135mm APO-Telyt handheld

[MarkP]

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Thanks for the good advice Dirk, certainly holding the lens as close to the front as possible with the left hand makes good sense.

 

As you said though, some subjects will be easier to shoot at reduced shutter speed, such as panning with a moving subject (as you did with that race car) will certainly will buy you some reduction in shutter speed.

 

I'm still suspicious about unaided handheld shooting with a 135mm lens to speeds as low as the OP was inquiring (1/45sec).

 

Finally, although I like shooting with the lowest ISO possible for IQ, if it's a choice between higher ISO or camera shake and a blurred image I'll take the former and push the ISO.

[FlashGordonPhotography]

On my M9s I can reliably get sharp images at 1/250th. I get mostly sharp images at 1/125 and some sharp images at 1/90. At 1/45 I get occasionally sharp images. Some people will be better than me. Some worse. My abilities are directly related to how muck coffee I've had that day.

 

What I can't say is how steady YOU will be.

 

Shooting a sequence of shots, combined with great technique can really help. If I shoot a set of 3 or four shots there will usually be a shot that is much sharper than the rest, in the group.

 

The 135APO is a great lens. But it's one that requires a perfectly clibrated rangefinder and some practice to get the most out of it. My copy also has some gear lash. SO I must always focus from infinity for the focus to be accurate.

 

Gordon

[MarkP]

Gordon,

you are so right about that strong coffee, gear lash, and firing a sequence to select the sharpest one.

Mark

 

ps: Colin tells me you're sorted and reassured regarding the lens' 6-bit coding.

[Bill W]

I have posted this before but it is hand help 1/125 iso500, not sure about the fstop. It is cropped. My wife hates it, "her hand". I love the 135.

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[BennyNg]

I have shot the lens hand-held at relatively slower speed than 1/250 sec and the pictures still came out decent.

 

 

Cheers,

[JoeGraham]

I have posted this before but it is hand help 1/125 iso500, not sure about the fstop. It is cropped. My wife hates it, "her hand". I love the 135.

 

Lovely picture. I too would love it as well as the 135.

[menos I M6]

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Finally, although I like shooting with the lowest ISO possible for IQ, if it's a choice between higher ISO or camera shake and a blurred image I'll take the former and push the ISO.

 

Absolutely Mark!

For me such slow speeds are not the norm, one should aim to use a 135 mm lens, but one can shoot that slow for special purposes or for the one shot, you really want to squeeze a bit more file quality by shooting a stop less ISO sensitivity or to get the shot at all in low light.

 

For general quick shooting with the 135 mm lens on a 18MP M9 or MM, I would go to 1/125 and slower only, if the subject is predictable and I have a chance to get the shot so slow.

[robert_parker]

I'll just add three things that I've found helpful:

 

1) Although my example of the lens is a pristine one, with no apparent focus lash, I've also found it easier to focus 'down' from the infinity side until the subject is in focus according to the rangefinder, as explained in Gordon's earlier post.

 

2) I use the 1,4 diopter, which helps.

 

3) I use an M8,2 which has a discrete mode. If I utilise this, I appear to get less camera shake, though I can't tell you why (you might be able to take a view as to why this would be the case when working handheld but this also appears to be true when using a tripod - as said I have no logical explanation for this but the observation appears to be sound). I'd suggest you try it to see if it works for you.

[mirekti]

Thank you for all the comments.

...it seems I'll order it this week.

[Bill W]

Thank you for all the comments.

...it seems I'll order it this week.

You will enjoy it. Good choice.

[algrove]

Thank you for all the comments.

...it seems I'll order it this week.

 

Keep in mind there is also the 135/4.0 Tele-Elmar M which has an E46 filter size like many current M glass* versus the E49 filter size of the APO 135/3.4 which me is an odd filter size.

 

If you don't regularly use filters nor own a Monochrom then forget my comments.

 

*SEM 21/3.4; 24/3.8; 28/2; 35/1.4; 50/1.4 and 90 Elmarit-M (plus a few Summarit lenses).

[mirekti]

I received the lens today and it's great. No problem in getting aceptably sharp images wide open even at 1/90.

The problem is it back-focuses betweem 1-1.5cm. I mean the point of focus is further away from the point I foucsed (not sure whether this is called front or back focusing).

I took my 35mm and realized it behaves the same, maybe a little less back focusing, but the DoF is bigger so it wasn't such a big deal.

My 75mm cron is in repair due to aperture ring failure so I cannot test it with it.

 

It seems that I'll try to do some RF calibration. I plan on turning the B a bit counter clockwise as per http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/122176-m9-coincidence-infinity.html#post1297945

 

Will I void my camera warranty if I try to do it by myself?

How much should I turn the key? Something like 1/12 of the turn or even less?

[FlashGordonPhotography]

I received the lens today and it's great. No problem in getting aceptably sharp images wide open even at 1/90.

The problem is it back-focuses betweem 1-1.5cm. I mean the point of focus is further away from the point I foucsed (not sure whether this is called front or back focusing).

I took my 35mm and realized it behaves the same, maybe a little less back focusing, but the DoF is bigger so it wasn't such a big deal.

My 75mm cron is in repair due to aperture ring failure so I cannot test it with it.

 

It seems that I'll try to do some RF calibration. I plan on turning the B a bit counter clockwise as per http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/122176-m9-coincidence-infinity.html#post1297945

 

Will I void my camera warranty if I try to do it by myself?

How much should I turn the key? Something like 1/12 of the turn or even less?

 

No. You won't void your warranty. I've done both mine and they've both gone to Leica for warranty for a different issue afterwards. The adjustment to the roller should only be made if the infinity is out. The adustment it tiny. Even putting pressure on the hex bolt without feeling like you've moved it can have an effect.

 

Gordon