Leica M8 and Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 Nokton S.C.?

[jsrockit]

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Anyone using the M8 with a Voigtlander Nokton single coated lens? Any examples?

[jsrockit]

Or single coated in general or even Voigtlander wide angles in general.

[mikki]

Hi,

 

I've had three samples of the voigtlander 35mm/1.4 and I found it to be a horrible lens. I've sent it back three times because of very poor quality in the corners and after three times I gave up. My samples gave smearing and unsharpness in the corners up to f/5.6. I've put up some sample here:

CV-Nokton 35/1.4 problem - a set on Flickr

There are other people however, that seem to be quite happy with the lens. So maybe I've had just back luck (three times?)

 

Currently, I'm using the voigtlander 28/3.5 which is (to me) an excellent lens. It's very sharp at all apertures and gives a pleasant 'pop' only seen in Leica lenses. If you want a faster lens, the 28/1.9 and the 28/2.0 are also nice (although less sharp than the 3.5, I also own the 1.9). The 50/1.5 is also a very good lens for low-light photography. And if you really want a 35mm, consider the 35/2.5, preferably the pancake II version.

 

Hope it was helpful :-)

[farnz]

I bought the CV 35/1.4 Nokton largely because of its compactness but it didn't take long to find back-focus wide open and focus shift from around f/2 to f/5.6. This may have been just the sample I had but I moved it on quickly because achieving sharp focus was a a pain.

 

On the other hand, I've used the CV 35/1.2 Nokton for a number of years and it produces spectacular results; no back-focus or focus shift that I've seen and superb colours, although it is a relatively large and heavy lens. I'm happy with the sacrifice in size.

 

Pete.

[falkk]

hmm. i have the M8 (classic), B+W UV/IR Cut Filter with Nokton 35 f1,2 - so not exactly the lens, you were referring to. but i'd like to mention, that i am quite happy with the Voigtlander. Solid peace, good quality, sharpness ok. Focussing needs some time, but that's obvious with wide open aperture, i guess. I can recommend it.

[jsrockit]

I bought the CV 35/1.4 Nokton largely because of its compactness but it didn't take long to find back-focus wide open and focus shift from around f/2 to f/5.6. This may have been just the sample I had but I moved it on quickly because achieving sharp focus was a a pain.

 

On the other hand, I've used the CV 35/1.2 Nokton for a number of years and it produces spectacular results; no back-focus or focus shift that I've seen and superb colours, although it is a relatively large and heavy lens. I'm happy with the sacrifice in size.

 

Pete.

 

Were you using it with the M8? I use one currently with a M2 and like it. I've also had the PII version at f/2.5. My main concern is not the quality of voigtlander stuff, but how it works with the M8 specifically.

[jsrockit]

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I've put up some sample here:

CV-Nokton 35/1.4 problem - a set on Flickr

 

I'm not seeing much that bothers me there...

[farnz]

Were you using it with the M8? I use one currently with a M2 and like it. I've also had the PII version at f/2.5. My main concern is not the quality of voigtlander stuff, but how it works with the M8 specifically.

Yes, I was. It seems that there can be significant variance between different samples of the same Voigtlander lenses, as supported by Sean Reid's reviews, so it is conceivable that others' experiences may differ from mine with the same lens.

 

Sorry, I've never used either version of the Voigtlander 35/2.5 Pancake lens.

 

Pete.

[rondeb]

I have the MC version of the lens and absolutely love it. I'm getting rid of my 4th gen. 35 because I just don't use it. I love the speed, focus is spot on, sharpness in good.

Here's a shot from today - plenty sharp and fairly resistant to flare. I was shooting into the sun.

 

Best,

Ron

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[Bo_Lorentzen]

Ron,

 

Great shot. Engagement portrait.?

 

I have the same 35mm 1.4 MC - like it very much, I find there is a back-focus issue around 2.8, and generally use it at wide open or at 5.6 or lower.

 

.

[morffin]

I have the 1.4 ....good lens..even wide open...very good lens closed a couple of stops.

 

I had the 1.2 but found it was too heavy and was messing up the lens locking mechanism on the M8.

 

The 1.4 is compact ...smooth and sharp.

 

Maybe I got lucky and got a good one.

[jsrockit]

I find there is a back-focus issue around 2.8...

 

What does this mean?

 

Also, guys, I have the lens already... what I don't have is a M8. I was wondering if the M8 plays nice with this specific lens... not if the lens is good or not, since I am already using the lens. Anything I should know about using this lens with an M8? Any issues?

