jaapv Posted August 29 Share #21 Posted August 29 Advertisement (gone after registration) It need not just be a rangefinder calibration issue. Vintage lenses are designed for use on film; hence the focus tolerances are considerably larger than lenses produced after 2006. It may well be a lens calibration issue that shows up because of the high resolution of the M11. As lens and camera have to be calibrated to a common standard, it would be wise to have both camera and lenses as a set adjusted by a trusted technician. Problems like these are not solved by half-measures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 29 Posted August 29 Hi jaapv, Take a look here M10 to M11. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
lct Posted August 29 Share #22 Posted August 29 +1 although my amittedly pristine legacy lenses from the 50s and 60s have never got the least focus issue on the M11. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 29 Share #23 Posted August 29 Depends on how precisely they were made in the first place-humans built them and as long as they were within tolerance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronaldc Posted August 29 Share #24 Posted August 29 You can easily check the calibration, put camera on a tripod and focus with the screen Evf, take a photo of an object. Then take the same photo using the rangefinder and focus compare both. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted August 29 Share #25 Posted August 29 Yes, but you never know what is off. Lens, camera or both. And just use the LCD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted August 29 Author Share #26 Posted August 29 (edited) Shot images today with Aperture Priority - vintage 50mm Summilux and Modern Voigtlander 50mm APO. Both seemed sharp. So far it looks like a slow shutter speed issue, but more testing needed. Pic 1: 50 Summilux at f4, Pic 2: Voigtlander APO at f4 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited August 29 by Chris W Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/423938-m10-to-m11/?do=findComment&comment=5855561'>More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted August 29 Share #27 Posted August 29 Advertisement (gone after registration) Note that pre-asph 50mm Summilux's can have focus shift around f4. Same with first gen 35 Lux Asph and a few others. That's different from a focus calibration problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted August 29 Author Share #28 Posted August 29 In the original raw files, the closer wing mirror which I focussed on, is pretty sharp in both Summilux and APO shots. I have never had great success using the Summilux at f1.4 or f2, maybe because it's an older lens or maybe because the in-focus plane is so narrow I've never quite nailed it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 29 Share #29 Posted August 29 (edited) Different experience here. No significant focus shift on either Summilux 50/1.4 v3 or Summilux 35/1.4 asph pre-FLE. Both 6-bit coded if this is related to the issue or lack thereof. Bit of focus shift around f/4 on Summicron 35/2 v4 and 50/2 v4 & v5 though. FWIW. Edited August 29 by lct Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted August 29 Share #30 Posted August 29 2 minutes ago, lct said: Different experience here. No significant focus shift on either Summilux 50/1.4 asph v3 or Summilux 35/1.4 asph pre-FLE. Both 6-bit coded if this is related to the issue or lack thereof. Bit of focus shift around f/4 on Summicron 35/2 v4 and 50/2 v4 & v5 though. FWIW. All depends on what you are shooting. If at distance, f4 depth of field will cover the focus shift. It's closer up that one may have issues. My Summilux pre-asph V4 has some focus shift around f4. DAG corrected the lens and said that was typical and not that much he could do about it except find a nice balance between wide open and there. 6 bit coding has nothing to do with it (why would it?). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted August 29 Share #31 Posted August 29 38 minutes ago, Chris W said: In the original raw files, the closer wing mirror which I focussed on, is pretty sharp in both Summilux and APO shots. I have never had great success using the Summilux at f1.4 or f2, maybe because it's an older lens or maybe because the in-focus plane is so narrow I've never quite nailed it. It most likely needs to be calibrated for best focus at f1.4-2. It would then shift a bit around f2.8-f5.6, but for a lot of photos the extra depth of field will mask the shift. This is what DAG did for my version 4. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 29 Share #32 Posted August 29 27 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said: All depends on what you are shooting. If at distance, f4 depth of field will cover the focus shift. It's closer up that one may have issues. Not in my case apparently. I got no more focus shift issues on closeups than medium to long distance. Lenses have been calibrated by Leica when coding them though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
misteracng Posted August 29 Share #33 Posted August 29 This shutter speed issue and needing a shorter speed with the M11 might be due to the fact that metering is off the sensor as opposed to the m10, so the shutter needs to drop down then go through the shutter cycle increasing vibration. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted August 30 Author Share #34 Posted August 30 I'm not a big user of f1.4 anyway, so I guess I'll leave the lens as is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted August 30 Share #35 Posted August 30 (edited) At normal viewing magnification I’ve not noticed a huge difference with the higher megapixel cameras when it comes to motion blur. If you zoom in then it’s a bit more evident than on the older cameras but you are looking at a much more magnified file with 60mp than you are with 24mp. Saying that, I’ve found 1/250th to be a good friend to the M11P/M10R. I prefer to stay here and above and I don’t often drop below 1/125th unless the light is very low. For still subjects I can get usable results even at 1/15th at times. Edited August 30 by costa43 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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