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It's well documented that the M240 is not able to go past 8 seconds shutter duration when set at ISO 800 and further which makes successful Milky Way type of pictures very difficult (standard being something like 30 seconds at ISO 1600 at f2). Well after some searching today I found a post where a guy had discovered that using the M set on auto ISO and in continuous shoot mode when set on bulb he could get 60 seconds. However even when auto ISO high limit was set at 3600 ISO the exposure turned out at 800 ISO the camera not shifting the the highest ISO in the auto setting. Anyway after some experimentation I found that if I took a shot first in A shutter mode at ISO 1600 and then go back to auto ISO it would still use 1600 since auto ISO uses the last used ISO when set to bulb. So with this I was able to get and exposure of 60 seconds at 1600 ISO when ISO is in auto, shutter set to B and in continuous shot C. Recap Set auto ISO upper limit to 1600 or above Set ISO to 1600 and take a picture Set ISO to auto Set shutter to B Set shoot mode to C Take a shot and hold down the shutter button After 60 secs it will automatically close the shutter Of course in the real world you would use a cable release and make the necessary exposure time, say 30 seconds for the Milky Way at f2 Now I just have to find somewhere to shoot the Milky Way which is not easy when you live in Shanghai :-)
Hi guys, I am new to this forum and I would like to share a modification that I did to my Panasonic LC1 last night. Some of you might find it useful, so here it is. From my film days and with my other digital cameras (R1 & 30D), I got used to shooting in 3:2 aspect ratio (which I find much more appealing). However, my newly acquired LC1 doesn't allow me to do that, reminds the whole thing into guesswork. After taking few photos, I noticed that if I cropped the 4:3 image the whole composition was going astray. So I decided to put some sort of guidelines on the LCD. I tried putting two lines on the LCD window with a permanent felt pen. No, it didn't help, you need to look straight to make sure they appear in correct positions. So I decided to put them between the TFT unit and glass cover. I could have marked the TFT using a pen, but I thought the fine machinery of the camera would request something more of a 'steampunk' style. So I chose to put thin wires. :-) Here is the final result: Here is a flickr set that I created, describing the process: Panasonic LC1 LCD aspect ratio guide hack... - a set on Flickr And here is another flickr set that I created earlier, describing the total strip down process for LC1/D2: Panasonic LC1 Disassembly - a set on Flickr Hope you'll enjoy them... K.