I can't focus on my street photography

[Xavi]

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Hello, I see that there is a similar post regarding the sharpness problem but more focused on some lens. Like one that I see today that was rescued from 2011

I have been in street photography for many years but always shooting with cameras that have autofocus. I find that I don't know what I have to do to focus well the photographs that I take now with the M 11. I am trying all the systems that I know, shooting at 1/500 with high speeds, I have changed to 36 Mpx and so on when I look at and enlarge the photographs, none have the focus that the photographs I took with similar sensors such as the Sony at 7V the Leica Q3 law had before. 

I have also tried with the hyperfocal, 35mm with f/11 m, 1/500 iso automatic the subject at 6 meters and even then I can't see totally focused photographs. 

I see other people's photos and I see them in focus so I know it has to be a problem of mine. 

When I shoot a stationary object and use the rangefinder, I do get focus. 

I don't know if anyone could give me any tips on what to do. 
Thanks

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[jankap]

You could download on your PC the app FastRawViewer. Herewith, one can see where the focus area in a picture is.

Also show us here one of the questioned pictures.

[TomB_tx]

I'd suggest practice and pre-focus, and don't pixel-peep. Back in the 1960s I shot sports (football, basketball, hockey) with both manual focus SLRs and Leica M2-M4. I eventually preferred the Leica Ms as with a 90mm I could see the action around the frame and shift framing instantly. I learned to pre-focus on a spot where I expected the action to occur and catch the exposure when action got to that spot. I also got pretty good at follow-focus: keeping a subject in focus as the distance changed. (Follow focus was easier with an SLR.) 

Of course in film days we didn't take high frame rates or expect every shot to be perfect. I'd typically just take up to 36 or 72 (2 cameras) shots in a game, and expect to get 6-10 winners out of that for publication, and if a shot looked good at 8x10 print, that's what we wanted. You couldn't count the eyelashes, but who would want to?

I never used an autofocus camera until recently, but admit that today's "wonders" with high-speed eye-autofocus is the easy way to go. (As long as it chooses the correct set of eyes.) Yet I still much prefer a Leica M, or at least manual focus lenses where I choose the focus point.

[dpitt]

If I understand it right you might benefit from mastering zone focusing. Focusing carefully on the subject is better, but for street or when there is not enough time it works for me. I pre-focus on a given distance. Then wait for a subject to enter the frame at this distance or move towards it until it is in the pre-set zone.

The thread below can be a good start:

 

[LocalHero1953]

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Edited August 2, 2024 by LocalHero1953

[otto.f]

3 hours ago, Xavi said:

so I know it has to be a problem of mine

I wouldn't be perfectly sure about that. A rangefinder is not foolproof and it happens too often that a new digital M has to go back to Leica for adjustment. You can easily find out the necessity of this by checking your rangefinder focus with LV when you put your M11 on a tripod.

[Xavi]

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Hace 37 minutos, jankap dijo:

Puedes descargar en tu PC la aplicación FastRawViewer. Con esto, se puede ver dónde está el área de enfoque de una imagen.

I didn't think there could be an app that would tell me the focus area of a photo taken with a Leica M

[Xavi]

Hace 2 horas, jankap dijo:

Puedes descargar en tu PC la aplicación FastRawViewer. Con esto, se puede ver dónde está el área de enfoque de una imagen.

También muéstranos aquí una de las fotos cuestionadas.

I downloaded FastRaw, I understand that I have to focus on Focus Picking > Fine Details, right?

I attach some photos

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[jankap]

I downloaded FastRaw, I understand that I have to focus on Focus Picking > Fine Details, right?

I have set the GPU processing to "0.40". Use the "P" on your keyboard.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Lolita is ok, but the pavement in front is critical already. The text and the woman are in focus

Lower left: the sharpness is too far away. Have a look at the wall at the right side.

Lower right: the man is more in focus. Here the wall is critical too.

You use large fstops, then nothing is unsharp. But it seems, that you focus on far objects.

Please use - to get accustomed - to the rangefinder small fstops. As an exercise.😀

Edited August 2, 2024 by jankap

[spydrxx]

I ran the photos thru Topaz Sharpen AI (motion) and they came out quite a bit better (sharper), suggesting, among other things, that there was probably slight camera movement in your shots. Zone focusing can be a challenge for some who might not be good at estimating distance to their main subject. As others suggested, it might help to use the rangefinder to focus on a spot and wait for your subject to walk into that spot. I've found, with digital bodies, setting a hyperfocal distance isn't as reliable as with film, and one should assume that you need to set an extra f/stop to cover the zone effectively. Having grown up with film, not digital, and cameras without rangefinders, only viewfinders, there are a variety of tricks one can employ to secure desired focus. Such as, if you are walking into a scene, preset your focus for the desired distance and then walk toward your subject and fire the shutter, using a relatively high speed, when you reach that distance. This trick works especially well when shooting from the hip...but you will have to crop the finished product to secure the proper perspective and composition.

