M8 lenses?

[WestMichigan]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I have kept the Minolta brochure of the CLE body and its M-Rokkor lenses from 1981. It refers to the same "Achromatic" coating as earlier Minolta lenses which was composed of two layers if memory serves. Now i happen to use both M-Rokkor 40/2 v2 and Summicron-C 40/2 lenses and i have never noticed a significant difference in flare rendition i must say. On hard tests (500W halogen lamp within the frame at f/2), the Rokkor's pics look a bit more flare free than the Summicron's but i need side by side comparos to view it distinctly.

 

Well, based on your info it sounds like 'multi' coating in the case of Gen II Rokkor Forties has more to do with 'ad speak' than 'multi-plied effectiveness' versus single layered lens coatings! I did notice that the lens flares to easily for my tastes and I quickly ordered a cheap rigid hood of 'the bay'. Unfortunately I ordered the deepest one I saw available to get maximum protection, which it does provide in spades, but the shade left me with no room to easily manipulate the aperture! I've ordered a proper vented tilted shade with more finger room, but it hasn't arrived yet from south China. :-D.

 

Upon 'reflection' the lens flares about the easiest of any lens own. My early 90mm Elmarit M might be my worst flaring lens, but I haven't used it enough to speak strongly about it one way or another. It's decidely screaming for me to order a lens shade, but I never remember to do so.

 

RLW

[WestMichigan]

35 is ok for distance, 50 best for close. So I agree.

 

If you want to wedge a filter on, run some tape around the outside. You risk buggering the threads.

 

I am fairly sure that the Rokkor Forty uses the 'modern' thread pattern whereas the Summi Forty uses the old 'series' filter thread pattern. Wish I could recall the correct engineering term for thread spacing. The Lens Hood I got for it threaded right on with no issue whatsoever and so did the B&W Cut filter I got, too. Can't recall which # it is and my porous memory can't recall which nook on my desk I tucked the filter box into!

 

IIRC Camera Quest's pages for the CL & CLE describe the thread pattern spec differences on them between the rokkors and the leica lenses. I've also read various descriptions of the specific thread differences here on the forum.

 

RLW

[lct]

There are no filter thread issues with Rokkors for CLE. One just needs 40.5mm filters which can be mounted onto the lenses or into the dedicated rubber hoods.

[lct]

... It is not standard 39 mm filter thread pitch. When you try to add a UV/IR filter it will not fit. If you do not use one, all the colors get screwed up, not just purple blacks which is easy to fix. The rest are not easily fixed. Then when you add the filter, cyan corners appear. So you have to code the lens or use corner fix. Proper code? who knows? Leica will also not guarantee focus of CL lenses on the M camera either. Most have no problem, but you never know...

Sounds like we have a somewhat different experience with the Summicron-C. According to mine:

- The lens is made for series 5.5 filters which are not made in UV/IR version any more AFAIK but the glass of 39mm filters can be inserted into the rubber hood more or less easily. A bit of grinding may be needed with Leica filters but not with B+W's i've been told (by Jaap IIRC). Not a big deal anyway. Works so well that i've done the same DIY on a CV 21/4, making it the only existing 21 with decent shade, UV/IR filter and no significant blocking of the viewfinder.

- Adding an UV/IR filter does not cause significant cyan shift out of the Summicron-C, at least on my M8.2.

- There is no need to code the lens at all but the Summicron 35/2 v4 coding works fine. One will have to sharpie a screw head for this purpose though.

- Never got the least focus problem with 3 different samples of the lens on 6 different bodies from M3 to R-D1 & M8.2. Just an old horror tale by Leica to dissuade M users from buying the 40/2 instead of a dearer 35 IMHO.

[tobey bilek]

The engineering term is thread pitch or threads per mm. Standard Leica is 39 mm, .75 pitch and the CL lenses were .5 pitch or the reverse, I can`t remember and am too lazy to check the Leica catalog that defines it.

 

At one time I put a 40 mm lens on an M and opened the shutter and examined the image on the glass I added.

 

35 frames match distance well. 50 match close well.

