RonM

With the new Sino battery, (which came at 40% charge) I discharged it down to 10% (according to the M10) and then recharged it. I let it run down again (Leave battery save OFF, and it should take about 2-3 hours) then recharged it when at about 10%. Each re-charge was to 100%. I did this cycle three times, and so far the Sino has been working just like the Leica and the camera's capacity report has been accurate.

Not sure what these are made of but I tried searching for 'camera wrenches.' https://www.ebay.com/itm/376480318106?_skw=camera+wrench&itmmeta=01K2Q5PZ490X0C5WHE8D41WVMJ&hash=item57a7f9c29a:g:n2MAAeSwPu5onUdT&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eBUYtwnuZ2Kp4m41rz9cp%2B0cReKZS0EnCaBkWShZ4ba4OvAFKkKgyfIiGFqGWPCkA8aNtg0bagy4gFkJ24IeUol4%2Bgd6i4Joe1QfTKaYCSOLjYRNR4oa9EzqkIjAZuN%2FsvfvIIGRKoqEf5ezkspfeiY19lx%2BHK9iQW5zSTCDrp8XYAHahjaiFZ7Alc7x8unF04IqrHy8Dk%2BY73mqGZO%2BJBgCa4OMFWhEKvUTPHa7WadMGge%2BumM23%2F47e0gbuXoZU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7Ly2-WVZg

PROBLEM SOLVED! Jgeenen, thanks for the suggestion to make the last mark a bit wider; that did the trick, and now I am seeing "f/2 50mm" and the info in PhotoShop's 'Lens Correction filter' is correct! Your coding looks fine, and the main thing is that it is working and looks fine to the sensors. Thanks for your help. Robbie, I have a paint pen on order, which should be blacker and more permanent. I will look into the Akara template; thanks for that info. I will also look into the uni-ball Super Ink Marker Permanent pen, since another Voigt lens (21mm) is on the way, and will need coding. Ron

I may be experiencing the same problem as I found in this post: I am using a template for coding my 50mm f/2 Lanthar as the "Leica APO Summicron M 50mm vI," ( code is 101001) but the camera is showing it as a "1.4 50mm." I have an ultrs fine black paint Sharpie coming in a few days, (currently using an ultra fine tip Milwaukee black ink marker) but wonder if I might be missing something besides the marking quality. Does anyone with the Voigt. lens know what the camera should display? I have tried erasing and re-doing the marks, and it always comes up the same. Any other suggestions??

It is interesting that most of them are in a row across the bottom of the frame, in a relatively straight line, and are all about the same size. Not sure if this would be condensation.

The springs are actually the thin strips of metal under the shoe's flanges, as indicated in a.noctilux' label above. Look under the "Leica M10" flange for a thin strip of metal that should be slightly 'bent' upward to increase its pressure on the shoe's flange. Same on the other flange at the left, hidden by the hand.

I agree that a trip back to Leica is probably in order, but as to the settings backup battery, according to the manual (p131 of the English one) all that is needed is for the fully charged camera battery to be installed; the camera does not need to be turned on for the internal battery to be charged. According to the manual, it will take 1 to 2 days to recharge the internal battery and the internal battery charge should last about 2 months.

David, Remember, to be fully functional the Nikkor lenses have to be the older models that have an aperture ring on them! For the 135 M lens, the 020 viewfinder would come in handy, since as you said, holding the rig at arm's length to focus/frame would not be practical. I have found the viewfinder very helpful for the two extreme focal lengths I have; 135mm and 21mm, and also for the old 105mm Mico Nikkor I use occasionally.

Yes, definitely talk to your doctor before the surgery; for some patients the Toric lenses can correct their astigmatism. Also, I agree with some of the other eyeglass wearers; 35mm barely visible by looking to the edges, but no way to see the entire 28mm frame. Keep in mind that the 020 EVF viewfinder may be an option for you too, although, yes, I know it is not the "rangefinder experience."

No screws, just look under the two 'flanges' of the shoe, and you will see thin metal strips coming up from the bottom of the shoe, running from front to back. Just carefully bend these upward a bit by slipping something thin and narrow (a jeweler's screwdriver, or in Erl's case a Swiss Army knife!) under the strip and carefully lift up a bit at a time.

If you have the ISO setting in your "Favorites" menu, then one push of the 'Menu' button, brings you to the setting. This might possibly be just about as fast as unlocking, turning, and locking the ISO dial. Granted, this is a compromise, but it does take the ISO dial out of the picture if you feel it is not reliable.

Thanks for that tip; I find my 21mm finder is also a bit loose, so this should do the trick!

Automatic mode might work, since all you need it the center "trigger" contact and the shoe's comman contact, BUT, the other contacts on the flash might carry a voltage that might cause damage to the non-Leica camera's circuits. While it is possible, it is up to you to decide if you want to give it a try. I don't know if any searching on-line will offer any better answer.

Don't you have to choose whether the ISO is done by the dial or by the buttons? (P. 156 in the downloaded manual)