[LocalHero1953]

DoF algorithms and hyperfocal distances were designed for film, its grain, its resolution and (nothing to do with film) viewing in a print at a certain distance. With high res sensors, viewed at pixel level, with no image stabilisation, one probably ought to start from scratch and decide how much pixel-level blur one can accept and correct in post. This is a practicing and learning exercise if one comes from an AF, stabilised camera.

[250swb]

19 hours ago, Xavi said:

 

When I shoot a stationary object and use the rangefinder, I do get focus. 

 

And that is a perfectly good way to focus in street photography even for fast moving scenes, pre-focus on an area people are going to walk through in the scene and press the button when they do. I think you'd also get much quicker using the rangefinder patch if you stuck with it and practiced more.

Zone focusing is a lame system if you want critical sharpness but you could help yourself by just bumping the ISO up to 5000 (or whatever) so you can use both a small aperture AND a fast shutter speed. The problem with that is the best street photography often embraces planes of focus that add depth to the image and isolate the subject by having only that person or object in focus.

So don't give up on making a choice about what is important in the scene and use a shallow DOF to isolate a person or object. Going back to zone focusing if everything is in focus everything in the scene becomes as important as the next which can visually devalue the thing that caught your eye.

[otto.f]

15 minutes ago, 250swb said:

And that is a perfectly good way to focus in street photography even for fast moving scenes, pre-focus on an area people are going to walk through in the scene and press the button when they do. I think you'd also get much quicker using the rangefinder patch if you stuck with it and practiced more.

Zone focusing is a lame system if you want critical sharpness but you could help yourself by just bumping the ISO up to 5000 (or whatever) so you can use both a small aperture AND a fast shutter speed. The problem with that is the best street photography often embraces planes of focus that add depth to the image and isolate the subject by having only that person or object in focus.

So don't give up on making a choice about what is important in the scene and use a shallow DOF to isolate a person or object. Going back to zone focusing if everything is in focus everything in the scene becomes as important as the next which can visually devalue the thing that caught your eye.

Can't agree more. Besides, one of the main reasons to work with a Leica above other camera's, at least historically, is/was that they try to get the best IQ of a lens at full aperture. In one of his recent interviews Karbe encouraged us to use the APO 35 at full aperture.

[Ko.Fe.]

35 on M was my street/everywhere/everyday setup for years. 

First of all you need to wear it properly. Via neck strap on your chest. 

Look down. Important basics to review. First scale (closest to your body) is DOF scale. Same numbers on the left and on the right. These numbers are the aperture selected on the last scale, aperture ring  located from your body. The ring/scale in the middle is the focus ring. With meters (and some odd, useless numbers as well  )

Now set the aperture to f8 (last rings from your body). Look at two scales after it. Rotate focus ring (middle one) to have infinity mark aligned with number 8 on the right. Look at the left. On my 35 number 8 on first (to your body) scale/ring is aligned between numbers 2 and 3.

What it means? It means lens is focused between 2.5 meters and infinity. 

Now, align 1 on the focus ring with 8 on the left at the closest to you scale. Then look at the right 8 (same closest to you scale). On my 35 it is closer to 1.5.

What it means? It means lens in focus only from 1 meter to 1.7 meters. 

This is it. The lens shows you which distance range it is in focus, depending on the aperture selected. Trust only to it, while the hyperfocal thing is just a bogus. 

Extra tips for real street photography with M.

t1. Take measure tape. Roll it out for one meter. Get a feel how close it is. Roll it to 2, 3 and 5 meters (just as it is marked at your lens focus scale). Practice feel of 1, 2, 3 and 5 meters until you judge the distance correctly without metering with measure tape.

This will allows you focus with even larger apertures quick and accurate. 

t2. If your lens has focus tab (if not, add it), close your eyes. Remember, the only right way to  wear M is via neck strap on your chest. Eyes closed, focus tab to the right. Open eyes, look at the lens. You have focused it all way to infinity. 

Close your eyes again, focus tab all way to the left, open eyes, look down, lens is focused as close as possible. 

Now, for the street, determine which is your most working range. To me it is between 2 and 5 meters. Look at the focus scale, move focus tab to see how focus range is changing. You will notice what focus tab position corresponds to different focus ranges. It means you  could have tree positions of the focus tab, covering most used ranges. Close, middle (most used) and far. 

Practice with closes eyes to move focus tab to every three focus ranges. 

While on the street, keep focus tab on middle range. If something happing in the range, just frame it.

If it is close range - focus tab to the left, far range to the right. Frame and take it, always return to mid range while in action. It will become automatic. Close - left, middle (default tab position), far - right, done - tab to the middle range.

The lens must be suitable for it. The only suitable I have is Leica modern 35. With current focus tab shape and smooth, easy rotation of the focus tab. Zeiss, Voigtlander (Cosina made) won't do it as smooth as needed. Their focus tabs aren't as good as Leica current ones, either. 

t3. Once finished - focus tab all way to the left, this will apply minimum tension on RF arm. 

