rob139 Posted January 16, 2009 Share #1 Â Posted January 16, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I am new to this forum, have allready read a lot though, thank you all for a lot of useful info. I have treated myself to a very nice M8, and I would also like to use my super angulon f4 on it. I understand that this is possible and have allready tried it out. Problem is that the camera cannot get the right shuttertime, because the lens is protruding too far into the body. This was also a problem with my M6. I read somewhere that three full stops (down I guess) should get this corrected. It seems that the sensor does get some info on light through the lens. Â My questions: is it always three stops? And how is the overall performance of this lens on an M8. Can/must this lens be 6-bit coded for better results? Â Thanks, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Hi rob139, Take a look here super angulon with M8. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wparsonsgisnet Posted January 16, 2009 Share #2  Posted January 16, 2009 Rob, from pl. 86 of the user manual, comes:  Notes: • Exposure metering is not possible with: Super-Angulon-M 21mm f/4 Super-Angulon-M 21mm f/3.4 Elmarit-M 28mm f/2.8 with serial nos. earlier than 2 314 921.  Since the M8 cannot meter with this camera, you cannot get the right shutter speed without setting things yourself.  I guess that means that: Yes, you can use the lens, and Yes, you will have to chimp to make sure you have the right exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted January 16, 2009 Share #3 Â Posted January 16, 2009 ... I guess that means that: Yes, you can use the lens, and Yes, you will have to chimp to make sure you have the right exposure. ... or use a hand-held meter. Â Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 16, 2009 Share #4 Â Posted January 16, 2009 Rob, as Bill has written, you cannot get a correct light measurement, so any rule has to be taken "FWIW" : but I have both the Super Angulons (4 and 3,4) and, just for fun and unscientifically, made a series of tests that are rather easy to do (basically, shooting some easy target with even light - ex. wall of house - with Super Angulon and another lens, like a 28) : my impression is 2 stops for the 3,4 , 2,5 for the 4... repeat, nothing scientific. BTW... the Super Angulon f4 is a splendid object : I love it a lot - a "jewel-like" tiny and elegant piece of glass and chrome... but for use it's surely not the best 21 that one can use on M8.... I have never thought to code my one: but consider that all the "bayonet mount" SA f4 are indeed L39 screw mount, and a "semi permanent" BM adapter (with an incredibly small screw that blocks it along the screw) : this adapter can indeed be removed (it has nothing to do with the std. Leitz SM/BM adapters) and can be one can make a DIY coding of it.... I'll take a look on mine when at home... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 16, 2009 Share #5 Â Posted January 16, 2009 I checked my SA f4 (or, better, its M adapter... I keep the lens in "SM" configuration) : normal chrome flat surface... I'd say it's codable with the various DIY methods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob139 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share #6 Â Posted January 16, 2009 Thank you Luigi, for looking into that. I your opinion, do you think these 2,5 stops count for every light situation, dark or light? And which code should I give the lens, in case of DIY? And does it really matter, does it get better results? Â Cheers, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
heninden Posted January 17, 2009 Share #7 Â Posted January 17, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Rob, I occasionally use a 21/3.4 Super Angulon on my M8. I use the M8 as my light meter. After a guess at the proper exposure, a quick check of the histogram will give me a notion of what the proper adjustment should be. Once this is established for a given lighting situation, shoot away. Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 17, 2009 Share #8  Posted January 17, 2009 Thank you Luigi, for looking into that. I your opinion, do you think these 2,5 stops count for every light situation, dark or light? And which code should I give the lens, in case of DIY? And does it really matter, does it get better results? Cheers, Rob  I haven't sufficient experience of using the SA f4 in real situations to say that 2,5 stops is a right standard adjustement... I made only the tests I mentioned, plus some shots in "normal" situations, in which I can only say it was "about right"... I keep my item just for collector's passion (and for SM use... at all tehoric from the M8 acquisition). Surely coding it would be useful (it has a std. E39 filter, so it's easy to have the UVIR), and I think the logical code would be the one for Elmarit 21 2,8 pre-asph. BTW... have you also the hood ? It's obviously useful, but rare too... I think that on M8 it shouldn't be wrong to find some hood that can fit in, made for a slightly longer focal (24-25 or even 28, of course testing it before) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob139 Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share #9 Â Posted January 17, 2009 Thank you Luigi. Â I guess I have to go out and try. No hood, are there any available? I will use the Super Angulon on my M8 until I can find sufficient funding for a 21mm elmarit, then it can retire on my M2. Â I don't know too much about the coding, perhaps a good idea for another thread, or looking into older threads, but the coding does not seem to be custom for every lens? I think that vignetting on a fifty year old SA is different than an Elmarit 21 pre ASPH? And then, different problems, different solutions? Or is it just the filter and recognition in the RAW data? Â Thanks again, cheers. