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Lightmeter for M3


Nightpuma

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Hello all,

 

Last week I purchased my first Leica, a later M3 model with 50mm Summicron type 2. It felt like such a great day, just like when I got my first bicycle and my drivers license :)

Now I am in the process of getting a lightmeter, and I have been looking into the Leicameter MR and MR-4 and Gossen Digisix. I have not been using cameras with separate lightmeters before, so I really don't know what the pros and cons will be with a handheld vs. a Leicameter which is coupled to the camera. What is important to me is to use the M3 as much as possible. That means I am looking for the solution that is easiest to use.

It would be great if some of you would share some experience with the different solutions.

 

Best regards

 

Theo, Copenhagen

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Hi

 

If you can get a Weston II or III that is still in calibration then they are only a little less convenient to switch between high and low reading. There is a neutral density filter, you need to avoid loosing.

 

If you like the easy life get a later model, the III may be a stop more sensitive then a II.

 

They are really cheap cause no one thinks anything off them.

 

If they are still working they will probably work for a long time.

 

The reason you select the Weston is cause of the zone system calculator, there is a stick on template you can use if you need the aid memoire.

 

Noel

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A well functioning Weston Euro-Master is a good choice. The problem with the Westons is that the selenium cells will often need replacement.

 

Although a Weston matches the M3 nicely I sold mine and now use a Gossen Digiflash with mine (very small and handy). Another popular choice is a Sekonic L-308. Both are small modern meters that have a wider metering range and a lot quicker operation than an old Weston.

 

Carl

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Avoid Leicameters: fine collectibles, but not the best for use.

The VC linked above is fine (I have just spoken with a friend that has it permanently on his M3), but my idea is that nothing is better than a good classic handeld to make good measurements : imho, having a meter fitted on top of the camera is many times a limitation: personally I have had a number of Gossens (from the simple Sixtino to the Lunasix) and have always liked them.

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+1 for the Sunny 16. If you want to feel safer the first times you'll do your guesswork go with the Voigtländer. It likely works in a similar fashion as the inner lightmeters of the M6 and M7, the covered angle being about 30°.

If you want top notch go with a handheld.

But I'd respectfully insist that Sunny16 will do well to your brain too and will ultimately address you to more control over the image making.

Just remember that bw will be more forgiving than slides and that for the sake of safety with bw you'll want to expose for the shades whilst you'll expose on the lights when shooting slides.

 

Cheers,

Bruno

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The MR-4 I have works fine. I like the fact that it is coupled. I meter and set speed and aperture before even bringing the camera to the eye. Once it is set, it is just focus and shoot. I find that in practice, this combination works a lot faster than my M6, especially since you only need to meter again when the light changes. The M6 kind of encourages constant fiddling with exposure settings as you chase lighting the arrows. I would even say that an M3 + MR-4 works as fast as an M7 :)

 

As far as accuracy, I only shoot B&W with the M3, so the film latitude helps there quite a bit. If I were shooting slides, I would bring along my Gossen Luna Pro. Actually, I would bring a different camera. I have an aversion to hand-held meters. If I were to carry one, why not a tripod then. A slippery slope totally negating the Leica experience.

 

There are a few shops that will repair, adjust and calibrate the MR meters. There is one a few blocks from where I work in Hollywood. Quality Light Metric Co. Highly recommended.

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Real men use Sunny-16... ;)

 

Regards,

 

Bill

 

I usually work out sunny 16 +experience, then take a light meter reading and if the light meter doesn't agree then I start to wonder why, usually its because I'm not using the meter in the right way :rolleyes:

But sunny 16 only really works outside, a meter is a help otherwise, my M3 has had MC, MR and now Voigtlander on it over the years, the Voigtlander is very good, but I sometimes forget its not coupled to the shutter dial :(

For everything else I use a Weston Master IV, and have done for almost 50 years, the current one has been in use for over 25 years. With my own 3 different Westons and the dozens of them and Gossen meters I have used/known over the years belonging to my employers or to the School of Art & Design for student use the Weston is at least as reliable as any other meter, certainly they dont need frequent new cells, but don't drop one, the movement is not as robust as solid state, but they don't use batteries :)

 

Gerry

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But sunny 16 only really works outside...

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

...not necessarily... ;)

 

Regards,

 

Bill

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I use this voigtlander on my M2 and it's great BUT it doesn't connect to the shutter speed dial. I used to use a Leicameter but it wasn't very accurate due to battery issues. This little Voigt is nice and looks reasonably correct on the camera.

 

 

 

Voigtlander VC II

 

Just be careful, because they pop off the hot shoe easily. I had mine for a week before it fell off into salt water.

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Theo, I have used man different light meters. I love my Gossen Digisix. Very accurate & it it so small. I carry it in my right front pocket wherever I go. It is a marvelous instrument & easy to use & the cost is reasonable. I highly recommend this solution.

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Congrats with the purchase!

The M3 and a 50 cron type 2 was my very first Leica purchase as well. Delightful isn't it?

Other bodies and lenses followed after that, but the M3 is the only one I'll never sell, for sure.

Totally agree with the majority here... Go S16 as much as you can even in difficult situations. If the scene is important, you can always get a second metered shot.

Exposure really isn't rocket science. You'll quickly get a feel for it.

Ultimately, S16 reminds you that photography is a craft. And all craft demands mastering of technique. And that mastering is in your head, not in devices.

Have fun.

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