Let me know if it is clear. If something isn't, I could add some visuals showing how to do it. 

[Xavi]

Hace 2 horas, Ko.Fe. dijo:

35 en M fue mi configuración de calle/en todas partes/diario durante años.

En primer lugar, tienes que usarlo correctamente. A través de una correa para el cuello en el pecho.

Mira hacia abajo. Conceptos básicos importantes para revisar. La primera escala (más cercana a tu cuerpo) es la escala DOF. Los mismos números a la izquierda y a la derecha. Estos números son la apertura seleccionada en la última escala, el anillo de apertura ubicado en su cuerpo. El anillo/escala en el medio es el anillo de enfoque. Con metros (y algunos números impares e inútiles también) )

Ahora establece la apertura en f8 (últimos anillos de tu cuerpo). Mira dos escalas después. Gire el anillo de enfoque (en el medio) para tener la marca de infinito alineada con el número 8 a la derecha. Mira a la izquierda. En mi 35 número 8 en la primera escala/anillo (a tu cuerpo) está alineado entre los números 2 y 3.

¿Qué significa? Significa que la lente está enfocada entre 2,5 metros e infinito.

Ahora, alinea 1 en el anillo de enfoque con 8 a la izquierda en la escala más cercana a tu escala. Luego mira el 8 de la derecha (la misma escala más cercana a tu escala). En mi 35 está más cerca de 1,5.

¿Qué significa? Significa lente enfocada solo de 1 metro a 1,7 metros.

Esto es todo. El objetivo le muestra qué rango de distancia está enfocado, dependiendo de la apertura seleccionada. Confía solo en él, mientras que lo hiperfocal es simplemente falso.

Consejos adicionales para la fotografía callejera real con M.

t1. Tome cinta métrica. Estálalo durante un metro. Hazte una idea de lo cerca que está. Enróllalo a 2, 3 y 5 metros (tal y como está marcado en la escala de enfoque de la lente). Practica la sensación de 1, 2, 3 y 5 metros hasta que juzgues la distancia correctamente sin medir con cinta métrica.

Esto te permitirá enfocar con aperturas aún más grandes de forma rápida y precisa.

t2. Si tu lente tiene una pestaña de enfoque (si no, añádela), cierra los ojos. Recuerda, la única forma correcta de usar M es a través de la correa para el cuello en el pecho. Ojos cerrados, pestaña de enfoque a la derecha. Abre los ojos, mira la lente. Lo has enfocado hasta el infinito.

Cierra los ojos de nuevo, enfoca la pestaña hacia la izquierda, abre los ojos, mira hacia abajo, la lente está enfocada lo más cerca posible.

Ahora, para la calle, determina cuál es tu rango más práctico. Para mí es entre 2 y 5 metros. Mira la escala de enfoque, mueve la pestaña de enfoque para ver cómo está cambiando el rango de enfoque. Notarás qué posición de la pestaña de enfoque corresponde a los diferentes rangos de enfoque. Significa que podrías tener posiciones de árbol de la pestaña de enfoque, cubriendo la mayoría de los rangos utilizados. Cerca, medio (más usado) y lejos.

Practica con los ojos cerrados para mover la pestaña de enfoque a cada tres rangos de enfoque.

Mientras estés en la calle, mantén la pestaña de enfoque en el rango medio. Si algo está pasando en el rango, solo enmarcarlo.

Si está a un rango cercano: pestaña de enfoque a la izquierda, rango lejano a la derecha. Enmarca y tómalo, siempre vuelve a la gama media mientras estás en acción. Se volverá automático. Cerrar - izquierda, centro (posición de pestaña predeterminada), muy a la derecha, hecho - pestaña al rango medio.

La lente debe ser adecuada para ello. El único adecuado que tengo es Leica modern 35. Con la forma actual de la pestaña de enfoque y la rotación suave y fácil de la pestaña de enfoque. Zeiss, Voigtlander (hecho por Cosina) no lo hará tan bien como sea necesario. Sus pestañas de enfoque tampoco son tan buenas como las actuales de Leica.

t3. Una vez terminado, la pestaña de enfoque hacia la izquierda, esto aplicará una tensión mínima en el brazo de RF.

Avísame si está claro. Si algo no lo es, podría añadir algunas imágenes que muestren cómo hacerlo.

I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks for your detailed explanation.

[250swb]

4 hours ago, otto.f said:

Can't agree more. Besides, one of the main reasons to work with a Leica above other camera's, at least historically, is/was that they try to get the best IQ of a lens at full aperture. In one of his recent interviews Karbe encouraged us to use the APO 35 at full aperture.

I'm not a fan of wide open aperture for the sake of it though, acres of boring OOF bokeh is a blight and it should only be used if the main subject tells enough of the story by itself.