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I have a boatload of screw mount stuff that i use frequently. Leica, Nikon-50/1.4, 85/2.0, 105/2.5, and Canon including a 50/1.2 hung on a IIIf or a Canon 7.

I enjoy the comments I get from astonished bystanders that anyone would use such antique cameras.

Oh, throughly OT but I also haul out a Nikon SP as well.

Phil Brown

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Hi everybody

 

I guess I shouldn't technically post (again) since I don't (yet :) ) have an LTM and so can't be "counted" but I figured I should anyway since, having gone through this entire thread for two days (and what a truly amazingly interesting read it's been!) I have a few questions.

 

Thanks for the advice to my questions just a few days ago regarding what camera to get. Forgive the many questions as my Leica Manual hasn't yet arrived.

 

I have read descriptions on several sites (leicapages, leitzmuseum, cameraquest for instance) to get my head around the numerous different model names and sometimes rather confusing naming conventions used. I think I get it now, more or less (famous last words haha).

 

I must say I love the look of the black cameras with the nickel or chrome knobs. And it's even better when the black is worn off a bit and the golden colour comes out.

 

Since I want a pre-war or wartime camera, I'm pretty set on trying to find an II, III or a IIIa.

 

As I've understood it the II (which I guess is also called "D") has speeds from 1/20th to 1/500th. I understand there are two versions, one introduced in 1932 and one in 1935 - are they the same regarding the speeds?

 

Ideally I'd like both slower and faster speeds so I guess that rules the II out unless one of the two versions has these speeds.

 

The III (also called "F", right?), as I understand it, has the slower speeds, down to 1sec. But, according to the Leitzmuseum, it is supposed to be rare in black. Then again at Leicapages, it is said that 27000 were made in black, which also Cameraquest says. A bit confusing. I'm not interested in a rare camera, but just a functioning user camera in black.

 

The IIIa seems to be the perfect model since it has both the slower speeds and 1/1000. Cameraquests says all are believed to be in chrome, but I've seen one at Red Dot Camera which is black. At Leicapages it is said that only 800 were made in black, which would seem to make the Red Dot camera a rare camera. Or could it be that the Red Dot camera is a painted chrome model (and I see that the shutter dial has a flash symbol!?)?

 

A little earlier in the thread TomB_tx wrote that his IIIc from 1948 has a bit of flaking metal. I've also read on Cameraquest that the chrome chips off on some early post-war models. Does this also apply to pre-war/wartime models, like the black II, III and IIIa?

 

If I manage to find a camera in good mechanical (shutter, winding mechanism) and optical (VF+RF) condition (or even only in good mechanical condition) should I get an external 50mm VF? I've read about the SBOOL and the SBOOI and must say the SBOOI looks very nice (but does it exist in black?).

 

I've read several forum members recommend the 5cm Elmar 3.5 as a classic lens to go with an LTM. It seems there's also a 2.8 version - is there a big quality difference (assuming one finds clean nice copies) between them?

 

Sorry for this "shotgun" approach but I'm really eager about the Barnack cameras. I still haven't even held one but am very interested. They seem so small and portable and quirky.

 

Kind regards and thanks in advance for your assistance.

Philip

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Hi Philipus, There are IIIs in black and chrome but the IIIa only came in chrome (apart from a tiny number). IIs came in black and nickle, black and chrome and chrome. You can live without the slow speeds unless you do a lot of photography with a tripod and there is also something less to go wrong. If you want a pre-war camera get the F3.5 5cm Elmar or a nice clean Summar. The F2.8 Elmar is much heavier and bulkier and in my opinion is better balanced with the M2 or M3 than a Barnack. I wish the early cameras had frames for 35mm as well as 50mm so I could use my Elmar 3.5cm as my standard lens.

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The chrome on pre-war cameras was very good. My father had a III (it had separated VF and RF viewing windows, so I think it must have been an a) bought new in I think around 1938 or 39. Its chrome was as good, when it was sadly stolen from his car in Spain in 1967, as it was when new. He had put hundreds of rolls of film through it.

 

The chrome on his later 1953 IIF, which I still have, is like new and I think has lasted better than my M4, which was new to me in 1967. The chrome on the M4 has gone a bit dull and discoloured. I had hoped it might come back with an artists eraser and wiping with IPA, but it hasn't. Admittedly, the M4 has seen a lot more use than the IIF has. I think my father never liked the side by side VF/RF on IIF, compared with the separated ones on his IIIA and rarely used the IIF. I prefer the M4, so don't use the IIF a whole lot either but enjoy it when I do.

 

Wilson

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Thank you very much for this clarification. I see now that the camera Red Dot described as a IIIa was in fact a III (they've updated their site). Thanks also for your advice re the 2.8 Elmar. I would definitely want my camera to be light and small.

 

You can live without the slow speeds unless you do a lot of photography with a tripod and there is also something less to go wrong.

 

Hmm but what about if one wants to use it when it is a bit darker, say indoors?

 

Btw - when early cameras were upgraded by Leica, say a I to a II, what happened with the serial numbers - did the camera get a new one or did it keep its old number?

 

These are really fascinating cameras :D

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Thank you very much for this clarification. I see now that the camera Red Dot described as a IIIa was in fact a III (they've updated their site). Thanks also for your advice re the 2.8 Elmar. I would definitely want my camera to be light and small.

 

 

 

Hmm but what about if one wants to use it when it is a bit darker, say indoors?

 

Either an F2 5cm lens (Summar, Summitar or Summicron) or a faster film are options. I can hand hold below 1/20th but I don;t do it often.

