

Unless you were sitting down with your elbows braced against a table, this isn't remotely credible with a non-stabilised camera.

I did post proof… I am supposed to be able to do high-precision work under a microscope handheld.

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thighslapper

thighslapper

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Are you really claiming that your hands are so steady that you can realistically expect nine out ten images taken handheld at a quarter of a second to be usable?

 

Unless you were sitting down with your elbows braced against a table, this isn't remotely credible with a non-stabilised camera.

 

.... sorry .... but this is perfectly possible .... in fact I set auto iso to 1/8sec as my minimum speed when using 35mm ... this is one of a whole evenings shooting in a house just lit by candles ..... 1/6sec, iso 1000, 28mm f 5.6 ...... as sharp as you will get at this iso... :)

 

.... my rule of thumb is f/4 for shutter speed below 35mm....

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pico

pico

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Personally I have a very strong right arm from many, many years of vigorous excercise... That is key to a steady arm

 

 

If you have a heart beat, and you do, then arm strength means nothing.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Guest redge

Guest redge

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Ask any marksman. I would be rubbish at darts.

 

Great analogy. I shoot skeet/sporting clays, which is a lot like darts (with a shotgun, the idea is to ignore the sight and follow the target with your eye), and I'm playing with the idea of using Live View in a similar way (sort of like zone focusing and estimating the frame aka shooting from the hip).

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01af

01af

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... the M (Typ 240), for me, can no longer be shot at below the focal length. By that I mean with, say, a 50 mm lens, I am better off above 1/60 s and happier at 1/90 s. With my M6, it was always safe to shoot at least one stop under, so 1/30 s or 1/15 s, no problem.

You probably never magnified your film shots in the past as much as you're magnifying your digital shots today.

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jaapv

jaapv

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Why is ISO and a bit of 'grain' such a disadvantage? With film it was perfectly OK, are your film pictures now unusable, do you disown them? Even with a bit of digital noise through higher ISO a digital file can be cleaned up a bit, and at a higher shutter speed it will be sharp (although grainy). I think this thing about hand holding at slow shutter speeds comes down to trying to prove, or live up to, the equipment, and not just doing something sensible for the photograph. It's like being stuck in a theoretical game, just follow the ingrained myth about Leica's and hand holding and you win, but the photograph loses. It's trying to live up to 24mp and low ISO as a perfect example of craft/skill, rather than living up to the image you made as a good picture, which if it is good it still will be at high grainy ISO or not.

 

Steve

Unfortunately, on the M8 and M9 one soon runs out of ISO. With the M240 the issue is lessened.
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