Samples from CineStill film @ zero, one and two stop pushes

[A miller]

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very interesting in fared, Steve!

[christoph_d]

Thanks, interesting impressions.

 

Regards

 

C.

 

 

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[brt]

Mallorca

Ljota de Palma

dev push2

iso1600

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[stevesurf]

Well, I am officially addicted to this expensive film

 

"Sushi Monica" ~ my very photogenic sister and her sushi

 

"Secret Garden"

[A miller]

Very nice, Steve. I was thinking of taking a roll out tomorrow night in Times Square in the snow. Wish me luck!

[stevesurf]

Very nice, Steve. I was thinking of taking a roll out tomorrow night in Times Square in the snow. Wish me luck!

 

It will be great timing; make sure there's plenty of street lights

 

We need to get a group buy together!

[brt]

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Very nice, Steve. I was thinking of taking a roll out tomorrow night in Times Square in the snow. Wish me luck!

 

This one is off topic

Reala CV15

I assume you know where this is

Times Square is just a few miles from here

 

brt

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[brt]

Llotja

CineStill@ ISO1600

Noctilux F1@ f1.4

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[thebarnman]

CineStill film two or three X push. So what one is 3200 iso?

 

0 push 800 iso

x2 push 1600 iso

x3 push 3200 iso

 

 

Or is it

 

0 push 800 iso

x1 push 1600 iso

x2 push 3200 iso

 

 

It's a little confusing because the thread says "zero, one and two stop pushes."

[A miller]

Llotja

CineStill@ ISO1600

Noctilux F1@ f1.4

 

I like your two photos, Brt. The second one has very lovely "real life" colors.

 

Mr. Barnman - Apologies for being confusing.

 

0 stop is 800 (the native speed of the film)

1 stop is 1600

2 stops is 3200

 

Here are a couple of additional examples (hopefully you are not already nauseous from my examples) of a 2 stop push (i.e., 3200 development). I feel that digitizing film pushed more than 1 stop is somewhat of a hopeless cause; the pixels take over and impair the picture. I had prints of these made and they actually came out very lovely, with pleasing grain and deep contrast and colors). So one shouldn't go just by the scan of the negatives, even a fairly high quality scan such as with my Nikon Coolscan)

 

This is the Western Wall in Jerusalem around midnight in the rain

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These is my adorable nephew and niece

 

 

Best, Adam

[brt]

CineStill film two or three X push. So what one is 3200 iso?

 

0 push 800 iso

x2 push 1600 iso

x3 push 3200 iso

 

 

Or is it

 

0 push 800 iso

x1 push 1600 iso

x2 push 3200 iso

 

 

It's a little confusing because the thread says "zero, one and two stop pushes."

 

The second one is technically correct but...

Color negative film looks ugly and grainy when underexposed.

Color negative film has lots of latitude. CineStill film has enormous latitude.

Hence overexpose or overdevelop color negative film. Standard development time for C41 in two bath developer is 3:15 min for one or two films. Add 30 sec for one stop of underexposure.

I tend to overdevelop to avoid grain and end up with 3:45 for CineStill@ISO 800 and 4:15@ISO 1600.

A grainy look sometimes works. I do like the Phoenix Childrens Hospital example by Steve further up this thread, for example. Perhaps Steve can explain his workflow?

 

brt

[A miller]

Brt - I hear you. But I think in order to critically analyze this it should be done with prints rather than (admittedly) less than optimal scans.

[brt]

A Miller - I am with you. Downsizing for the web detoriates a picture and it is always the print that counts. I like your bw film pictures posted elsewhere in this forum. My heart and my eyes are strongly film biased.

 

brt

[stevesurf]

The second one is technically correct but...

Color negative film looks ugly and grainy when underexposed.

Color negative film has lots of latitude. CineStill film has enormous latitude.

Hence overexpose or overdevelop color negative film. Standard development time for C41 in two bath developer is 3:15 min for one or two films. Add 30 sec for one stop of underexposure.

I tend to overdevelop to avoid grain and end up with 3:45 for CineStill@ISO 800 and 4:15@ISO 1600.

A grainy look sometimes works. I do like the Phoenix Childrens Hospital example by Steve further up this thread, for example. Perhaps Steve can explain his workflow?

 

brt

 

brt, as far as the workflow on the Phoenix Children's Hospital, you may be shocked, but they're machine developed at a manually set ISO 800 by my local Costco!

 

I then applied the following adjustments in LightRoom, saved from a previous preset that I use to produce a high contrast image:

 

Exposure -1.00

Shadows +20

Blacks -20

Clarity +40

Grain +60

[thebarnman]

I plan to use CineStill film for a darkened room with the only light being arcade equipment (pinball and video games.) There will be lots of different colored lights and therefore the images should be very colorful.

 

I have a Leica 90mm 2.0 and I'll be renting a wide angle 25mm Zeiss 2.0 and I'll be pushing the film to 3200 ISO. Another words, only two stops.

 

According to Freestyle, they recommend (about CineStill Film)

 

Recommended ISO and acceptable exposure for push processing:

 

ISO 800 - No push - EI 200-1600

ISO 1250 - 1 stop push - EI 800-2000

ISO 1600 - 2 stop push - EI 1250-3200

ISO 3200 - 3 stop push - EI 1600-3200 (added contrast)

 

 

So according to what I've read within this forum and what I see from Freestyle, I can get away with a 2 stop push (to expose @ 3200 ISO.)

 

 

I think pushing three stops and shooting at 3200 ISO would add too much contrast. I could always add contrast in Photoshop afterwards if needed.

