status of M11 lockups/freezes?

[brickftl]

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I'm wondering if the newest build M11's suffer from lockups/freezes? Were those issues only affecting earlier builds and not the newest ones so that I could confidently buy the newest build knowing that it wouldn't lockup/freeze?

 

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[Viv]

Mine has never locked up nor frozen.

It's a year old.

[brickftl]

1 minute ago, Viv said:

Mine has never locked up nor frozen.

It's a year old.

do you happen to know it's build date?

[Viv]

31 minutes ago, brickftl said:

do you happen to know it's build date?

No, sorry

[bcaslis]

I see no correlation to build date. I have an M11 build 10/22 that I purchased December 2022 that has had 5 freezes in over 5000 shots.

 

[Marc B-C]

There are a number of recent threads relating to the latest firmware release and the impact on cameras not freezing (or otherwise). Whilst some cameras are working fine, I think the firmware is more important than the build date. 

[Rollei35]

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1 hour ago, Marc B-C said:

There are a number of recent threads relating to the latest firmware release and the impact on cameras not freezing (or otherwise). Whilst some cameras are working fine, I think the firmware is more important than the build date. 

even with the same firmware and close build date, some freeze, some don't

it's still a mystery now.

[Malabito]

No one knows what's really happening, and no one knows if it's indeed related to the build date. I know people with newer cameras having constant freezes, while others with older build cameras rarely have freezes (that's my situation, for example). Whoever tells you what's happening is either lying or speculating.

To be honest, I don't even think Leica really knows, and if they do, they are doing a terrible job of controlling the situation. Just Google "M11 freezes."

[crons]

6 hours ago, brickftl said:

I'm wondering if the newest build M11's suffer from lockups/freezes? Were those issues only affecting earlier builds and not the newest ones so that I could confidently buy the newest build knowing that it wouldn't lockup/freeze?

 

The status is the same as it was when the camera came out. Some lock up and freeze and some don't. 

Also some people who were experiencing the issue were helped by the update. Others the update introduced problems they didnt have before. 

And that's the state of things. 

[EdwardWestin]

11 hours ago, Viv said:

Mine has never locked up nor frozen.

It's a year old.

Since the issue of locks up from user seem to have so many variables can I ask - 

 

1. What SD card(s) are you using? (Brand, Size, Write Speed)

2. Do you shoot to the internal drive? (if so as a backup, overflow or splitting DNG and JPGS) 

3. Are you using Leica lenses, Voightlander or other? 

[Viv]

5 hours ago, EdwardWestin said:

Since the issue of locks up from user seem to have so many variables can I ask - 

 

1. What SD card(s) are you using? (Brand, Size, Write Speed)

2. Do you shoot to the internal drive? (if so as a backup, overflow or splitting DNG and JPGS) 

3. Are you using Leica lenses, Voightlander or other? 

1. Sandisk Ultra, 64 GB, 80 MB/S.

2. No.

3. Zeiss and Voigtländer.

[geoffc60]

My M11 build date is June 2023 firmware v1.6.2. never had a freeze/lockup

[lct]

8 hours ago, EdwardWestin said:

Since the issue of locks up from user seem to have so many variables can I ask -

1. What SD card(s) are you using? (Brand, Size, Write Speed)

2. Do you shoot to the internal drive? (if so as a backup, overflow or splitting DNG and JPGS) 

3. Are you using Leica lenses, Voightlander or other? 

People answering yes or no to either question or to all of them can have freeze issues or none so not sure what you can do with such informations. A guy like me is using all sort of M-mount lenses, with all sort of SD cards on either IN or IN + SD storage. Got no freeze from firmware 1.6.1 to 2.0.0.9 and minor freezes under the current one. By minor i mean that popping out and in, so to speak, battery and/or card and/or lens car fix the issue. Waiting for the next firmware seems like the only advice i can give for now.

[Almizilero]

Has anyone ever had image loss on the M11? There are youtubers (yeah, I know...) reporting the SL3 is loosing images because it resets the image numbering after a battery change and overwrites the existing numbers. Some commenters claim they had this issue with the M11 as well. Never heard of that before, but would be interesting to know.

[Malabito]

1 hour ago, Almizilero said:

Has anyone ever had image loss on the M11? There are youtubers (yeah, I know...) reporting the SL3 is loosing images because it resets the image numbering after a battery change and overwrites the existing numbers. Some commenters claim they had this issue with the M11 as well. Never heard of that before, but would be interesting to know.

I had one corrupt file, (previous firmware), and had one time in which no data was written to the sd card, I have my camera setup as raw to sd card, jpg to internal memory, that time no raws were recorded on the sd. And no, its not that i forgot to insert the sd card, when that happens the raw files are written in the internal memory with the jgs. This was also a onetime event, (prior to the current firmware).

[EdwardWestin]

2 hours ago, lct said:

People answering yes or no to either question or to all of them can have freeze issues or none so not sure what you can do with such informations. A guy like me is using all sort of M-mount lenses, with all sort of SD cards on either IN or IN + SD storage. Got no freeze from firmware 1.6.1 to 2.0.0.9 and minor freezes under the current one. By minor i mean that popping out and in, so to speak, battery and/or card and/or lens car fix the issue. Waiting for the next firmware seems like the only advice i can give for now.

No one has really asked these questions to someone who has reported NO freezing.  For those that have reported, there seems to be so many variables as to what they think the issue could be attributed to.

So, it would be interesting to hear what someone who hasn't experienced the freezing issues as to  what they using/workflow.

