WillD Posted October 4, 2011 Share #1 Posted October 4, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I wondering whether some of the more experienced film users here can help me... I have an M9 and 35mm Summicron which I have been hugely impressed with and enjoying immensely. I've now been tempted to buy an M6 in order to enjoy film (as well as digital) and that 'classic' look when shooting portraits etc. In the search for this classic look I wondered whether the members here would be willing to share their views on the best B&W film and also lenses? So far I've been bewildered by the combinations and options available when it comes to film, but I must admit I've been quite tempted by the Zeiss 50mm f 1.5 C Sonnar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 Hi WillD, Take a look here Lens and film for the M6?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
earleygallery Posted October 4, 2011 Share #2 Posted October 4, 2011 You don't need particular lenses for B&W film, use what you have. If you want a more vintage look buy a 5cm Summar. As for film I'd choose FP4 for portraits but you'll get lots of differing opinions. My best advice is to buy a bunch of different films and try them for yourself, make your own choices. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 5, 2011 Share #3 Posted October 5, 2011 Why not an M7? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted October 5, 2011 Share #4 Posted October 5, 2011 Use the same lenses that you have. For B&W film, Tri-X is classic. The new T-Max 400 is wonderful though if you want something a bit sharper with finer grain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 5, 2011 Share #5 Posted October 5, 2011 Why not an M7? Cost? Ilford Delta 100 is a great all-round film and any 50 Summicron will do you very well. Try to find a 75 Summarit if you want something a little longer for portrait work. For portraits, you don't want anything too sharp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted October 5, 2011 Share #6 Posted October 5, 2011 Don`t buy a film camera to get film look. You need to use digital processing to match the film look. Nik silver Effects Pro for a canned program. If you add grain in photoshop on a new grey layer, you can make it large/small, sharp or clumpy, mono or color. Use "blend if option" to confine grain to middle tones . Split the sliders to smooth transition. Use a curve to increase mid tone contrast. Find some tutorials on line, but none will tell you to use blend if, that is my secret. Guaranteed you can not tell it from film. 50 2.8 Elmar new version if you want a 50. `Lux if you have bucks. At 5.6 they are the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted October 5, 2011 Share #7 Posted October 5, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Don`t buy a film camera to get film look. You need to use digital processing to match the film look. "need"? Oh please... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted October 5, 2011 Share #8 Posted October 5, 2011 My choice of lens, well you already have it. Film, I like Tri-X because of the grain, but I also like Plus X because of its slower speed. I shoot most of my shots at 2.8 or so, thus I need a slow film. I also use a #22 yellow filter on most shots, which reduces the exposure by 1 f-stop. Wayne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted October 5, 2011 Share #9 Posted October 5, 2011 Don`t buy a film camera to get film look. You need to use digital processing to match the film look. Great advice, if you prefer virtual reality to the real thing, artificial flavours and would rather hear your favourite song by (insert favourite singer) sung by some untalented woman/guy in a karaoke bar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillD Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share #10 Posted October 5, 2011 Thanks to all for the great advice, thoughts and tips so far... Just to respond to one or two or the responses: Re film selection, I've bought 4 to start with ranging from Tri-X to Delta 100, taking in Kodak, Fuji and Ilford - I can't wait to shoot with them all and then start to compare them all. I guess my next thread will be about developing (any suggestions welcome), I may even try a little myself since my sister-in-law develops her own film. Re lenses, I fully appreciate I don't need lenses for B&W, it was more about whether there were some slightly more characterful and less clinical lenses out there that might really suit film and portrait shooting. I have the 35mm Cron as I mentioned, am very tempted by the 90mm Elmarit, but was then looking slightly 'off brief' (ie not the 50mm Summilux, as tempted as I might be). Why not an M7, as Andy mentions, cost is certainly part of it since my M9 did slightly dent the bank account! However, I also read that the M7 electrics can be a little 'quirky' on occasions, and I rather liked the simplicity of the M6 - which takes me onto the next point... As Earley hints at, this isn't about trying to recreate the B&W 'look' (I have silver Effex Pro and enjoy it with my M9), but this was about getting back to film and experiencing the whol e pleasure of the format, it's limitations and it's advantages. Anyway, all of your thoughts and tips are greatly appreciated, but please keep them coming - please feel free to include your own photos (although I've found some great links on photo.net