geotrupede Posted September 19, 2009 Share #1 Posted September 19, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) A beginner question for the more experienced, is the M8's noise just a high ISO related limitation or has it to do with low EV situation (long exposures or high iso required)? i.e. are these two situations noisy the same or not? iso 1600, 2s, f2 iso 200, 16s, f2 Is it possible to take pictures of stars in motion? (exposure >>1 hour) Once the exposure is taken, is there any additional delay due to noise reduction? How long it takes? Same as time of shot? Thanks G PS M8 dreaming... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 19, 2009 Posted September 19, 2009 Hi geotrupede, Take a look here M8 / noise / curiosity. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
photoshutter Posted September 19, 2009 Share #2 Posted September 19, 2009 A beginner question for the more experienced, is the M8's noise just a high ISO related limitation or has it to do with low EV situation (long exposures or high iso required)? i.e. are these two situations noisy the same or not? iso 1600, 2s, f2 iso 200, 16s, f2 Is it possible to take pictures of stars in motion? (exposure >>1 hour) Once the exposure is taken, is there any additional delay due to noise reduction? How long it takes? Same as time of shot? Thanks G PS M8 dreaming... Yes, Same as time of shot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geotrupede Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted September 19, 2009 thanks, ok, so I guess no photos of stars... btw, what about noise Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
epand56 Posted September 20, 2009 Share #4 Posted September 20, 2009 I've noticed on my M8 that noise at high Iso is mainly related to wrong exposure. The better you expose, the less noise you get. I've got my best results by over-exposing a little and then recovering in PP. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted September 20, 2009 Share #5 Posted September 20, 2009 Since I bought my first M8 in June 2007, I’ve been using Adobe Camera RAW to process DNG files. Probably, because I was already more comfortable using Photoshop than CaptureOne (I didn’t know this program) but also because CaptureOne LE 3.7.x was not fully compatible with Microsoft Vista. Recently, I decided to update CaptureOne LE 3.7.x to CaptureOne LE 4.8.3 (free upgrade). Concerning noise, I must say I get less noise using CaptureOne! Last night I did a dirty test. I took some pictures here at my house in the country (light was terrible: low consumption bulbs) at ISO 1250 and ISO 2500 and I was really impressed with the results. Of course, I’m not saying M8 is good at high ISO… but using CaptureOne is noticeably better than Adobe Camera RAW. I agree with Enrico: A good exposure is the key to get less noise. I tried underexposing and overexposing from -2/3 to +2/3 correcting exposure afterwards with software. I also get the best results overexposing +1/3 or +2/3 and using these parameters: ICC Profile: Leica M8 generic UV-IR Curve: Film High Contrast Increasing a bit contrast may help on dark areas. Well, I think, from now on I will stop using Photoshop CS4 Camera RAW to process my DNG... at least for low light shots Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geotrupede Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted September 21, 2009 thanks for the infos G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 21, 2009 Share #7 Posted September 21, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) thanks,ok, so I guess no photos of stars... btw, what about noise I should not know why you shouldn't take photographs of stars. The long-exposure noise reduction works with a black frame, i.e. the camera takes a black shot of the same length of the exposure to determine the hot pixels and subtracts them. That way no fine detail is lost, not even on pixel level. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
germanlaws Posted September 21, 2009 Share #8 Posted September 21, 2009 @ArtZ: There´s a little Problem if you use the way you do: changing the Exposure with the camera´s software in the menu, the "+" item makes a shorter time; means the photo will be underexposured. (That´s the way I usually take outdoor fotos, adjusting them in C1) If you wnat to overexposure, you will have to use the "-" setting, right? lg from Willich/Germany Dieter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted September 21, 2009 Share #9 Posted September 21, 2009 @ArtZ: There´s a little Problem if you use the way you do: changing the Exposure with the camera´s software in the menu, the "+" item makes a shorter time; means the photo will be underexposured. (That´s the way I usually take outdoor fotos, adjusting them in C1) If you wnat to overexposure, you will have to use the "-" setting, right? lg from Willich/Germany Dieter Forgive me if I'm suffering from total brain death here, but isn't it the other way around? ('-' = underexposure and '+' = overexposure?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted September 21, 2009 Share #10 Posted September 21, 2009 @ArtZ: There´s a little Problem if you use the way you do: changing the Exposure with the camera´s software in the menu, the "+" item makes a shorter time; means the photo will be underexposured. (That´s the way I usually take outdoor fotos, adjusting them in C1) If you wnat to overexposure, you will have to use the "-" setting, right? lg from Willich/Germany Dieter Dieter, If I use the M8 on "Auto" mode, I will overexpose from +1/3 to +2/3 using the "SET" button at the back of the camera... and then I will correct the exposure (underexpose) on CaptureOne. If I use "Manual" mode, I will overexpose of 1/3 or 2/3 stop decreasing the shutter speed and I will underexpose on CaptureOne For ISO 1250 +1/3 is usually enough, for ISO 2500 I get better results with +2/3 but it really depends on the available light and the scene (dark/light colors, shadows...) Regards ArtZ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trs Posted September 21, 2009 Share #11 Posted September 21, 2009 Regarding >1hr exposure, I can't say for sure, but it does not seem to work. While I was in Sedona, sky looked great. So, I thought I give a try. setup the camera, put on bulb with cable release locked. Went back outside to check about 1/2 hour later, camera had decided to close the shutter. I think it closed around 15 minutes. But, I have not bothered to check the behavior since there is not much of chance for star trail photo around Seattle. My guess is that there might be an upper limit on length of the exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalina Posted September 21, 2009 Share #12 Posted September 21, 2009 A beginner question for the more experienced, is the M8's noise just a high ISO related limitation or has it to do with low EV situation (long exposures or high iso required)? i.e. are these two situations noisy the same or not? iso 1600, 2s, f2 iso 200, 16s, f2 Is it possible to take pictures of stars in motion? (exposure >>1 hour) Once the exposure is taken, is there any additional delay due to noise reduction? How long it takes? Same as time of shot? Thanks G PS M8 dreaming... I believe, short of using a full-frame sensor camera that's rated for high ISO work, you're going to see noise at both of these settings no matter what camera you use. Some cameras treat photos with noise reduction so you might not see artifacts and stray lit pixels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wparsonsgisnet Posted September 21, 2009 Share #13 Posted September 21, 2009 I generally apply reduction using Neat Image when I find the noise annoying. Sometimes it is only noticeable in the shadow areas. Another nice trick is to convert to b/w so that the noise looks like grain. Doesn't help, of course, if you need a color image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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