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Using Flash with M9


Luke_Miller

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While I shoot available light most of the time, there are occasions when I find the use of flash necessary. I really like the results I get from bounced flash. If I do my part it does not look like a flash photo - just one taken in good light.

 

I struggled with getting the flash out of the body's hot shoe. I have several ways of bouncing the SF-24D output if I can use a sync cord to mount it off camera. With the SF-58 I prefer the handling if I can mount it lower and to the side. I have struggled to find a sync cord that will work reliably with the Leica flashes since Leica does not sell a compatible sync cord.

 

Even though the Leica flash contacts appear to be identical to those of the Nikon flashes - they are not exactly the same. If there is any movement of the Leica flash foot in the sync cord's hot shoe - communication will eventually be lost and the flash will quit functioning properly. The SF-24D seems the least sensitive to this and will work reasonably well with most cords I tried. The SF-58 is another story. I tried it with a variety of Nikon and third party cords and best results come from the old SC-17. It was designed before Nikon went to the metal flash foot and is the best fit I've found for Leica flashes. The SF-58 locking ring can be tightened enough (without having to use a lot of effort) to keep the SF-58 from shifting in the SC-17 hot shoe and it will work reliably. No matter how firmly tightened it will work loose and quit working with the other model cords I've tried.

 

I've used both the SF-24D and SF-58 with the M9. and have finally concluded that TTL flash metering is not the best method. The problem comes when there is a light source or bright background element in the frame. In this situation the flash output is reduced and the image is significantly underexposed. Then there is the issue of the subjects who blink from the TTL pre-flash and have closed eyes in the captured image.

 

I'm probably late to the party, but I now use Auto (auto-thyrister) mode exclusively. It eliminates all of the issues I experienced with TTL metering. This of course opens up the use of Nikon (and other brand) flashes with the M9 as they perform just as well as the Leica ones in Auto mode. But there is still an advantage in using the Leica SF-24D and SF-58. Both read the ISO setting in the body, and the SF-58 will also zoom to match the focal length of the lens (assuming that data is available). Leaving only the shooting aperture to be manually entered on the flash.

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I have come to the same conclusion. I need flash for my work and nearly bought a 58. Fortunately I got a chance to try someone elses for a few minutes. That was all I needed to not but this vastly overpriced unit (I have EXACTLY the same gun for other systems and it's one third the cost of the Leica badged unit). The trigger delay was far too long on the M9. It may be better on the 240.

 

I ended up finding a Metz 54Mz3i with a SCA3502 v5. It works exactly as you describe in auto mode and is easier to use than the 58 as an auto flash. I can also use a basic TTL mode if absolutely neccessary.

 

I have found that when using flash an accessory grip is very useful. I have the RRS plate/grip but I imagine the Leica one would suffice.

 

Gordon

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Have you tried bare bulb? I used to use a Quantum flash that could go bare bulb. You need a powerful flash and the Quantum was a bit ridiculous looking with a dinky Leica attached to it but the results were very pleasing.

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This is what I use; an old CTOOM bracket cut down so it fits the center tripod screw. I would never put a flash in the shoe. Not that it would not work ..... it is just something I have never done.

 

The flash is a Vivitar 283.

 

rafael

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I have an SF-24D and overall am unimpressed with it. Without the ability to redirect the flash head, it just doesn't meet my expectations. *IF* I know that I will be using flash extensively (very, very rare) then I will install the RRS base with handgrip, a Nikon SC-17 Off shoe cord and direct the SF-24D's flash head that way. It's cumbersome to say the least...

 

The way that I look at it, is if the job requires a lot of flash work then I turn to my trusty Nikon D3/SB-900 combination. The Nikon iTTL system works wonderfully well - just weighs a crapload more :D

 

I did try the SF-58 when I visited a Leica dealer in Florida and even with the ability to swivel and bounce the flash head, the Leica flash in TTL was just no comparison to what I get with the Nikon.

 

Different tools for different jobs IMHO.

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Two tilt and swivel flash guns that can be used on a Leica, without an adapter, in both Auto and Manual modes, are the Olympus FL36 and FL50. Small and much cheaper than a Leica flash.

 

Steve

 

And the newer FL600R. I have all of these and they're great. The only reason I prefer the old Metz is the pass through information of ISO and focal length. That allows me to use auto ISO and auto mode on the flash at the same time.

 

Gordon

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This is what I use; an old CTOOM bracket cut down so it fits the center tripod screw. I would never put a flash in the shoe. Not that it would not work ..... it is just something I have never done.

 

The flash is a Vivitar 283.

 

Same as me, though I use a bracket with a grip for better handling and a big bounce card. the 283 has been reliable seemingly forever.

 

Portable lighting has been part of photography since the beginning.

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I have an SF-24D and overall am unimpressed with it. Without the ability to redirect the flash head, it just doesn't meet my expectations.

 

I have the same issue with the SF-24D. After some experimentation I've found a way to bounce its output effectively.

 

I rarely go to portrait orientation so this setup works for almost all of my M9 flash shots. The reflector weighs almost nothing and the SF-24D in the hot shoe has little effect on the M9's handling. Since the photo I've dispensed with the top reflector. It is effective in directing some of the light towards the subject, but I prefer the softer light from the full bounce.

 

This method uses items from a Joe Demb prototype for bouncing the SF-24D.

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f you do not care about TTL flash, my old Vivitar 285 synced through a Wein safe sync works fine. I do not see much difference with it on auto and my Nikon TTL exposures.

 

I just did 50 pictures at an event, only two required minor exposure adjustments.

 

It is usually mounted on a flip flash bracket. Sometimes I ceiling bounce with a white dome on it, forget the brand.

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I have the same issue with the SF-24D. After some experimentation I've found a way to bounce its output effectively.

 

I rarely go to portrait orientation so this setup works for almost all of my M9 flash shots. The reflector weighs almost nothing and the SF-24D in the hot shoe has little effect on the M9's handling. Since the photo I've dispensed with the top reflector. It is effective in directing some of the light towards the subject, but I prefer the softer light from the full bounce.

 

This method uses items from a Joe Demb prototype for bouncing the SF-24D.

 

Luke

you setup is useless for vertical compositions. A swivel bracket is almost a given.

The plumbing on you setup is interesting but will result with subjects getting smacked in the side of the "face" of the picture, and ....... the multi angled bounce cards look delicate .... I don't think they can withstand getting bumped around.

 

Your choice.

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Luke

you setup is useless for vertical compositions. A swivel bracket is almost a given.

 

As I mentioned - I rarely shoot verticals. I do have a very light and compact Demb prototype flash bracket that I use if verticals are needed. The reflectors are not fragile in the sense they can be easily broken, they can be bumped out of position if I get careless.

 

My motivation is to find a way to use the small, lightweight SF-24D effectively, since I avoid using direct flash. I have an assortment of other flashes that have full tilt/swivel capability, but don't care for their weight and the effect on the balance of my M9. There are times I need the higher output from the bigger flashes and I use them when it is appropriate.

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You can shoot off camera flash with a simple kit from B&H, the impact trigger and receiver. You will have to set your flash manually as there i no communication between the camera and the flash, just trigger to receiver. The receiver has a hot shoe mount.

 

I have done this with the small Leica flash when traveling abroad with no assistant. Its is a great trick to get more dynamic lighting. Just use a light meter and it will be great. Simple solution to getting the flash off camera and still have a compact kit.

 

I also frequently shoot the M with a strobe so I have any choice of light modifier and a higher quality light source.

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