M9 - coincidence at infinity

[alex7075]

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Sorry; Considering the whole thread is about 'Coincidence at infinity' your statement is completely misplaced IMHO.

 

 

That's true! 

 

When I say "slightly off" I mean something really barely visible; and from a practical point of view, if that's the price to pay only with the Noct to have all distances on all lenses perfectly in focus (included infinity), it seemed fair to me.

The thread is also about being able to trust the rangefinder at all distances.

 

Even if, referring to the main subject of the thread, you're absolutely right.

Edited October 6, 2015 by alex7075

[liondeciel]

great information!!! thanks everyone!

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[rapids41]

Hi again,

 

my M9-P just came back from Leica with a new sensor after 2 month.

Unfortunately the rangefinder is off now.

The problem is at close distance the rangfinder window does not start moving directly when focusing.

So I think the problem is the stop arm, which stops to early:

 

 

Someone has ever fixed this issue?

Can I not simply rotate the eccentric cam B?

Please no advices to sent it back to Leica again, I will fix as much as I can on my own, thanks.

Edited November 21, 2015 by rapids41

[rapids41]

Just managed to bent the stop arm.

Very easy and now everything is perfect again. 

[Echo63]

Julian Thompson - thank you so much for all the info on the first page

 

i have just successfully recalibrated my M240's Infinity adjustment.

i don't know how long it has been "off" but my new (to me) 90 M rocker shows up a major back focus issue, that was there with my 50, but was hidden by my tendency to shoot at f4-5.6 (i had noticed my pictures were looking a little softer than when the gear was brand new though)

 

both lenses focus perfectly now ! 

 

going to add a good 2mm allen key to my bag, and grind a screwdriver to fit the arm length adjuster.

[poligow]

 

Julian Thompson : thank you   

[jaapv]

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Just managed to bent the stop arm.

Very easy and now everything is perfect again. 

Not a good idea. Bending the arm is meant for (very rarely) midrange adjustment.

[poligow]

Julian Thompson : thank you   

 

 

to add some infos :

i had trouble to get a perfectly focused image on my M9 with my 50 Summicrons (both a modern V5 one and a rigid one).

i first wanted to tweak the pivot point, but it was impossible to loose the screw, even with a good screw driver (i use Bost or Facom tools).

then i discovered my problem came from the infinity which was slightly off. when i usually shot to the infinity i never check for the rangefinder alignment, i just focus the lens to the max ...

so i tweaked the roller cam. it took me 10 minutes and a few test shots to get a perfect result !

[M11 for me]

i am very sorry to announce that all these findings are not valid any more. I just took the lens off my M10 and do you know what I saw? The first screw is not made for an ordinary screw driver. You need a special tool. Further there is some kind of glue around that screw so that the Leica service immediately sees if something has bee fiddeled around. And even worse: On the side of the wheel there is no opening that you can put a tool in. No, just a round opening. Seemingly Leica wantet to stopp us adjusting the things by ourselves . . . .

[Rus]

i am very sorry to announce that all these findings are not valid any more. I just took the lens off my M10 and do you know what I saw? The first screw is not made for an ordinary screw driver. You need a special tool. Further there is some kind of glue around that screw so that the Leica service immediately sees if something has bee fiddeled around. And even worse: On the side of the wheel there is no opening that you can put a tool in. No, just a round opening. Seemingly Leica wantet to stopp us adjusting the things by ourselves . . . .

 

not good news for me...

 

Can you possibly post a photo of the RF unit of the M10 please? 

 

Thanks!

[jdlaing]

i am very sorry to announce that all these findings are not valid any more. I just took the lens off my M10 and do you know what I saw? The first screw is not made for an ordinary screw driver. You need a special tool. Further there is some kind of glue around that screw so that the Leica service immediately sees if something has bee fiddeled around. And even worse: On the side of the wheel there is no opening that you can put a tool in. No, just a round opening. Seemingly Leica wantet to stopp us adjusting the things by ourselves . . . .

No. That is a lacquer applied to stop the screw from moving. A cotton swab with a little acetone will free it for adjustment. The "special tool" is available everywhere. Leica could care less if you adjust it yourself.

[M11 for me]

I just shot quickly a makro and I see now that I was only half right. The wheel is made for an allen wrench after all. I did not see this when I just looked without magnification. On the other hand the left screw's construction has definitely changed and a normal screwdriver does not fit anymore. Further there is that lacquer applied . . .

 

 

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[pico]

There is no rationale for that fastener head other than to discourage user maintenance.

 

I would dissolve the adhesive (possibly Loctite's 'post fastening' fluid), and try a

good gunsmith's screwdriver on a right-angle ratchet. It has a single rather than

flat X type blade, but if you muck up one, there's the other.

 

Gunsmith screwdrivers are special because they have various blade thicknesses,

and proper thickness fit is critical in screw fasteners. You want to fill the slot.

 

This the set I use. Google Chapman tools.

Edited July 13, 2017 by pico

[Rus]

Thanks for the photo Alex. 

 

Glad to see that the wheel is still controlled by the allen key. With regard to the eccentric screw being "locked" by glue, I actually wonder if this makes the RF mechanism more robust -- provided that it has been properly calibrated to the standard, of course -- since there is now only one moving part that is likely to slightly shift position through long-term use. 

[jaapv]

There is no rationale for that fastener head other than to discourage user maintenance.

 

I would dissolve the adhesive (possibly Loctite's 'post fastening' fluid), and try a

good gunsmith's screwdriver on a right-angle ratchet. It has a single rather than

flat X type blade, but if you muck up one, there's the other.

 

Gunsmith screwdrivers are special because they have various blade thicknesses,

and proper thickness fit is critical in screw fasteners. You want to fill the slot.

 

This the set I use. Google Chapman tools.

Acetone in miniscule quantities will do the trick. It will reset after evaporation. Adjusting the screw will mainly affect close focus, as opposed  the eccentric in the roller wheel which is meant for infinity adjustment. Usually that is all you need.

[jdlaing]

Thanks for the photo Alex.

 

Glad to see that the wheel is still controlled by the allen key. With regard to the eccentric screw being "locked" by glue, I actually wonder if this makes the RF mechanism more robust -- provided that it has been properly calibrated to the standard, of course -- since there is now only one moving part that is likely to slightly shift position through long-term use.

See that cam lever? It rotates on the axis of that screw. It would loosen over time with constant turning. Loctite is not good on the screw threads as it is meant to be adjusted. The spot of lacquer just locks it in place from loosening while still being able to be set free for adjustments.

[pico]

Glad to see that the wheel is still controlled by the allen key.

 

Is it? Really?

[jdlaing]

Is it? Really?

Yes. Really.

[chlky0001]

I just shot quickly a makro and I see now that I was only half right. The wheel is made for an allen wrench after all. I did not see this when I just looked without magnification. On the other hand the left screw's construction has definitely changed and a normal screwdriver does not fit anymore. Further there is that lacquer applied . . .

 

M262 has the same coupling set up, I adjusted the wheel with allen key while turned the screw and arm (didn't see the glue initially). the focus is spot on now. 

 

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[gippo]

Acetone in miniscule quantities will do the trick. It will reset after evaporation. Adjusting the screw will mainly affect close focus, as opposed  the eccentric in the roller wheel which is meant for infinity adjustment. Usually that is all you need.

 

Excuse me a question: acetone for nail polish (woman) okay?

thank you