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m 240 in the desert heat


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currently working joshua tree california where the temperatures are running in the 100's+. in the sun/heat when used with live view the camera seizes up and cuts out. you can shoot one image, which it writes fine, but then screen goes black and you cant shoot another frame until you turn the camera off/on. then live view clicks back on and you can turn it off and carry on shooting. note that this happens even when you are sitting the shade for a spell and then start shooting in the sun.

next problem, if you continue to shoot in the hot sun the camera will not process, it seems, the images with speed. there is a spell of a few seconds until the next shot can be made. when you go back to the shade for a minutes you can set the camera on c and hammer through the frames as normal.

 

is there a thermal sensor in the camera?

 

out in the heat and sun the m9 is working fine with no hiccups. note also my 240 has no problems as of yet other than this occurrence.

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currently working joshua tree california where the temperatures are running in the 100's+. in the sun/heat when used with live view the camera seizes up and cuts out. you can shoot one image, which it writes fine, but then screen goes black and you cant shoot another frame until you turn the camera off/on. then live view clicks back on and you can turn it off and carry on shooting. note that this happens even when you are sitting the shade for a spell and then start shooting in the sun.

next problem, if you continue to shoot in the hot sun the camera will not process, it seems, the images with speed. there is a spell of a few seconds until the next shot can be made. when you go back to the shade for a minutes you can set the camera on c and hammer through the frames as normal.

 

is there a thermal sensor in the camera?

 

out in the heat and sun the m9 is working fine with no hiccups. note also my 240 has no problems as of yet other than this occurrence.

 

are you sure its heat related?

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I had a few similar issues when I tried using multi-field metering in the advanced metering setting. Since I shifted back to the classic metering mode I haven't any further black screens and no more black screens or misfires. Firing a number of shots in quick succession with the advanced mode seemed to trip up my camera. Not a problem for me moving forward as I really don't use the EVF.

 

I hope this helps.

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I had a few similar issues when I tried using multi-field metering in the advanced metering setting. Since I shifted back to the classic metering mode I haven't any further black screens and no more black screens or misfires. Firing a number of shots in quick succession with the advanced mode seemed to trip up my camera. Not a problem for me moving forward as I really don't use the EVF.

 

I hope this helps.

 

+1. My experiences were similar to Kurt's and the lock ups that occurred (as the OP reported) did not happen in a high temperature environment.

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Some digital cameras may have problems with high temperatures. My Hasselblad CFV-16 back produced nothing but fine stripes when exposed too long to the namibian desert winter sun. A few minutes in the shade brought it back. I have not yet used the CFV-50 under similar conditions (will do that next year).

 

Ulrik

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Which is exactly the same as the M9 I believe.

 

0-40C is basically the 'default' operating temps that all digital camera manufacturers list in their specs. Canon, Nikon, Fuji, etc.. (of course that doesn't necessarily mean they can't work in temps outside that range.)

 

But if you look at the specs for the batteries in all those camera brands, the operating temp is the same (0-40C.) It could be that the OP is experiencing a battery/power related issue (?)

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The high end of the battery specs often have to do with charging. In 45 C. I have to charge my DMR batteries in the fridge as the charger cuts out.

 

I suppose that is the case. I read that Li-ion batteries have a built in safety circuit to shut themselves off at high temps (?) I know that they lose quite a bit of capacity at higher temps. Anyway, I'm certainly no battery expert. :)

 

fwiw, the Fuji tech specs list both the charger and the battery as 0-40C for operating temps.

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Grant -

 

Sorry to hear about your M and overheating. Joshua Tree is a stunning place and I'm sure you're getting many wonderful photos there (please post your favorites). You've prbably noticed that food in the area is not up to what you're used to around here. When we were there last November we did find a really good place for lunches and dinners. Here's what we said about it on our site:

 

Restaurant at 29 Palms Inn – This little inn, built in the 1930s (39 rooms, many in small bungalows) really has a feeling of place, unlike all those could-be-anywhere hotels. The rooms are rather basic, but everything is clean, private, quiet and well maintained, and the staff is delightful. But best of all is their restaurant, always filled with both guests and townspeople, and it’s no mystery why. The food is imaginatively conceived home cooking and everything is excellent. And as indicated above, the staff is delightful. We figured we’d eat there just our first night, but liked it sooo much we went there every night. You should do so too if you are in the area. We were there to spend time in Joshua Tree National Park. You might want to do that, also. 71829 Twentynine Palms Hwy, Twentynine Palms, CA. The 29 Palms Inn in Twentynine Palms by Joshua Tree National Park.