 

You need to understand all the frames are off for every lens. Angle of view narrows with close focusing, ie you made a zoom lens. To keep from getting things chopped off in close up work, frames are computed for the more narrow angle and at infinity you get more. Every lens is this way. Nature of RF cameras.

[lct]

The beauty of 40mm lenses is they match best 35mm framelines than 35mm lenses at long to medium distance on every M body but the M8.2. This is due to framelines computed to be accurate at 0.7m (film Ms, M8) and 1m (M9) vs 2m (M8.2). Better use 35mm lenses on the M8.2 for the same reason.

[jaapv]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

It is a different thread, you will destroy the threading. Use either the original hood and lock in the glass without the rim of a 39 mm filter or use the Heavystar 5.5 to 39 adapter ring. It comes with a very nice hood included priced next to nothing.

A 39mm filter will indeed screw into the Cron 40, it just won't screw all the way down. It will certainly get tight enough that it's not going anywhere. For the money, the 40 is one of the best lenses you can get. Definitely grind it to get the 35mm frame lines or get one that's already ground.

 

Having said that, the Cron 28 pretty much gets you the look of the 35mm ASPH on the M8.

 

As always though, the real issue is how do you shoot. Before I got my original M8, I asked all the same questions, Within three months, I realized that 50mm was the keystone for me. The 67mm equivalent focal length makes it an ideal compromise between a standard lens and a short telephoto. On top of that, there's a huge selection to choose from. Good luck.

[zombii]

I'm aware it's a different thread. You won't destroy the thread if you don't strong arm it. I agree the adapter is the better way but I've used the filter directly for a couple of years without damaging the threads. Like most other such issues, forcing something beyond the point it will easily go does the damage.

 

It is a different thread, you will destroy the threading. Use either the original hood and lock in the glass without the rim of a 39 mm filter or use the Heavystar 5.5 to 39 adapter ring. It comes with a very nice hood included priced next to nothing.

[WestMichigan]

I agree, all RF Framelines are guidelines rather than precise demarcations.

For the 40mm focal length:

I very much do NOT find the 50mm frame lines a close match on my M8.

I DO very much find the 35mm frames lines a close match on a M8, though.

From a functional usage standpoint I've chosen to go with 35mm.

However: I AM looking for a way to keep my original mount unaltered by swapping in some sort of spare or replacement mount, because I do recognize the validity of the argument for not permanently altering one's lenses, but my search is barely begun.

 

RW

 

The engineering term is thread pitch or threads per mm. Standard Leica is 39 mm, .75 pitch and the CL lenses were .5 pitch or the reverse, I can`t remember and am too lazy to check the Leica catalog that defines it.

 

At one time I put a 40 mm lens on an M and opened the shutter and examined the image on the glass I added.

 

35 frames match distance well. 50 match close well.

 

You need to understand all the frames are off for every lens. Angle of view narrows with close focusing, ie you made a zoom lens. To keep from getting things chopped off in close up work, frames are computed for the more narrow angle and at infinity you get more. Every lens is this way. Nature of RF cameras.

[jip]

I was on a 'small' budget myself when I bought my M8 march 21 this year, I could have bought the body and waited till April, and then buy a nice 28mm lens (I was looking at the leica's) But then I knew I couldn't hold out that long with my new camera without being able to use it. So I bought a Voightlander Ultron F2 28mm. I'm quite surprised what I got out of that lens.

 

I picked it up for 395 euro and Foto Fransen in Amsterdam.

 

Check my 500px in my signature for some samples.

[Rc575757]

I love my 28mm zeiss zm on my m8. Gives you about a 37mm eqivalent and that lens delivers beautiful images.

[tah]

I agree on the 28mm focal length. I have the CV 28/1.9 and it is permanently mounted on the M8.2. Very satisfied.

 

Flickr: Mr.Mansen's Photostream

[jdlaing]

It is a different thread, you will destroy the threading. Use either the original hood and lock in the glass without the rim of a 39 mm filter or use the Heavystar 5.5 to 39 adapter ring. It comes with a very nice hood included priced next to nothing.

 

I am patiently awaiting delivery of one of those from Heavystar.