[sclemmons]

I am a little rusty on film. Please be gentle. I remember the VPS films you would shoot at a different exposure and print to get great washed out colors, but that was 30+ years ago, and I don't recall what exactly we did..

 

This film is 800 speed film. when you say "Push", you mean I can shoot it at a faster speed? So for example, I can shoot it at 1600 and have a lab develop it as normal? Or do I tell them to push it to 1600 or what?

 

These pictures are spectacular in this thread. I would like to try some but I need some coaching. And a battery for my M6.

[stevesurf]

I am a little rusty on film. Please be gentle. I remember the VPS films you would shoot at a different exposure and print to get great washed out colors, but that was 30+ years ago, and I don't recall what exactly we did..

 

This film is 800 speed film. when you say "Push", you mean I can shoot it at a faster speed? So for example, I can shoot it at 1600 and have a lab develop it as normal? Or do I tell them to push it to 1600 or what?

 

These pictures are spectacular in this thread. I would like to try some but I need some coaching. And a battery for my M6.

 

Absolutely and welcome back. This is a non-DX-coded film, so you need to let the lab know anyway, whether you expose at ISO 800 or higher.

 

I've gotten nice results at ISO 800 and I believe your M6 does not have a DX reader, so you have to manually set it, anyway. If you like more saturated colors and more grain, then go ISO 1600 and tell the lab accordingly. Since it is C-41, you can get it machine developed and scanned right there, often less costly. Cinestill is wonderful film that produces distinctive red halos around nighttime points of light.

 

As far as the M6 battery, just order qty one Duracell DL1/3NBPK; the lowest cost I have ever seen it is here at about 80% off retail!

[thebarnman]

A few weeks ago I ordered eight rolls of Cine Still Film and recently shot seven of those rolls at 3200 ISO.

 

Evidently, Cine Still Film (according to Freestyle) can be developed at a +2 stop (for 3200 ISO) or +3 stop also for 3200 ISO if you want the added contrast. Since added contrast can be added in post processing, I chose to have the film developed with a +2 stop push.

 

What I recently found out is my local pro lab will not push C-41 (they only push or pull E-6 and of course B&W.) From my understanding, many labs won't push C-41 and in fact, that was not even a thought when I went out and shot all those rolls at 3200 ISO. To my surprise, I had to send the film to a lab capable of C-41 pushing. That lab should receive the film by Thursday at the latest.

 

The only thing that worries me a bit is what I've recently read about C-41 push processing. I learned for every stop over normal, C-41 film needs to be developed for an extra 30 seconds. So if there's a +2 stop push, the film will need an extra development time of 60 seconds. In another source, I read C-41 needs 45 seconds for every stop over normal. So I don't know what to think.

 

At this time I won't worry about it unless people here tell me otherwise, I'll just tell the lab the film needs a +2 stop push and leave it up to them time wise. Also from what I've read about Cine Still Film, it seems to have a great latitude based on the fact 3200 ISO shooting can be developed with a +2 stop push or a +3 stop push (if extra contrast is desired) according to Freestyle.

 

I'll only be getting regular jpg scans from their Frontier scanner, so I hope their they will be able to capture what ever information is on the negative (without too much added noise.) I've asked them to turn sharpening off (or to it's lowest setting) if that is even possible on their Frontier machine. I can always add sharpening later if desired.

Edited April 16, 2014 by thebarnman

[thebarnman]

I am a little rusty on film. Please be gentle. I remember the VPS films you would shoot at a different exposure and print to get great washed out colors, but that was 30+ years ago, and I don't recall what exactly we did..

 

This film is 800 speed film. when you say "Push", you mean I can shoot it at a faster speed? So for example, I can shoot it at 1600 and have a lab develop it as normal? Or do I tell them to push it to 1600 or what?

 

These pictures are spectacular in this thread. I would like to try some but I need some coaching. And a battery for my M6.

 

 

Like you said, to "push" film is to simply set the ISO to a higher number if your expecting to shoot in low light situations.

 

For example. You can shoot this 800 ISO film at 1600 ISO (1 stop faster,) and that would require a +1 stop push for development.

 

You can also shoot this 800 ISO film at 3200 ISO (2 stops faster) and that would require a +2 stop push for developing.

 

The higher the ISO number, the less exposure the film is receiving. To compensate for the underexposure, the film needs to be developed longer to help bring out what was underexposed.

 

 

Hopefully this next part won't be confusing...

 

Remember, if you underexpose by 1 stop, (1600 ISO) there needs to be a over development push of 1 stop.

 

If you underexpose by 2 stops, (3200 ISO) there needs to be a over development push of 2 stops.

 

All of these facts above assume a box speed of the film is rated at 800 ISO.

 

 

 

If you want to push 400 ISO rated film by 1 stop, you would set your camera to 800 ISO and request a 1 stop push.

 

If you want to push 400 ISO rated film by 2 stops, you would set your camera to 1600 ISO and request a 2 stop push.

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[thebarnman]

Hi Stevesurf,

 

I just noticed your from the Phoenix area. You might find it interesting I recently shot the Zapcon (2014) event this past weekend in downtown Phoenix. Since Tempe Camera does not push C-41, I had to send the film to Photographic Works (in Tucson) Photographic Works - Photo and Film Processing Lab in Tucson, Arizona

 

I have no idea how it's gong to turn out. If I get something useful, I'll be sure to post it onto my website and share the link in this forum.

 

I've got my fingers crossed hoping the images don't come out looking too flat.

Edited April 16, 2014 by thebarnman