etc), as well as the lenses you love on your M6/film rangefinder. Thanks again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted October 5, 2011 Share #11 Posted October 5, 2011 Not trying to talk you into selling your M6 and buying and M7, but many of us haven't had any problems with quirky electronics with the M7. I've had none in the couple years and several hundred rolls I've put through it. There was some stuff early on I think, but pretty much everything has been taken care of. That being said, if you've not used an M6 before, you can (and probably will) drain the battery that runs the meter if the shutter button is partially depressed in the bag. Just know that if you turn the shutter speed to 'B', it turns off the meter, preventing battery drain. In the first couple months of owning an M6, I drained a couple batteries this way. Oddly enough, the shutter button has never been depressed enough in my bag to fire off a blank frame. A lot of people seem to like the Zeiss 50/1.5. It has some quirks with respect to focusing, but it regarded as a 'character' lens. Other suggestions for 'character' lenses might be anything that is not a current generation M lens from Leica; the older, the more character in many cases Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 5, 2011 Share #12 Posted October 5, 2011 That being said, if you've not used an M6 before, you can (and probably will) drain the battery that runs the meter if the shutter button is partially depressed in the bag. Just know that if you turn the shutter speed to 'B', it turns off the meter, preventing battery drain. In the first couple months of owning an M6, I drained a couple batteries this way. Oddly enough, the shutter button has never been depressed enough in my bag to fire off a blank frame. That's true but if you get used to sunny 16 and/or using an incident light meter you probably won't notice the batteries have drained in an M6. I really only use the LEDs in the M6 meter as a reminder I've left the lens cap on. Using my M2 (and less frequently the MP) in Venice and Rome recently I was really only guestimating the exposure using Portra 160. I thought I'd have lots of duff exposures but I don't recall any being off. It's my new favourite film. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebarnman Posted October 8, 2011 Share #13 Posted October 8, 2011 If I can ring in here, I'd like to suggest you try at least one roll of Rollei retro 80s. Rollei Retro 80s ISO 35mm x 36 exposure (Single Roll Unboxed) | Freestyle Photographic Supplies and have it processed either as a negative...or as a positive (if you have use for positives) via Dr5 dr5 CHROME - Black and White slide - transparency process + THE ONLY AGFA SCALA PROCESSING WORLDWIDE You won't believe what you see. Here's a few samples from retro 80s. Flickr: Rollei Retro 80s Flickr: Discussing Rollei RETRO 80S in Maco and Rollei Film Users I recently used Retro 80s on my road trip of 10 drive-ins in 10 days. Stunning is all I can say! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Messsucherkamera Posted October 27, 2011 Share #14 Posted October 27, 2011 Why not use your 35 'cron and Tri-X (not that you can't use your other lenses, too)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steed Posted October 27, 2011 Share #15 Posted October 27, 2011 i love the tonality and additional speed of Ilford Delta 400, and the folks who see the prints seem to like that look as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillD Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted October 27, 2011 Thank you for the Rollei Retro 80s thought, it looks stunning and will defiantly give it a try. My first roll of Ilford Delta 100 from my M6 is due back from processing on Saturday, looking forward to seeing the results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Pop Posted October 28, 2011 Share #17 Posted October 28, 2011 Keep your same lens(es) unless you're looking for something very old, in that case get an old LTM with adapter...elmar 5cm for example. I use an M9 and an MP (used to have an M6TTL) As for film, Just experiment. I'm a huge Ilford fan, particularly HP5+ (even when pushed up to 1600), PanF+, and Delta 3200. I like TMax400, except the negatives curl really bad edge to edge (I process my own), makes it hard to scan (yes everyone out there, I know I can flatten them under a heavy book...but usually when negatives are dry, I like to scan them, not wait an additional couple of days to flatten them out). Fuji Neopan 400 is also quite nice, but discontinued. You can still find it though. Cheers, Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joachim123 Posted October 28, 2011 Share #18 Posted October 28, 2011 I use only slide film for my M6 so I cant comment on the merits and qualities of B&W film. However, for me the perfect combination is the M6 with Kodak 100G 50mm lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
molaikop Posted October 28, 2011 Share #19 Posted October 28, 2011 I have a Summicron 35/2 for my M6, it's Made in Canada and I got it for a bargain 5 years ago..people tend to think its less of a quality lens, but in fact it is exactly the same as the ones from Germany. Check some pictures I took here (was using Kodak T-Max and some cheap ass color negatives I found in the drugstore) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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