wlaidlaw Posted October 23, 2011 Share #21 Posted October 23, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Update: I have found a seller on ePrey, who was selling a whole set of Contax-ish black metal GG hoods and a cap. He was prepared to sell me the GG1 (wide angle) hood and cap only for $21.50 including P&P. PM me if anyone wants his email address. One of the main reasons I wanted to get the 28, was to have a mini travel lens and the Frankenhood just spoiled that concept. I also have a feeling that the leverage of this large hood, could be a factor in the front section coming loose. I already had a 28mm on my MATE but this is a big lens with the correct sculpted hood and 28mm, the most used setting on my MATE, is also its weakest length by some margin. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 23, 2011 Posted October 23, 2011 Hi wlaidlaw, Take a look here Loose front part of 28mm 2.0 asph M lens.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Guest malland Posted December 12, 2012 Share #22 Posted December 12, 2012 My Summicron-28 has just came down with the dreaded loose front section problem. The trouble is that tightening the three screws on the front section doesn't do anything. Indeed, if I loosen these three screws the front of the lens loosen so that the section before the aperture ring can be moved in and out slightly. But that is not where the problem is. The problem is that the whole front section of the lens moves in and out between the aperture ring and the distance scale marking, which is not affected by tightening the three screw on the very front of the lens. There are also three screws in the aperture ring itself, but the latter screws do not affect the in and out movement either. Am I missing something, or do I just have to send the lens in for repair, which will be take a good amount of time from Bangkok. —Mitch/Bangkok Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colint544 Posted December 12, 2012 Share #23 Posted December 12, 2012 Having exactly the same problem with my 2010 copy of the 28 'cron. The lens renders the most detailed and beautiful images - it's right up there with the 35 and 50 luxes, as far as I'm concerned. But constantly having to tighten those three tiny screws at the front of the barrel is beginning to take the shine off my experience with this lens. There's clearly some kind of design fault. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest malland Posted December 12, 2012 Share #24 Posted December 12, 2012 My problem is not with the three screws at the front of the barrel. I found the following after an extended Google search: I did something risky, I unscrewed the screws on the bottom and managed to push the lens group up and reveal the tiny screws that holds the front piece together. Apparently one of the screws is loose. I tightened it and now there is zero play. Very happy Interesting. Mine has no problems, but I'd like to know which screws you turned in case I do one day. The screws that control the tightening of the front piece are behind the aperture ring. To adjust it, you'll have to take off the screws on lens mount. Then the whole unit can be pushed up a little so you can adjust the screws. Unless the problem becomes quite bad line mine I wouldn't attempt to it, or at least send it to Solms. Anyone have any comments on doing this? —Mitch/Bangkok Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 13, 2012 Share #25 Posted December 13, 2012 Mine fell off my 28 Summicon in use about a month ago. completely. Then today, the same thing happened to my 50 summilux which is only a a few weeks old. I did see lock tight of some sort around the screw, but nevertheless was very very annoying as the screw dropped onto the pavement. When I finally found the screw and reinserted it this evening, It was pretty clear the screw threads aren't matching. Perhaps some of Leicas taps are wearing....and a go-no-gauge would be appropriate...... On a happy note. Thanks to this forum I bought the old 35/1,4 Lens hood and installed it on my 28 summicron and it looks and works awesome. Anything but the 28's frankenhood. My Summicron 50 asph has one of the little screws "made fitting" by a little glob of rubber sticky stuff in the hole....New from factory.... It works well, so I leave it at that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fang Posted December 13, 2012 Share #26 Posted December 13, 2012 Wow, this seems to be a real problem with the 28mm Cron. Mine had similar problems - under warranty so Leica Store in Kuala Lumpur had to sent it to Leica in Singapore to fixed it and was charge a handling fee. Got it back after 3 weeks. I dare not fix it myself; moreover the screw should be misplace somewhere in Vietnam - that was when I first notice it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyedward Posted December 14, 2012 Share #27 Posted December 14, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Would a tiny amount of threadlock on the screws not help? Isn't this what leica staff use when assembling a lens? I used Loctite Lock & Seal on the loose thread of the lens hood of my 35 lux, and whilst it can still be unscrewed, it is now tight enough Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted December 15, 2012 Share #28 Posted December 15, 2012 My Summicron-28 has just came down with the dreaded loose front section problem. The trouble is that tightening the three screws on the front section doesn't do anything. Indeed, if I loosen these three screws the front of the lens loosen so that the section before the aperture ring can be moved in and out slightly. But that is not where the problem is. The problem is that the whole front section of the lens moves in and out between the aperture ring and the distance scale marking, which is not affected by tightening the three screw on the very front of the lens. There are also three screws in the aperture ring itself, but the latter screws do not affect the in and out movement either. Am I missing something, or do I just have to send the lens in for repair, which will be take a good amount of time from Bangkok. —Mitch/Bangkok Bangkok Hysteria (download link for book project) Mitch, your issue sounds like only a trip to the factory will do it. Your issue seems to be related to the focus mount or the connection between optical cell and focus mount. A strip down of the focus mount and rebuilt is on order - did your lens see much use before showing this symptom? