CalArts 99 Posted October 2, 2013 Share #61 Posted October 2, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) This is the M9. I have to admit I tend to sunny 16 for my subject. Checking for clipping constantly turned me off digital and took me back to film. I guess I'll need to pay more attention to the histogram. Any joy correcting this file anyone? Perhaps it's not possible? Is this blue line at the hill/sky interface a combination of blown highlights and lens character, or purely irrecoverable highlights? Pete If you've been using negative film then it's easy to blow the highlights since you've been trained to always think about retaining shadow detail (and in addition, the highlights can be controlled with film development.) If you use reversal film then it's the same as digital but with digital being a lot more forgiving in respect to recovering from underexposure via post processing. With your image the chromatic fringing can be eliminated but at the expense of highlight recovery. If it's a truly important image, then I'd do different versions in your RAW developer and then merge them in PS. Layers and masking are definitely your friends here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 2, 2013 Posted October 2, 2013 Hi CalArts 99, Take a look here Is this an Asph trait?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Paul J Posted October 3, 2013 Share #62 Posted October 3, 2013 You can obviously correct your exposure quite simply but if you don't like the double lines/Nisen Bokeh you're going to have to stop down to reduce it or use another lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted October 3, 2013 Share #63 Posted October 3, 2013 Looks like another consequence of the expose-to-the-right mantra at first glance. Look at the purple fringing around the subject. There is no need to overexpose that much with the M240. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CalArts 99 Posted October 3, 2013 Share #64 Posted October 3, 2013 Of course anything can be fixed in post (see my crop of your image) but as they say 'crap in, crap out.' Not at all that the image itself is 'crap' (it's not!) but the lighting and overexposure definitely created problems. In addition, there are certain OOF characteristics of this lens that owners here have correctly brought up (e.g., the double line OOF issue.) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/213921-is-this-an-asph-trait/?do=findComment&comment=2433400'>More sharing options...
lct Posted October 3, 2013 Share #65 Posted October 3, 2013 I don't see double lines out of C1. Just clipping due to overexposure and contrasty bokeh. Here after reducing highlights in C1 v7. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/213921-is-this-an-asph-trait/?do=findComment&comment=2433458'>More sharing options...
philipus Posted October 3, 2013 Share #66 Posted October 3, 2013 There is no way of "everything turned off" in Camera Raw. If there was then the result would be no image to look at. One can reset ACR to its defaults. Click the Camera Raw Settings menu button (the little one to the right of the Basic bar). Select Reset Camera Raw Defaults. It restores the original default settings for the current camera, camera model, or ISO setting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted October 3, 2013 Share #67 Posted October 3, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) ....... Is this blue line at the hill/sky interface a combination of blown highlights and lens character, or purely irrecoverable highlights?Pete It is called blown highlights, clipping or overflow, as stated previously. The sensor sites are clipping at different R G and B values. The converter is left to make an educated guess at a value. Very different to film! The build in metering of Leica M is actually pretty good at avoiding blown highlights as is. I rely on it as an basic setting, the go manual if needed in tricky lighting. Lifting the mids and shadows in this shot would have been a piece of cake in PP if you had stopped down a stop or two. To save this shot does require some/a lot of PP depending on what look you where going for. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted October 3, 2013 Share #68 Posted October 3, 2013 One can reset ACR to its defaults. Click the Camera Raw Settings menu button (the little one to the right of the Basic bar). Select Reset Camera Raw Defaults. It restores the original default settings for the current camera, camera model, or ISO setting. Default as 'designed' by the guys programming the software. Default in Camrea Raw and other software looks completely different! There is no 'Zero' for any commercial RAW converter yet... Most important is to choose also the 'Camera Calibration' it's the little camera tap, set it to 'Current 2012' to see the difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted October 3, 2013 Share #69 Posted October 3, 2013 Default as 'designed' by the guys programming the software. Default in Camrea Raw and other software looks completely different!There is no 'Zero' for any commercial RAW converter yet... Most important is to choose also the 'Camera Calibration' it's the little camera tap, set it to 'Current 2012' to see the difference. I think you should read what I wrote again. I merely suggested that resetting to defaults would reset any changes made in ACR so that one would see the file as it came out of the camera, nothing else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share #70 Posted October 3, 2013 Wow, I want to thank everyone for their input. It's good to know much of the problem lies with me - I can change that! I was blaming my tools when the problem really stems from my poor exposure from years of carefree colour negative sunny16 . I have something to work towards now. It's been an education. Thanks again. