Q Series - Simple tips for beginners, the confused and the lazy - please add yours.

[Le Chef]

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@jaapv started a similar thread for the CL, and I thought it might help people here get the most out of their Q Series cameras. As always the first task is to read the instruction manual to understand the basics. There are many ways in which the Q Series cameras can be tweaked to make the most of their performance. Who wants to start?

[bobtodrick]

Set everything to manual, learn how to properly expose and understand depth of field, and effects of intentional slow shutter speed blur.

Then worry about all the fancy features.

Sorry…that’s all I got 😂😂

[Trankster]

User Profiles (page 61). When your settings are perfected for a particular situation, save the settings to a User Profile (menu 4).  You have 6 profiles available which can be named.  For instance, I have profiles for general purposes (my starting point), mono, B&W high contrast, action (grandkids) and landscape. Start with user profile 1 and build other profiles from there. You can save your profiles by exporting (menu 4, manage profiles, export) which is important when updating firmware or resetting the  camera.

EVF-LCD Settings (page 66).  My display setting (menu 5) is set to EVF extended as I mainly focus and compose through viewfinder.

Customize function buttons (menu 5 Customize Control) for your most common functions.  For instance, my function button 2 is set for AE-L to lock exposure and thumbwheel button is set for user profile.

Favorites menu (page 58).  Can assign your most used menu items (menu 4 customized control). 

 

[jaapv]

This is a thread for technical tips. OT posts will be removed without warning. Over to you, Q users. 

[Corius]

OK, here's a quick guide to User Profiles. I've written this in previous posts, but now we have a FAQ.

1) The camera re-starts with the same settings as when it is switched off. There are a couple of transitory settings where this doesn't happen, but they are pretty unusual.

2) The User Profiles store virtually ALL camera settings with the exception of Shutter Speed, Aperture etc. Even the current display bars are stored.

3) Once you select a previously saved  User Profile it's number will be shown in the User Profile  icon in the Status Screen

4) ANY changes to settings will mean that the number shown for the current User Profile is no longer shown. There is no way to tell what User Profile you were previously in, or what the change was. This is a shortcoming of the UI

5) If you select eg User Profile 1, and then change a setting you will no longer see the "1" in the Status Screen (see 4 above), but if you change the setting back the "1" will re-appear.

6) The icon with an "S" is the Standard Profile Setting. The Standard Profile Setting can not be changed

7) The icon with an "X" is just a means of exiting the menu. This is VERY confusing

 

[Corius]

Digital Crop:

The Digital Crop does NOT give the same results as doing a crop in post processing because the Digital Crop restricts the camera's exposure metering to the crop area. 

Also, the Digital Crop restricts the camera's autofocus region to the crop area

Edited July 16, 2024 by Corius

[WeiterWinkel]

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vor 18 Stunden schrieb Corius:

OK, here's a quick guide to User Profiles. I've written this in previous posts, but now we have a FAQ.

1) The camera re-starts with the same settings as when it is switched off. There are a couple of transitory settings where this doesn't happen, but they are pretty unusual.

2) The User Profiles store virtually ALL camera settings with the exception of Shutter Speed, Aperture etc. Even the current display bars are stored.

3) Once you select a previously saved  User Profile it's number will be shown in the User Profile  icon in the Status Screen

4) ANY changes to settings will mean that the number shown for the current User Profile is no longer shown. There is no way to tell what User Profile you were previously in, or what the change was. This is a shortcoming of the UI

5) If you select eg User Profile 1, and then change a setting you will no longer see the "1" in the Status Screen (see 4 above), but if you change the setting back the "1" will re-appear.

6) The icon with an "S" is the Standard Profile Setting. The Standard Profile Setting can not be changed

7) The icon with an "X" is just a means of exiting the menu. This is VERY confusing

 

Perhaps you could add 8): Always export your User Profiles to the SD-Card. It's a lot easier to import your profile settings from the card than rebuild them from scratch after you had to reset your Q (or any other digital Leica) for any reason.

[Corius]

8 minutes ago, WeiterWinkel said:

Perhaps you could add 8): Always export your User Profiles to the SD-Card. It's a lot easier to import your profile settings from the card than rebuild them from scratch after you had to reset your Q (or any other digital Leica) for any reason.

Good point, but unfortunately I can no longer edit my post.

@jaapv Are you able to edit posts? It might help to keep this thread tidier.

[stuny]

If you cannot focus (either auto focus or manual) one of two things is the issue:

1.  You may have left the macro ring in the position you last used it.  This will be an issue with either the LCD or the eye-level viewfinder

2.  You may have accidentally moved the diopter setting wheel that is just to the right of the viewfinder.  This will be an issue only with the eye-level viewfinder.  Adjust the wheel while looking through the viewfinder.

[SirBlunder]

Half press locks exposure/focus, full press takes the photo, and if you release only back to the half press, you can preserve the same exposure/focus settings and continue shooting via full press/back to half press/full press/back to half press etc. 

Obvious to some, but IMO worth mentioning. For me, the only way that I shoot is to expose and focus using the point-focus and center-weighted settings, respectively, and then to reframe as needed, so this feature is vital. Lots of photos of my kids who move around a lot (lol)

I also have my image preview set to 0 seconds (i.e., not at all) so as to not interrupt my ability to quickly shoot with a live-view from the EVF or back display. 