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted December 15, 2012 Share #29 Posted December 15, 2012 Red loctite will never come out possibly making the lens not repairable. Blue Loctite will snug it, but will break loose with force. The problem will be is the force greater than that required to destroy the screw head. Reengineering is usually difficult. I would start with clear nail polish on top of the already tightened screw. Acetone will allow removal. This is a known issue and one reason not to buy this lens. Some users have reported they do not get the same optical performance if they retighten themselves, but perhaps they have not found original detents. Use care not to over tighten and strip out threads. In theory this is best returned to Leica. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted December 15, 2012 Share #30 Posted December 15, 2012 Almost all types of Loctite for thread locking, there are hundreds btw... can be dissolved and loosened with a little heat from a soldering iron. Correct size screwdriver is mandatory for working on lenses. They are not all Phillips size. Just return the lens for repair. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest malland Posted December 15, 2012 Share #31 Posted December 15, 2012 Mitch, your issue sounds like only a trip to the factory will do it.Your issue seems to be related to the focus mount or the connection between optical cell and focus mount. A strip down of the focus mount and rebuilt is on order - did your lens see much use before showing this symptom? No, I haven't used this lens heavily: just a bit when I had an M8. After taking it apart — mistake, for I couldn't put it back together again — it is obvious that the front element is secured to the part behind by just one little flange and screw; and it's not surprising that this becomes could loosen up. I took the lens to a local Leica dealer, who thinks that may be able to fix it but is not sure. The issue is whether the lens will require focus calibration, in which case it would have to go back to the factory. That is a pain because this is the lens that I would use the most on the M-Monochrom. —Mitch/Bangkok Gods for Sale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted December 15, 2012 Share #32 Posted December 15, 2012 Mitch, please let us know, what will be the outcome. Did you take any pictures of the lens, while you where in it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest malland Posted December 16, 2012 Share #33 Posted December 16, 2012 Mitch, please let us know, what will be the outcome. Did you take any pictures of the lens, while you where in it?No, I didn't. To tell the truth, had I even thought about photographing the dismantled lens, I'm afraid I still would not have taken the time to do it — but it doesn't really matter since I didn't solve the problem. I'll let you know what happens: the lens should be ready by the 20th. I did speak to Leica Repair Service in the regional office and was told there was an 80% chance that the lens would have to go to Solms for focus calibration, which is the reason I did not send it there; so that I could avoid the extra shipping to and from Singapore. —Mitch/Bangkok Gods for Sale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest malland Posted December 21, 2012 Share #34 Posted December 21, 2012 Happy to say that I got may Summicron-28 back from today and the Bangkok dealer was able to fix it. They also tested the focus. All for US$100. I took some ten photos at f/2 to f/11 and focused at various distances, and it seems fine. I glad that I don't have to send it to Solms, which obviously has saved me money and time without the lens. If I had to send it to Solms, I would probably do as Solms recommended and send the M-Monochrom as well so that the lens could be focus calibrated together with the camera; but then I would have sent my other lenses as well. Now, I want get a replacement lens hood because I don't like the one that came with the lens, the handling of which may have been what loosened the front lens assembly. The Leica 12466 looks good, but I'm not willing to spend US$360 for a lens hood (plus tax and import duty). There is a 46mm Heavystar hood, as well as other generic 46mm metal screw-in hoods, but haven't found one in Bangkok. I'll use the lens without a hood until I get to Paris in February. —Mitch/Bangkok Gods for Sale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted December 21, 2012 Share #35 Posted December 21, 2012 Mitch, I strongly suggest you have a look at the square plastic lens hood, that come with the Leica 35 Summilux ASPH - this lens hood is a perfect fit for the 28 Summicron and is the most compact and efficient lens hood. I have two of these hoods - one for my 35/1.4 and the other for the 28/2, but I use mostly the 12466, as it's round shape makes handling the camera with attached lens in and out of tight camera bags easier. That would be the hood, here on the 35 Summilux: Leica MP vs M8.2 - iso top by teknopunk.com, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest malland Posted December 21, 2012 Share #36 Posted December 21, 2012 Dirk, do you mean that you prefer the 12466 to the the square plastic lens hood that comes with the Leica 35 Summilux ASPH? Gods for Sale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted December 21, 2012 Share #37 Posted December 21, 2012 Yes, I do, but let's be very honest - the absolute only reasons to do so are: 1) cosmetics 2) the round hood doesn't hook itself into my camera bag, when pulling out and back into the bag Although the second reason is of practical nature, the first dominates and it is indeed a hell of a lot of money, Leica asks one to pay more for the 12466 over the square plastic one from the Summilux 35mm (this is entirely different to the one from the 28/2, which is the former generation plastic hoods, made from a different, more brittle material). As a user lens hood the 35 Summilux square plastic lens hood is almost perfect in my opinion. It also adds the convenience, that capping the lens hood is possible, when traveling with the lens in the luggage. Capping the lens with the 12466 on requires a bit more dexterity ;-) Short: If practical use and smallest, most efficient lens hood is important - go for square plastic hood for 35 Summilux ASPH. If aesthetics and heavy built + round shape is important and money is no subject, go for the 12466 - it's a nice hood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest arild Posted December 21, 2012 Share #38 Posted December 21, 2012 Pm about to be sent,mitch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisPT Posted December 24, 2012 Share #39 Posted December 24, 2012 Merry Christmas to everybody. I got my 28 cron a couple of days ago and was glad that I kept my old worn 35 lux hood. Here's how it looks: Just wonder if the hood causes vignetting if I shoot wide open at 0.7m? Thank you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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