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If you are considering a Summitar, I would go for about a 1952 one, i.e. a late circular diaphragm one. Mine is the later hex diaphragm model and this can sometimes lead to odd bokeh and hex shaped artefacts. I actually think that it is worth paying the extra for a Summicron, which is a much better lens than certainly my Summitar. My Summitar is quite soft wide open and can give strange colour rendition on slide film, other than the sadly no longer available, Kodachrome. I now pretty much stick to B&W with it for this reason.

 

Overall, I would agree with folks who say that the Elmar may be the best answer for an LTM. Coated post war is a big plus, if you are going to take colour film. Check very carefully for fungus in/on lens with a very bright light shining through lens or even better a UV light, as fungus usually fluoresces and shows up clearly.

 

Wilson

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DSCF0035.jpg

 

Hi everyone. My first posting here for a year or two........

I apologise for the dreadful picture quality - I used a cheapo digital. Anyway this is my 1941 red-blind 111c. The lens is a 1940 3.5cm Elmar. The picture behind was taken with it - what a great little lens!

 

Incidentally I find the focussing on the 111c to be easier than on my M6 - faster and more positive. It could be because I wear glasses?

 

Enjoying the thread.

 

Cheers,

 

David

Edited by davidmhol
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everybody

 

I am very happy to announce that I've joined clan Barnack :)

 

Here's my II - originally a I from 1931 - with various lenses and accessories in an outfit case.

 

There's an interesting Hektor 2.8cm f6.3--f22 from 1950. The 9cm Elmar and the 13,5cm Hektor are from 1934 and 1938, respectively, though I suspect they've been repainted because they look like new. The Summitar is from 1950 and is in good condition. Included was a Leica II instruction book stamped on the back "Drogerija Gregoric, Ljubljana, Presernova 5".

 

I'm very excited about the filters too and the VIOOH and TUVOO (I just love these names) are in good working order.

 

I let the Summilux 50 LTM tag along for a ride since it does fit on the body, but like someone said that lens is a bit big to use.

 

The two metal film canisters in the case contain film magazines (right term?) and I guess they're for bulk loading.

 

But what is the film spool (to the left of the TUVOO)?? It's made of plastic.

 

Cheers

Philip

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Edited by philipus
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Hello everybody

 

I am very happy to announce that I've joined clan Barnack :)

 

Here's my II - originally a I from 1931 - with various lenses and accessories in an outfit case.

 

Dear Philipus,

Your Leica II is quite interesting and appears to have been back to Wetzlar after WW2.

The giveaway is the chrome disc where the slow speed dial is on its big brother.

Furthermore, being a 1931 camera it would originally have had a larger shutter speed dial.

Sadly Leica Camera AG fired their archivist. Before they did so I made enquiries regarding my cameras and was given their history; when a camera was made, to whom it was first sold and service history if any.

Nice equipment. Have fun.

Hektor

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Your Leica II is quite interesting and appears to have been back to Wetzlar after WW2.

The giveaway is the chrome disc where the slow speed dial is on its big brother.

Furthermore, being a 1931 camera it would originally have had a larger shutter speed dial

 

Yes I believe it was upgraded around 1950. It may have been at the same time as the Summitar and Hektor 2,8cm were bought with it (though that's a complete guess on my part of course).

 

It's the first Barnack I've ever handled and I'm amazed at the wonderful quality of all the controls, the shutter sound, the film transport. Everything is a true pleasure to use :D

 

Cheers

Philip

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Focusing was not too easy as we were in trees at noon in very bright dappled sunlight.

 

It reminded me how poor in modern terms, the LTM's rangefinder is. I had in the end, to Blu-Tak a small yellow filter over the RF window to make it more visible.

 

I also find the rangefinder a wee bit dark.

 

Do all Barnack cameras have the same rangefinder or do, perhaps, later models have brighter rangefinders?

 

Wilson mentioned a yellow filter. I remember reading about how yellow sunglasses increase contrast which is useful for golf, driving and the shooting range.

 

Is such a filter a type of accessory one can fit?

 

Cheers

 

Philip

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Philip, when I first had my II the viewfinder was dingy and hard to use. A CLA by CRR in Luton transformed it.

 

The viewfinder filter you are referring to is an ORAKO/OKARO (they are different, for different cameras) . They do help contrast, but i would go for a CLA first.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

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Philip, when I first had my II the viewfinder was dingy and hard to use. A CLA by CRR in Luton transformed it.

 

The viewfinder filter you are referring to is an ORAKO/OKARO (they are different, for different cameras) . They do help contrast, but i would go for a CLA first.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

 

Thank you very much Bill.

 

I'm not sure it needs a CLA because Leicashop had their technician check it before shipping it to me and it passed the test. When, daytime, I compare the clarity of the image in the RF with that of the image in the VF then there's not that much difference. I think it is probably just me getting used to the interesting idiosyncrasies of Barnack cameras :)

 

I've now studied the Wiki on the filters and it seems it is the ORAKO which would fit a II. I'll keep my eyes open for one.

 

Cheers

Philip

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I'm not sure it needs a CLA because Leicashop had their technician check it before shipping it to me and it passed the test.

 

 

Dear Philipus,

Let me endorse Bill's advice and with due respect to the Leicashop, in my experience technicians check the shutter speed and focusing accuracy only. Furthermore, the younger technicians do not know how good, clear and bright a "schraubgewinde" rangefinder should be.

Do yourself a favour and have it checked by Ottmar Michaely, Malcolm Taylor or Don Goldberg.

Have fun,

Hektor

 

PS I have both the ORAKO and OKARO and do not need them as my various screw thread cameras have had the full "treatment' from one or other of the above technicians.

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