[mbphotox]

 

2. A LIM's half-case and JJC thumbgrip greatly improve ergonomics of the camera and protect it reasonably well.

[David Wien]

On 7/22/2024 at 3:52 PM, SirBlunder said:

Half press locks exposure/focus, full press takes the photo, and if you release only back to the half press, you can preserve the same exposure/focus settings and continue shooting via full press/back to half press/full press/back to half press etc. 

Obvious to some, but IMO worth mentioning. For me, the only way that I shoot is to expose and focus using the point-focus and center-weighted settings, respectively, and then to reframe as needed, so this feature is vital. Lots of photos of my kids who move around a lot (lol)

Thanks for that advice. I also focus like you, and had no idea one could partially release the shutter button!

You live and learn...

David

[SirBlunder]

On 8/1/2024 at 2:33 PM, David Wien said:

Thanks for that advice. I also focus like you, and had no idea one could partially release the shutter button!

You live and learn...

David

Yup. If you NEED to get a shot of e.g. a bunch of people or a hectic scene… use this method and you can snap lots of frames in a short period of time after you’ve locked the focus and exposure. Speeds you up by a factor of 10.

[Genoweffa]

re convenience:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

-leather cap

-bottom attachment...thus Q hangs 'vertically' plus rh is 'free' from a strap

-quick release nylon strap (from lens case by rg)

-hoage thumb

-lims leather case

 

Edited August 23, 2024 by Genoweffa

[SirBlunder]

On 7/22/2024 at 9:52 AM, SirBlunder said:

Half press locks exposure/focus, full press takes the photo, and if you release only back to the half press, you can preserve the same exposure/focus settings and continue shooting via full press/back to half press/full press/back to half press etc. 

Obvious to some, but IMO worth mentioning. For me, the only way that I shoot is to expose and focus using the point-focus and center-weighted settings, respectively, and then to reframe as needed, so this feature is vital. Lots of photos of my kids who move around a lot (lol)

I also have my image preview set to 0 seconds (i.e., not at all) so as to not interrupt my ability to quickly shoot with a live-view from the EVF or back display. 

Glad people liked this tip! For me it's totally indispensable when using my Q2. 

Another vital tip for newer users (in my opinion): It's vital to under-expose your shots almost all of the time with the Q2, with some exceptions. (Note that I almost always expose using the center-weighted option.) Although I love the sensor, highlights very easily get blown out whereas even the darkest shadows are recoverable in post. My typical workflow (I use Adobe Lightroom, but the non-classic version (side note... Adobe really needs to update their naming convention for these apps)) is that after dropping all my raw files in, I increase the exposure of all the shots by at least a step before going through all the photos. (I just edit the first one and then copy the settings over across all the photos.)

[Dr. G]

On 8/3/2024 at 5:20 PM, SirBlunder said:

Yup. If you NEED to get a shot of e.g. a bunch of people or a hectic scene… use this method and you can snap lots of frames in a short period of time after you’ve locked the focus and exposure. Speeds you up by a factor of 10.

It's good to know this can be done for stitching purposes.  I'm under the impression that back button focus isn't available on the Q3.

[leicameech]

1. Face/Eye/Body detect AF mode detects faces if they're in the frame before you even focus on them. If a person's face is out of focus but the camera picks it up, you'll see a box around the blurry face. At that point, as soon as you half-press the shutter release button to lock in exposure and focus, you can rest assured that that face is where the camera will focus without you needing to do anything else.

When no face is detected (no people in photo or the face(s) make up too small of a portion of the frame and are not recognized as faces), this AF mode defaults to Field, which is my favorite for non-people photography. It's the little rectangle that can be moved throughout the frame via the touch screen or up/right/left/down D-Pad to the right of the LCD screen. Face/Eye/Body detect mode is two focus modes in one (and they're the best two). 

On the quick menu, in the two bottom rows of icons, the AF mode is in the top row, second from the left. In the menu it can be found in Focusing>AF Mode. 

2. Touch screen drives me nuts so I turn it off, which can also be done in Menu>Focusing>Touch AF.

3. Speaking of touch screen, even when touch AF is turned off, if in one of the AF modes that allow you to move the focus point around in the frame (i.e. any mode except Multi-field), double tapping the screen with your finger will reset the focus point to the center of the frame.

4. Touch AF in EVF means that when you're looking through the viewfinder, you can still touch the screen and move the focus point to the area of the frame corresponding to your finger on the black screen (screen is black because you're looking through the viewfinder). Cool feature, still don't use it. Menu>Focusing>Touch AF in EVF

 

 

 

[PanHay]

On 7/16/2024 at 2:37 PM, Corius said:

Digital Crop:

The Digital Crop does NOT give the same results as doing a crop in post processing because the Digital Crop restricts the camera's exposure metering to the crop area. 

Also, the Digital Crop restricts the camera's autofocus region to the crop area

Being a prospective Q3 owner, would you suggest just to use the crop marks to frame & crop in post for best results?

[Le Chef]

8 hours ago, PanHay said:

Being a prospective Q3 owner, would you suggest just to use the crop marks to frame & crop in post for best results?

The crop marks are not artistic tools. Crop as you see fit in post. They are simply a place to start if you don’t want full frame. You might for example rotate the frame to make it portrait rather than landscape. Lots of possibilities that are not defined by crop marks.

Edited September 15, 2024 by Le Chef

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Hallo,

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[LocalHero1953]

8 hours ago, PanHay said:

Being a prospective Q3 owner, would you suggest just to use the crop marks to frame & crop in post for best results?

See post #6. This is the most useful and most forgotten function of the crop marks.