wizard Posted January 7, 2013 Share #21 Â Posted January 7, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) ... Or is what I am saying also wrong?.... Â Yes, it is wrong. You can even take the lens off the camera and try to superimpose the rangefinder images by moving the rangefinder coupling arm located in the camera (at the top of the lens receiving opening) with your finger! Nothing will change in your rangefinder, regardless of which lens is mounted (provided it is rangefinder coupled) or whether a lens is mounted at all. Â Cheers, Â Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted January 7, 2013 Share #22 Â Posted January 7, 2013 Ha! So its not just me. I've been playing with this TTL for 2 hours.. Sometimes it over exposes.. sometimes it doesnt. Â Gave up.. Now shooting on Manual.. Meaning.. I should have just spent $100 bucks and got the SF 20. =P Â Yup that's the nature of it as there is no communication with the lens. I get better results on A rather than TTL. I've found TTL works best around apertures of 5.6 and 8. Don't know how or why. It's next to useless on wider apertures. That TTL Preflash is really too slow for some things too. Â I normally use it on A or Manual mode but confess I use other flashes more these days. It's handy to have for certain things though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonki-M Posted January 7, 2013 Share #23 Â Posted January 7, 2013 the focus patch is the same regardless of lens mounted, as the window is in completely different part from the lens. But, i do find that some lens are easier to focus just by how it was designed. The 5cm Summitar is noticeably easier to focus at close distance because of how the distance is spread out, but that's just me though. Â as for the 24D, i am also perplexed by it. TTL seems unpredictable, but will take heed on what Paul said on its accuracy at f/5.6 on. I find it to over-expose a lot, i'm clearly missing something!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted January 7, 2013 Share #24 Â Posted January 7, 2013 The patch is obviously not affected by the lens used, but there is a psychological effect from the focus "throw" on a lens, as it changes how fast the double-image moves as you focus. I much prefer lenses that have a short focus throw (such as the VC 35 1.4) as their fast response to focus movement makes them seem faster to focus. I know others prefer lenses with more focus throw, as they feel they can be focused more precisely. More a matter of personal preference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted January 7, 2013 Share #25 Â Posted January 7, 2013 It's the 'Leica glow' coming off the Leica lens that's interfering with your vision. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CalArts 99 Posted January 7, 2013 Share #26 Â Posted January 7, 2013 It happens to me when I drink Beer and eat Nuttas..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerNutta Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share #27  Posted January 7, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) the focus patch is the same regardless of lens mounted, as the window is in completely different part from the lens. But, i do find that some lens are easier to focus just by how it was designed. The 5cm Summitar is noticeably easier to focus at close distance because of how the distance is spread out, but that's just me though. as for the 24D, i am also perplexed by it. TTL seems unpredictable, but will take heed on what Paul said on its accuracy at f/5.6 on. I find it to over-expose a lot, i'm clearly missing something!!  Maybe thats what it is? I found it way easier to focus with the other two lenses then the lux. I also find that focussing with my 35mm summicron easier to focus then my lux as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerNutta Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share #28 Â Posted January 7, 2013 Flash is bananas though. A isnt bad to use.. but I find the increments a little steep. M is ok. Overall the flash is overpriced and buggy. Â I know you guys know that.. but I just want to say it so if anyone else reads this.. they will too. =P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 8, 2013 Share #29 Â Posted January 8, 2013 You guys - that flash interface is so simple; you don't need a manual.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonki-M Posted January 8, 2013 Share #30 Â Posted January 8, 2013 You guys - that flash interface is so simple; you don't need a manual.... Â i think it's time for your expertise again, Jaapv. What i just dont understand is why does the flash often overexpose..i'm doing experiment to understand how it thinks, but to no avail yet. Â If i was to shoot against the light on a 5D mark II, usually, all i would need is to manually expose for the background, then TTL flash will fill in the subject correctly. But hardly the case on the SF24D. The other day, i did experiment shots of a lit building in the background at night. i would manually expose my M9 (1/45sec ISO 800 f2) and fill in the subject with the flash. TTL overexpose...A LOT (so i had to compensate). there's something i do not know about how this flash is operating. enlighten me please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 8, 2013 Share #31 Â Posted January 8, 2013 The SF24D is no match for the superb Canon system fill-in flash. However there was an excellent article in LFI, March 2009 issue that addressed this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonki-M Posted January 8, 2013 Share #32 Â Posted January 8, 2013 The SF24D is no match for the superb Canon system fill-in flash. However there was an excellent article in LFI, March 2009 issue that addressed this. Â Thanks Jaapv, i'll be sure to read that issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haat01 Posted January 10, 2013 Share #33 Â Posted January 10, 2013 Black missing photo frame when use M9P with flash D29 less then 1 MB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted January 11, 2013 Share #34 Â Posted January 11, 2013 Black missing photo frame when use M9P with flash D29 less then 1 MB Â If what you are saying is that you got a black frame when using flash, the likely cause is that you had the shutter speed too high - assuming the flash fired of course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted January 12, 2013 Share #35 Â Posted January 12, 2013 I no longer have my little 35mm Nokton 1.4, but it might be possible the sheer difference in the size of the lenses may lead the Summilux itself to block some of the light getting to the rangefinder patch window, especially at closer distances. Â Unlikely, but not impossible. I shall have to do a test comparing my CV 21/4 and 35/1.2 and see if I notice anything. Â Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted January 12, 2013 Share #36  Posted January 12, 2013 If what you are saying is that you got a black frame when using flash, the likely cause is that you had the shutter speed too high - assuming the flash fired of course.  You can't. The M9 turns off the hot-shoe when the SS is over 1/160. Either the flash is vastly underexposing or there's a sync issue with the flash (pre flash perhaps).  Gordon  edit: of course you would be correct if the ambient exposure was under as the flash wouldn't be firing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted January 12, 2013 Share #37 Â Posted January 12, 2013 You can't. The M9 turns off the hot-shoe when the SS is over 1/160 Â Thanks, I didn't know that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlaing Posted January 12, 2013 Share #38 Â Posted January 12, 2013 Thanks, I didn't know that. Â Me neither. Not reading the manual will be my apocalypse ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted January 13, 2013 Share #39  Posted January 13, 2013 Ahhh... gotcha.. Now if you can make sense of the Leica SF 24d flash manual for me.. Ill be super happy.. =P  You actually tried to read the manual?! Well, manuals can help, though I wish they were simpler. I agree manual flash when you need it is straightforward.  Re lenses and focusing: I find some M finders are clearer than others. A friend says the Zeiss range/viewfinder (film camera) is superb. I also find that aligning the rangefinder images can be trickier with longer lenses -- meaning you have to be super accurate, especially with portraits. I usually try to aim for the eyes. The 135 is trickier again. Viewfinder magnification might help and using an accessory finder. With wides, rangefinder focusing is a real boon and very precise. Whether what you focus on is in focus depends on how well the lens is calibrated. It should be bang on and not vary from body to body. If it is out, the lens may need factory adjustment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted January 14, 2013 Share #40  Posted January 14, 2013 Ahhh... gotcha.. Now if you can make sense of the Leica SF 24d flash manual for me.. Ill be super happy.. =P  Just set the camera and the flash to auto and click away. That's the only thing the manual fails to tell you.  Then work it out from there if necessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.