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That part of the world is severe. I had to shoot in Palms Springs and the Joshua Tree desert for a 10 day job in the peak of summer it got to 52 degrees C and cooled down to 37 at night. I had constant computer, camera and battery issues. I resorted to taking a cooler with a small amount of ice, kept separate in the cooler by soft packing foam, where we were unable to take the air conditioned location van while in between shots or in need of a camera cool down. The idea is not to make it cold so there is a big temperate difference when you move it back and forth but a temperature that is cool enough (cool but still warmish) to keep things working OK. Also shooting with a black umbrella overhead. Not ideal but it got me through the worst parts.

 

Good luck. Oh and backup double, hard drives fail in this heat.

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That part of the world is severe. I had to shoot in Palms Springs and the Joshua Tree desert for a 10 day job in the peak of summer it got to 52 degrees C and cooled down to 37 at night. I had constant computer, camera and battery issues. I resorted to taking a cooler with a small amount of ice, kept separate in the cooler by soft packing foam, where we were unable to take the air conditioned location van while in between shots or in need of a camera cool down. The idea is not to make it cold so there is a big temperate difference when you move it back and forth but a temperature that is cool enough (cool but still warmish) to keep things working OK. Also shooting with a black umbrella overhead. Not ideal but it got me through the worst parts.

 

Good luck. Oh and backup double, hard drives fail in this heat.

 

Film ?:cool:

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I think shooting like this is still easier than a total film workflow :D

 

It's only a problem with digital if you're not expecting it, if it's a surprise. If you are ready for it, have a system, then it's OK. Most jobs you tend to thikn big and cover yourself for these sort of issues which crop up for what ever reason.

 

After a day of shooting I knew I had to swap bodies every half hour. One is in the cooler, one you are shooting with. If you have someone on Umbrella Patrol i.e. moving the umbrella around as you do then you can stretch it out too.

 

Also I had a mirror fall off another camera from the heat so all cameras have issues. The glue that bonded it to the flappy bit melted and unfortunately the mirror went right through the shutter and destroyed it :(

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currently working joshua tree california where the temperatures are running in the 100's+. in the sun/heat when used with live view the camera seizes up and cuts out. you can shoot one image, which it writes fine, but then screen goes black and you cant shoot another frame until you turn the camera off/on. then live view clicks back on and you can turn it off and carry on shooting. note that this happens even when you are sitting the shade for a spell and then start shooting in the sun.

next problem, if you continue to shoot in the hot sun the camera will not process, it seems, the images with speed. there is a spell of a few seconds until the next shot can be made. when you go back to the shade for a minutes you can set the camera on c and hammer through the frames as normal.

 

is there a thermal sensor in the camera?

 

out in the heat and sun the m9 is working fine with no hiccups. note also my 240 has no problems as of yet other than this occurrence.

 

 

Out here in our heat, 117f a few days ago and hotter in some parts, we simply do not leave black electronics in the Sun. Every experience I have had with electronic problems during heat it was related to direct sun exposure or batteries. Were you working in the shade? Was the camera hot to touch?

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hey all,

back from the sun and i can report the 240, at least mine, does not handle the harsh desert heat as well as the m9. they both were on my body in the sun . . or shade depending on which way i was standing for hours. desert, no trees, working, no friendly courtesy holding an umbrella for me. the 240 would shoot but at a snails pace, almost like the processor got sluggish in the sun and the live view problem was reoccurring. the m9, never a problem.

the average temp out where we were was around 110+ so it was nasty and not the friendliest environment for electronics.

so thats that. no big big biggie, i reckon but some bit of knowledge.

g

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