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share #71 Posted October 3, 2013 do different versions in your RAW developer and then merge them in PS. Layers and masking are definitely your friends here. Is this how you achieved the image in post 64? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted October 3, 2013 Share #72 Posted October 3, 2013 I think you should read what I wrote again. I merely suggested that resetting to defaults would reset any changes made in ACR so that one would see the file as it came out of the camera, nothing else. I did read it again and I read the statement it was attached to: Originally Posted by 01af There is no way of "everything turned off" in Camera Raw. If there was then the result would be no image to look at. And 01af is correct: There is no way of "everything turned off" in a Raw converter. It is not '..... so that one would see the file as it came out of the camera' it simply doesn't exist there is no way to see the RAW file as it came out of the camera in any commercial RAW converter, some have made their own RAW viewers and what you see is a black and white checker board TIF file with gray values for each channel. interesting for the sensor designers but not really useful as an image... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted October 3, 2013 Share #73 Posted October 3, 2013 it simply doesn't exist there is no way to see the RAW file in any commercial RAW converter, some have made their own RAW viewers and what you see is a black and white checker board TIF file with gray values for each channel. interesting for the sensor designers but not really useful as an image... On the basis of the premise that it is not possible to see the image as it was interpreted by the camera, because in designing a raw converter the coders must make interpretative decisions as to how the image files of a particular camera model should be processed by the converter, then it is an unhelpful remark to state that it is not possible to turn everything off because no image would be shown. I only made the second-best point that it is possible to reset the settings in ACR and get a clean slate, which may be useful because ACR remembers the settings from one editing session to another. I will unsubscribe from this thread now. Clearly there's sufficient ACR and CS knowledge in among the participants. Philip Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CalArts 99 Posted October 3, 2013 Share #74 Posted October 3, 2013 Is this how you achieved the image in post 64?Pete No, in this case I simply took your .dng file and developed it for max highlight recovery (and nothing else.) Then I made a duplicate layer in PS and added a Gaussian blur filter with color blending and used a soft brush to remove the offending blue banding. Then merged the layers and simply changed it into a gray scale file to see what it looked like in B+W (since yours was in B+W as your final image.) There are several ways of attacking it, but that was just a quick way (I'm on a little 11" Mac Book Air right now.) Here's the full image but bear in mind it was just changed to gray scale rather than working it through for a proper B+W image as you did. Therefore it doesn't have the same contrast as your image. But it was just to show the aberration removal. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/213921-is-this-an-asph-trait/?do=findComment&comment=2433519'>More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted October 3, 2013 Share #75 Posted October 3, 2013 Very nice result! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share #76 Posted October 3, 2013 Yes, excellent. So much to learn. I thought I must be missing something. I think a lot of people feel they must upgrade hardware to solve such issues. The answers often lie elsewhere. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted October 3, 2013 Share #77 Posted October 3, 2013 Never got double lines with the 35/1.4 FLE so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wattsy Posted October 3, 2013 Share #78 Posted October 3, 2013 Maybe you need to look harder? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted October 3, 2013 Share #79 Posted October 3, 2013 Just shot this award winning pic for demo's sake. F/2.8 but will be even softer at f/1.4. No problem as expected. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/213921-is-this-an-asph-trait/?do=findComment&comment=2433582'>More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share #80 Posted October 3, 2013 I can see 4 tree trunks on the right I believe the doubling is exaggerated at wider apertures. It looks lovely stopped down a bit. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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