[Bo_Lorentzen]

jsrockit,

 

The 35mm 1.4 have a backfocus issue when stopping down.

 

If you do a simple test you will see the result.

 

Set up 5 dominos about 1m from your camera, focus on the middle, then stop down to 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6 etc...

 

You will notice when closing down, at 2.8 the domino behind the first one is actually focused. the focus have moved backwards a little. this effect continue as you stop down. however around f 4.0 the depth of field is big enough that it start to cover the original domino you focused on.

 

This is VERY little we are talking about here, but enough that it can be seen in images if you look for it.

 

Practically this is a great lens, I love how it renders and how the pictures from it looks.

 

Practically I use the lens either wide open.. (why else would I buy a 1.4 lens anyway) or I stop down to 4 or 5.6 (in my case its mostly 5.6) I avoid using 2 and 2.8 which will move the focus from the near eye to a little back in a portrait.... This don't bother me one bit, I use the lens for shallow dof, or stop down for bright light or much more sharpness /dof.

 

BTW. this effect is more pronounced on the M8 than on a film M, because of the magnification from the sensor crop-factor.

 

.

[jsrockit]

jsrockit,

 

The 35mm 1.4 have a backfocus issue when stopping down.

 

If you do a simple test you will see the result.

 

Set up 5 dominos about 1m from your camera, focus on the middle, then stop down to 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6 etc...

 

You will notice when closing down, at 2.8 the domino behind the first one is actually focused. the focus have moved backwards a little. this effect continue as you stop down. however around f 4.0 the depth of field is big enough that it start to cover the original domino you focused on.

 

This is VERY little we are talking about here, but enough that it can be seen in images if you look for it.

 

BTW. this effect is more pronounced on the M8 than on a film M, because of the magnification from the sensor crop-factor.

 

.

 

Thanks for the explanation. That helps immensely.

[Artorius]

jsrockit,

 

The 35mm 1.4 have a backfocus issue when stopping down.

 

If you do a simple test you will see the result.

 

Set up 5 dominos about 1m from your camera, focus on the middle, then stop down to 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6 etc...

 

You will notice when closing down, at 2.8 the domino behind the first one is actually focused. the focus have moved backwards a little. this effect continue as you stop down. however around f 4.0 the depth of field is big enough that it start to cover the original domino you focused on.

 

This is VERY little we are talking about here, but enough that it can be seen in images if you look for it.

 

Practically this is a great lens, I love how it renders and how the pictures from it looks.

 

Practically I use the lens either wide open.. (why else would I buy a 1.4 lens anyway) or I stop down to 4 or 5.6 (in my case its mostly 5.6) I avoid using 2 and 2.8 which will move the focus from the near eye to a little back in a portrait.... This don't bother me one bit, I use the lens for shallow dof, or stop down for bright light or much more sharpness /dof.

 

BTW. this effect is more pronounced on the M8 than on a film M, because of the magnification from the sensor crop-factor.

 

.

 

Bo,

I've always wondered about how to do this correctly with an RF. Does it make any difference between setting the f/stop and focusing vs. focusing then setting the f/stop.

[Bo_Lorentzen]

Art,

 

A rangefinder is basically a "distance measuring device to set a lens" sooo it measures a distance and by rotating the lens you have set the distance.. the lens only know the distance and do not care what f.stop you are using.

 

Generally, try to have your exposure set, shutter speed and f.stop selected and set before starting to focus and frame a image.

 

.

[Epimetheus]

The 35mm 1.4 have a backfocus issue when stopping down.

 

Not all of them. I had a copy which didn't backfocus on any aperture.

[thegrantgreen]

i'm using one. my only lens.

i like it.

 

here are some examples.

matthias thoelen's photosets on Flickr

[jsrockit]

Looks like this is going to be my combo... I'm gonna go for the M8. Goodbye M2.

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[lct]

Anyone using the M8 with a Voigtlander Nokton single coated lens?...

No M8 sorry, i'm using the CV 35/1.4 SC with my Epsons.

It is a very good lens if:

- You use it at f/1.4 or f/2;

- You want the same smooth bokeh as the pre-asph Summilux 35 with more sharpness at full aperture, but no glow;

- You stick a good hood on the lens as this little gem flares a lot, even more than the latest pre-asph 'Lux.

But using it at f/2.8 and slower is a no no because of focus shift IMHO.