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geotrupede

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About geotrupede

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  1. Thank you, your image shows precisely the issue, once you set your preferred control layout, that does not work... This would be useful, for example I could finally zoom on a particular area of the image and look for the exposure value and adjust as preferred. Or simply adjust focus AND exposure at the same time. Now I need to adjust exposure and then to focus, sloooooow coming from an M. Auto ISO and all auto is not of interest. I would be happy for the interface to work as intended, more so considering "how much the leica menu designers thought this true and adding logic and s
  2. Dear Photoworks, did you try? Does it work? Can you please tell me how to? I do not seem to be able to adjust shutter speed in manual model when the view is zoomed in as BOTH wheels do the same thing. In the menu and manual it would appear there is a choice to assign shutter to one wheel and zoom to the other, but then this choice does not change the behaviour of the controls. If you got it to work would be great to know how you did, as it is an important feature (which worked in SL). G.
  3. To focus with manual lenses it is a great feature to 'zoom in' into the image. However when this is done there is no way to adjust shutter speed. In the manual and in the menu it would appear that this is possible, but then it is not. step 1, locate Customize control step 2, locate Wheel Asignement (MF-lens) step 3, select the preferred layout under the M mode, Magnification or Shutter Speed to each of the wheels step 3, press joystick, the EVF shows a zoomed in image to check focus step 4, use front wheel, back wheel > both adjust the image zoom. none adjust shutte
  4. sl2s via usb-c is fine, you can use forever, no battery drain. with sl, I had two batteries, once one was done it was going to charge and the other one in. but I suspect batteries would have lasted for a year or so under this regime... which is expensive... G>
  5. Hi all, I have seen some images taken with this lens, know nothing about it, except it seems an expensive one. I was wondering of any equivalent alternative? Noctilux old series comes to mind but the Dallmeyer Kinematograph has even more twirly bokeh? How is this possible? What is your view? G.
  6. I had two batteries and a charger ready... until I have upgraded to the sl2-s sadly as the upgrade is such for a number of things, but some others are rather a downgrade (PC sync, GPS, body design, pre viz of exposure settings, etc etc). G.
  7. What a stellar answer and analysis! Totally agree! I would add that because of this, the pool of paid update users would be so little that there is not commercial incentive to even try. Leica users aren't many so either these upgrades cost a lot or there will be no way to support (=pay for) their development. Which implies little time to develop and most likely little functionality. Let's stick to the bug correction and the way of kaizen. G.
  8. Anyway, a matter of viewpoints. Just to state I aknowledge there are different views I do not agree with. Peace and Love!
  9. The high end / luxury manufacturers, such as Leica, take pride in giving us the best experience possible. At a very premium price. Nobody complains. Nobody asks for discounts. We all pay big money for cameras and lenses. It is sad thinking of them adopting a ransomware like logic, where to unlock a product potential one needs to pay an extra. And it is almost offensive to a brand like Leica to think that they would charge us, say 100 pounds, when one has spent thousands on their products. Thinking that a small fraction of us will then proceed and buy the update makes this financial
  10. I do not see any justification in buying a luxury brand and then be robbed in order to use it at its full potential. if it is a luxury item there is a need to honesty, integrity, luxurious experience, all included at an excruciating cost, but without having to think about 20 quids here and 40 there in order to enjoy. Seems cheap and unconventional and not luxurious at all. Mean if you ask me. Expensive yes, but paid subscription is a cheap scenario to end up with. Most of us buy the brand and the object to enjoy, are devoted to the object, love it. Now make it a paid to use one but
  11. I typically shoot with a M9 Monochrom. The SL2S gets really close. It is the incredible ISO performance that manages to avoid the blotched colour conversion at high ISO (when the blue channel starts being cloudy). I can barely tell the difference. It was not the case with an M240 or earlier models so I would recommend it for sure. The high ISO is so good that you can easily use 6400 and 1/1000 with f16 in overcast condition, for point and shoot fast street stuff. Plus many frames per second. In summary it is a real beast. About colour, I like them a lot. Very nice, warm, golden. V
  12. I looked into this and got the following option https://www.manfrotto.com/uk-en/camera-cage-for-medium-dslr-camera-mvccm/ (medium size) The main issue is that if you take it off frequently, it will scratch the camera unless you are very careful. Also, it is a discontinued product and you can find it at a good price so check well before purchasing, I found it at 50% of the listing price. Otherwise it is nice and well made, you will then need to add all other accessories if you have a screen, etc. For that I have an hot shoe mount adapter, which goes to the cage in the handle, like
  13. SL2S is a great camera, video is the selling point for me and of course native lenses wit autofocus and other gadgets. Using M is possible and results are pretty much identical to the Ms I have (I do not have an M10, but compared to M9, MM and M8 there are not obvious issues, results look better on the SL2S, apart Monochrom of course...). Wide lenses look good, 28f2, 21f3.4 and Voigtlander 15 4.5 all seem ok. I would not consider this model for pure photography without video, as I only use M lenses. The M focusing system is faster with M lenses. It is good on the SL2S as you
  14. Look, it all depends on what you are taking pictures of... if it is street then shake is not really an issue as you would likely try 1/1000th of a second with a 28mm and use f16 and high iso if cloudy. and if really dark then you could use flash to get sharp image plus trails with low shutter speed (at night usually). so no need to stabilise anything... if you are looking at landscape then you may have a tripod, if you have the urge of a shot but it is dark there is the iso too which is INCREDIBLE at 6400... BUT Admittedly I seldom use lenses beyond 50mm... and of course for tele is
  15. novoflex is a decent adapter, in my experience, you can activate correction if you wish but can also apply later in capture one picking the right lens. and about ibis, it is cool but I suspect eat the battery so unless you need is better off. for me this means not using lens code and select it when I need ibis (which is seldom for me as we are in lockdown!!!!). G>
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