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Should I get a used M8 or a used M8.2?


TCY

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I have read the sudden shutter failure, LCD failure and bad pixel as well as the red line issues of M8.

 

Is M8.2 better? If not, then is M9 better build?

 

Any advise?

 

Thank you.

 

Regards.

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The M8.2 has an improved shutter among other things. The M8/8.2 and M9 are all built to the same high standards. Arguments can be made for one or the other - its a personal choice, imo.

I own M8.2 and M9-P. If one had to go it would be the M9-P.

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  • The M8s have cropped sensors.
  • All M8s require UV/IR filters.
  • The M8.2 is better built than the M8, and younger
  • The M9 is younger still and built to the same standards as the M8.2 - or better
  • The M9 is full-frame

 

BUT - you have yet to address the questions on your other thread, regarding what you want in terms of focal length, capability etc and your willingness and capacity to process raw files. You have also (unless you have popped to the shops in the meantime) yet to work out whether or not the rangefinder method of working is for you.

 

I cannot help but feel you are trying to sprint before you can walk... I strongly suggest doing a bit more reading up in preference to firing out "point" questions. We are a helpful bunch around here but you do have to work with us and help yourself in order for us to help you most effectively.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

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I'm going to disagree with Bill on one aspect of the M8. M8's do not REQUIRE uv/ir filters. If you don't want funny colors with clothes then yes. I mostly do landscape and don't use the filters and have no problems.

 

A little anecdote about the filters. I went to shoot then candidate Obama at a rally. I forgot the filter. John Kerry was there also. John Kerry looked fine without a filter because he was wearing a wool suit. Even though both men appeared to be wearing the same color suit, the images of Obama showed a purple suit because he was wearing polyester!! That is an example of what the filters fixed.

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I have read the sudden shutter failure, LCD failure and bad pixel as well as the red line issues of M8.

 

Is M8.2 better? If not, then is M9 better build?

 

The LCD issue pertains to both the M8 and M8.2, although in relatively small numbers, and Leica has an exchange policy (at a cost) if it occurs. The M9 doesn't have this issue.

 

Other failures such as the shutter could happen to any digital Leica. Only Leica knows the numbers.

 

The M8.2 differs from the M8 in some specific areas. The 3 most commonly noted, and formerly available as upgrades (singularly or collectively) to the M8, are: (1) the shutter (but results in max speed of 1/4000 versus 1/8000, which is no different than the M9); (2) a sapphire screen (not available on the M9, but is on the M9-P); and (3) 2m frame lines (not available on the M9, which is optimized for 1m). [The new M also incorporates the 2m frame lines, which are more accurate for longer distances.]

 

The M8.2 also differs from the M8 in some other minor ways, including black chrome versus black paint, a black dot on the black camera, different covering, snapshot mode, etc.

 

Leica never advertised the M8.2 as being 'better built' than the M8, but as a newer camera it just seems to be a better sorted and reliable machine.

 

One should note, too, that even the M9 benefits from UV/IR filters in some circumstances, as its internal filtration is still not as effective as external filtration. There have been examples posted on the forum showing that this is true with the new M as well.

 

Further, one should note that while the M9 is full frame, which is key for many folks, that camera has had its own issues, e.g., some initial reports on cracked sensors, red edge with wide lenses, SD card issues and slow buffer, etc. No camera is perfect.

 

Personally I don't worry about camera failure; that's why I carry insurance. But each person must determine the factors and features that best suit his/her style and preferences. I do recommend, however, buying from a reputable Leica dealer, with warranty, regardless the camera chosen. And renting or borrowing one first is never a bad idea.

 

Jeff

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With the M8.2 you get a sapphire screen, quieter shutter, rangefinder optimised to 2 metres instead of 1 metre and a more tactile covering. With the M8 you get a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second, which is twice as fast as the M8.2 and you can expect the M8 to be less expensive than the M8.2.

 

One advantage that no one has mentioned yet about both the M8 and M8.2 is that you can shoot infrared shots handheld.

 

Pete.

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Clarification regarding use of IR cut filters. No they are not necessary, but they will change the rendition of synthetic fibres, especially under tungsten light and they will give a different rendition of some greens in landscape foliage, closer to reality.

 

I have also taken to using IR cut filters with the M9. although not as sensitive to IR as the M8, it is still sensitive. Leaving them on my lenses saves swapping when using either M8 or M9. Both benefit from the use. B&W is also rendered with differences.

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They will also reduce the magenta cast on Caucasian skin tones, but will darken veins on skin.Snow will go purple as well. Basically all colours are shifted, depending on the amount of IR they reflect. Hemoglobin and Chlorophyl are particularly good reflectors, thus the shift is quite large.

A side effect in landscape photography is that the correcting of the greens towards normal, be it by AWB or by postprocessing will push the sky into cyan. The same way you get a funny sky colour in snow+sun.

Of course all these effects depend on the amount of IR present. They are very hard to correct in postprocessing if at all.

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