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2 hours ago, Bliz said:

f it's a matter of collecting the boxes and rolls i get it

Guilty, I bought one of each box just to have.  It was suggested the launch boxes would change to a regular box at some point.

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8 minutes ago, Eclectic Man said:

Just wondering whether to run a spool through my now (almost) venerable R5.  How does it compare with FP4+ ?

Finer grain and sharper.

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25 minutes ago, Eclectic Man said:

Just wondering whether to run a spool through my now (almost) venerable R5.  How does it compare with FP4+ ?

I generally preferred PANF+ (ISO 50) to FP4+ for its finer grain and gentle rendering. I've been trying Adox HR 50 which seems to be the basis for Monopan. and its grain is much finer than even PANF+. However, HR50 can seem pretty harsh in contrasty light (sunlight & shadows), and anything red comes out looking quite light - more like I'd expect from yellow on other films. So it takes some adjustment to use it effectively. I'm trying another roll now in my IIIg mainly indoors - after all in the 1951 Leica Manual they call 50 ASA medium speed film suitable for indoor use! Dusted off my 1.5 Summarit instead of a 3.5 Elmar though...

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On 10/4/2025 at 3:39 PM, TomB_tx said:

..... However, HR50 can seem pretty harsh in contrasty light (sunlight & shadows), and anything red comes out looking quite light - more like I'd expect from yellow on other films. So it takes some adjustment to use it effectively. I'm trying another roll now in my IIIg mainly indoors - after all in the 1951 Leica Manual they call 50 ASA medium speed film suitable for indoor use! Dusted off my 1.5 Summarit instead of a 3.5 Elmar though...

Exactly my rationale for buying it. Put it through my IIIf and my M3. One roll each. As you say "medium speed film"!!

Peter

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On 10/4/2025 at 3:39 PM, TomB_tx said:

However, HR50 can seem pretty harsh in contrasty light (sunlight & shadows), and anything red comes out looking quite light - more like I'd expect from yellow on other films. 

HR-50 is highly sensitive to the red spectrum, try it with an IR filter, the results closely match dedicated IR film.

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1 hour ago, PeterD said:

which is sharper than which?

Peter

I often tell by looking at the box, or asking in the camera shop, but if it says '50 ISO' I'm told the film will have finer grain and be sharper than if the box says it's 125 ISO. 

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Out of curiosity I tried ADOX HR 50.  As @TomB_tx mentioned this film is harsh in contrasty light, the shadow area go into deep back easily that requiring more careful in metering.  Buildings in the picture are overexposed in order to keep shadow areas acceptable.

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20 hours ago, swatch said:

Out of curiosity I tried ADOX HR 50.  As @TomB_tx mentioned this film is harsh in contrasty light, the shadow area go into deep back easily that requiring more careful in metering.  Buildings in the picture are overexposed in order to keep shadow areas acceptable.

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It’s fascinating… the end result is what i like.. i think it retains highlights in a good way too for a contrasty looking film

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On 10/6/2025 at 2:37 PM, swatch said:

Out of curiosity I tried ADOX HR 50.  As @TomB_tx mentioned this film is harsh in contrasty light, the shadow area go into deep back easily that requiring more careful in metering.  Buildings in the picture are overexposed in order to keep shadow areas acceptable.

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How would it have been had you simply underexposed by about half a stop? It looks to me like you would get something close to the right hand result. What do you think?

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, PeterD said:

How would it have been had you simply underexposed by about half a stop?

I did in the past with decent results, metering similarly to one would do for slide film.

Edited by Bliz
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On this subject, I can recommend the following article:

https://valentinsama.blogspot.com/2025/08/leica-monopan-50-primeros-resultados.html.


It is in Spanish, but I don't think you will have any difficulty translating it online.
The article, probably the most serious and exhaustive I have read, covers not only a comparison of Monopan and Adox HR50 films, but also the chassis, finding major differences between those of Adox and Leica.  
I hope you like it as much as I do.

best regards 

chema

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58 minutes ago, chema said:

On this subject, I can recommend the following article:

https://valentinsama.blogspot.com/2025/08/leica-monopan-50-primeros-resultados.html.


It is in Spanish, but I don't think you will have any difficulty translating it online.
The article, probably the most serious and exhaustive I have read, covers not only a comparison of Monopan and Adox HR50 films, but also the chassis, finding major differences between those of Adox and Leica.  
I hope you like it as much as I do.

best regards 

chema

Your link does not seem to work....

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, chema said:

On this subject, I can recommend the following article:

https://valentinsama.blogspot.com/2025/08/leica-monopan-50-primeros-resultados.html.


It is in Spanish, but I don't think you will have any difficulty translating it online.
The article, probably the most serious and exhaustive 

It’s exhausting trying to get your link to work, why not just give a précis of the article so people can decide if they want to click on the link?

Edited by 250swb
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On 10/8/2025 at 4:27 PM, PeterD said:

How would it have been had you simply underexposed by about half a stop? It looks to me like you would get something close to the right hand result. What do you think?

@PeterD reduce by half a stop would help in maintaining highlight areas in a more eyes pleasing to viewers, and I guess the shadow areas would not be much in difference.  I believe I will do in future exposure bracketing in contrasting light for ADOX HR 50 and LEICA MONOPAN 50.   Thanks for your food for thought.

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3 hours ago, swatch said:

@PeterD reduce by half a stop would help in maintaining highlight areas in a more eyes pleasing to viewers, and I guess the shadow areas would not be much in difference.  I believe I will do in future exposure bracketing in contrasting light for ADOX HR 50 and LEICA MONOPAN 50.   Thanks for your food for thought.

You could also try a different dilution of the developer or a different developer. The amount of agitation is another factor, very gentle and short agitation for high contrast film is a good idea. Although I don't think intrinsically HR50/Monopan is a high contrast film with the right technique. For example Ilford Pan F (50 ISO) is also a contrasty film unless development and technique is adjusted for it, the obverse being true for may super-high speed films which can look flat. With HR-50 I use FX-39 developer at 1+9 if the photos are predominantly made on a dull low contrast sort of day, but change this to 1+14 if the light has a lot of contrast, adjusting times accordingly. 

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