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5 minutes ago, Strmbrg said:

Maybe already mentioned several times, but my main reflection is about the focusing procedure.
If I got it right so:

  1. Open to maximum aperture to get minimum tolerances for accurate focus
  2. Try to focus
  3. Maybe use the red-lit contrast-help
  4. Maybe even zoom in, or if it zooms automatically
  5. Hopefully get it focused by now
  6. Close the aperture if the image needs a smaller value than fully open
  7. Do that by counting clicks or by looking at the lens
  8. Press the shutter-button

If I have got it reasonably right, it looks like a very gear-distracting process. I.e. gear-dominated process. At least to me. Because, adding to this, one must also concentrate on finding motifs, experimenting with positioning, the different objects relative positioning to each other, and trying to avoid distractions in the view, and maybe wait for moving unwanted persons, cars etc to leave the frame...

If you are in a rush, do it like it was done with every M camera: zone focusing.

The focusing procedure with my M-EV1  is simple:

- magnify and focus; only if you have trouble finding focus and have time, open wide aperture to focus.

- press the shutter button

In most situations, focusing with M-EV1 is not much slower than with a rangefinder (based on average rangefinder experience), though it can be faster in some situations (depending on the scene).

 

Edited by SrMi
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I don't focus like that. I turn off focus peaking it's complete useless. What I do is focus the following:

  1. Try to focus in full view, if it's a fast lens wide open, this usually works.
  2. If the lens is stopped down, I use the button by the shutter to magnify, then take the picture.

If it's a very wide angle (such as the 21mm SEM) then I might open the aperture up, focus, then stop down and take the picture. I don't find it much different the rangefinder in actual use.

 

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You are aware that focus peaking is not very precise and comparable to DOF I see.
  If you want critical focus you need to use magnification. I do not find peaking very useful either.  Plain focus on the EVaF is better than peaking. It is certainly better than zone misfocus, although that was quite good on my Agfa Clack in the late fifties, I thought back then 
This goes for all EVFs in manual, the MEV1 will be no exception. 
However, it is quite possible to improve the precision of focus peaking  once you realize that it behaves like DOF. . Close up the plane of focus will be approximately in the middle of the red shimmering focus zone, further off it will approach ⅓  / ⅔. . Add magnification and you will be reasonably precise, albeit never as good and considerably slower than a rangefinder. That will remain the optimal fastest and most reliable method of focusing medium focal lengths. 

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18 hours ago, charlesphoto99 said:

IMO M lenses with an EVF are compromised due to no auto stop down.

If, and its a very big if, Leica had truly wanted to be innovative yet still retain the shape and size of the M rangefinder camera, and at the same time also wanted to retain the optics of the M camera lenses, they could have looked at (and still could) an L mount camera of M dimensions and at the lenses it should use. The critics rightly point out that such a camera would still have to use the 'huge' lenses currently available. Well, Leica could produce M-L lenses (L for both M mount and Legacy) which use the existing lens M optics in a slightly larger, still metal, body but with an auto diaphragm, only manual focus and native L mount. Such lenses would be a bit bigger than M, optically identical, self registering and focused at full aperture, but MF only. The camera would be vastly more versatile than the M EV1, allowing AF with L lenses, full aperture MF with M-L lenses and use of M lenses with the adapter. It would serve as a bridge between M and L mount cameras potentially boosting sales of both. And unlike the M EV1, which is a dead end, it could be seen as a move towards developments of benefit to both M and L systems.

Edited by pgk
typos punctuation
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