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 17, 2009 Share #10 Â Posted January 17, 2009 The UVIR filter fixes the problem of "magenta cast on black fabrics" and similar issues (once I took a pic of my daughter with a blue dress, no UVIR... a terrible violet ) but causes also, in the angles, a color distortion (usually called "cyan drift") that is corrected via software DEPENDING on the lens you use, and this is the main reason for lens recognition via coding : to apply a right color correction to the angles ; this is highly depending on lens focal, so, basically, a 21 has to be coded as some 21 for which a coding is provided (btw, the Elmarit 21 un-asph has the "first" code : 000001). The longer the focal, the less the issue is noticeable (for 75-90 there is no appreciable difference if on M8 you set "lens recognition on" or "on with UVIR"). As you say SA4 is an old lens... surely with a less fine correction at angles than the 21 2,8 (even the un-asph... the asph, which I have and use a lot, is really excellent). Maybe a good idea could be to use the coding for a stronger widangle, that is the Wide Angle Tri Elmar (16-18-21) which has its own code. The original hood for the SA4 was the IWKOO, then named 12502 : can be found, but it's always a costly item due to its rarity: I have never tried to find an alternative... if you plan to use your 21, can be an interesting chase... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 17, 2009 Share #11  Posted January 17, 2009 Rob,I occasionally use a 21/3.4 Super Angulon on my M8. I use the M8 as my light meter. After a guess at the proper exposure, a quick check of the histogram will give me a notion of what the proper adjustment should be. Once this is established for a given lighting situation, shoot away. Henry  I've just started using the 3.4 too. As Henry says, its easy enough to sort out exposure, which really is not a big deal. I may try coding my lens and would think that the code for the 21/2.8 non-asph is what I will go for, initially at least. BTW, the 3.4 appears to be a surprisingly good lens, sharp right into the corners, and at f/8 it appears to produce really quite excellent results judging from what I've shot so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 18, 2009 Share #12 Â Posted January 18, 2009 I've just started using the 3.4 too. As Henry says, its easy enough to sort out exposure, which really is not a big deal. I may try coding my lens and would think that the code for the 21/2.8 non-asph is what I will go for, initially at least. BTW, the 3.4 appears to be a surprisingly good lens, sharp right into the corners, and at f/8 it appears to produce really quite excellent results judging from what I've shot so far. Â Yes, the SA 3,4 is really a strong improvement over the f4, and is quite usable on M8...when I took my 21 Asph, more than 1 year ago, I posted a thread of test pictures, with many small details, taken with the 3,4 and the asph, and, apart an appreciable difference in vignetting, the results weren't so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted January 18, 2009 Share #13 Â Posted January 18, 2009 The 3.4 Super Angulon is still a very good lens IMHO. Before the CV 15 issue it was my street shooter for a lot of time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardyee Posted April 12, 2009 Share #14  Posted April 12, 2009 Yes, the SA 3,4 is really a strong improvement over the f4, and is quite usable on M8...when I took my 21 Asph, more than 1 year ago, I posted a thread of test pictures, with many small details, taken with the 3,4 and the asph, and, apart an appreciable difference in vignetting, the results weren't so far.  Hi, my 21mm SA got very strong vignetting and I started wondering if there is actually something wrong with my lens. I have attached 2 very low resolution examples here. Do you think the degree of vignetting is normal for 21mm SA? Many thanks. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/74301-super-angulon-with-m8/?do=findComment&comment=869345'>More sharing options...
coup de foudre Posted April 12, 2009 Share #15 Â Posted April 12, 2009 Hi, my 21mm SA got very strong vignetting and I started wondering if there is actually something wrong with my lens. I have attached 2 very low resolution examples here. Do you think the degree of vignetting is normal for 21mm SA? Many thanks. Â perfectly normal for the lighting conditions and exposure. nothing wrong with your lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickp13 Posted April 12, 2009 Share #16  Posted April 12, 2009 if you code your SA 3.4 (or f4) as a WATE, don't forget to mount the lens to bring up the 90mm framelines. on my example, the coding doesn't work without that step.  of the three WATE settings, 21mm seems best, but doesn't entirely solve the cyan problem. i haven't yet tried the two elmarit codes yet.  good luck  rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardyee Posted April 13, 2009 Share #17 Â Posted April 13, 2009 many thanks to both of you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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