Is it an SD card issue (brand / speed or card size issue?)  Is it a using non-coded lenses or using non-coded lenses in Auto detect lens mode? Is it an issue when writing to both the SD plus the internal memory? etc etc.

 

Edited July 4, 2024 by EdwardWestin

[lct]

Can be either or all that. I have reported my lack of issues for a long time here but it was prior to firmware 2.1.1. All of us have been trying to identify "the" cause or at least one common cause of freezes, to no avail so far. There are probably several causes at play, one of them being user error or behaviour neglecting Leica recommendations but nobody can tell which is the main cause, if any.

[ianforber]

4 hours ago, EdwardWestin said:

No one has really asked these questions to someone who has reported NO freezing.  For those that have reported, there seems to be so many variables as to what they think the issue could be attributed to.

So, it would be interesting to hear what someone who hasn't experienced the freezing issues as to  what they using/workflow.

Is it an SD card issue (brand / speed or card size issue?)  Is it a using non-coded lenses or using non-coded lenses in Auto detect lens mode? Is it an issue when writing to both the SD plus the internal memory? etc etc.

 

As someone who hasn’t experienced any freezes, I’ll have a go. 
 

I exclusively use a single SD card - a SanDisk 64GB UHS  II 300 Mb/s. I have only needed to use IN once. I always extract the SD card and use a SanDisk SD card reader to import the images onto my MacBook Pro (into Capture One). After importing onto the computer, I return the SD card to the camera and format it. I have never used software to format the card in the MacBook (eg SD card formatter). I never delete images in camera or give them any sort of star rating. 

I almost always use Aperture priority and auto ISO. Sometimes I will use manual aperture and shutter speed but retain auto ISO. Very occasionally I will go fully manual

I shoot DNG+jpeg. Always DNG Large and initially jpeg Large too but after a while I changed to jpeg Small. Roughly 70% of the time I use b&w high contrast as the jpeg setting. The other 30% is jpeg colour standard. 

I don’t use the visioflex or a flash or have anything inserted in the hotshoe. 

I’ve never used the USB slot. I use FOTOS, both to control the camera when it’s on a tripod and to update the firmware. I have never knowingly used geotagging. 

I only have 2 lenses - a 50mm Summicron v5 and a non-coded Voigtlander 35mm f1.5 Nokton. I use lens detect auto and have chosen the Leica 35mm Summilux profile from the M11 option menu so that is what it thinks is mounted when I use the non-coded lens. 

When out photographing, I always leave the camera on so it can go to sleep as it sees fit. I will occasionally keep it awake with a brief half-press of the shutter button. I have the rear screen switched off with no auto show of the image you’ve just taken. I use the FN button to switch on live view if I need to use the rear screen. I will occasionally use the play button to look at images during the day, mainly to check if my zone focusing settings are working.

I have the shutter set to Continuous Low but almost always just take a single shot. Initially I used centre weighted metering but then moved to highlight weighted. 

I always wait about 10s after I first switch the camera on that day to allow it wake up properly. If I am subsequently switching the camera on, eg after putting it away in a bag, I might not wait that long (2s?) but certainly until after the red light has gone off. I never press play v soon after taking the shot  

Let me know if I’ve missed anything you want to know!

 

 

 

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[Malabito]

32 minutes ago, ianforber said:

As someone who hasn’t experienced any freezes, I’ll have a go. 
 

I exclusively use a single SD card - a SanDisk 64GB UHS  II 300 Mb/s. I have only needed to use IN once. I always extract the SD card and use a SanDisk SD card reader to import the images onto my MacBook Pro (into Capture One). After importing onto the computer, I return the SD card to the camera and format it. I have never used software to format the card in the MacBook (eg SD card formatter). I never delete images in camera or give them any sort of star rating. 

I almost always use Aperture priority and auto ISO. Sometimes I will use manual aperture and shutter speed but retain auto ISO. Very occasionally I will go fully manual

I shoot DNG+jpeg. Always DNG Large and initially jpeg Large too but after a while I changed to jpeg Small. Roughly 70% of the time I use b&w high contrast as the jpeg setting. The other 30% is jpeg colour standard. 

I don’t use the visioflex or a flash or have anything inserted in the hotshoe. 

I’ve never used the USB slot. I use FOTOS, both to control the camera when it’s on a tripod and to update the firmware. I have never knowingly used geotagging. 

I only have 2 lenses - a 50mm Summicron v5 and a non-coded Voigtlander 35mm f1.5 Nokton. I use lens detect auto and have chosen the Leica 35mm Summilux profile from the M11 option menu so that is what it thinks is mounted when I use the non-coded lens. 

When out photographing, I always leave the camera on so it can go to sleep as it sees fit. I will occasionally keep it awake with a brief half-press of the shutter button. I have the rear screen switched off with no auto show of the image you’ve just taken. I use the FN button to switch on live view if I need to use the rear screen. I will occasionally use the play button to look at images during the day, mainly to check if my zone focusing settings are working.

I have the shutter set to Continuous Low but almost always just take a single shot. Initially I used centre weighted metering but then moved to highlight weighted. 

I always wait about 10s after I first switch the camera on that day to allow it wake up properly. If I am subsequently switching the camera on, eg after putting it away in a bag, I might not wait that long (2s?) but certainly until after the red light has gone off. I never press play v soon after taking the shot  

Let me know if I’ve missed anything you want to know!

 

 

 

Just curious you mentioned you have the shutter to continuous low... don't you find that it behaves irregular? Like sometimes it shoots many picts on a row when you try to shoot one image and sometimes many?

I actually cant use the camera in continuous low, it has to be in single or in high, but also in high it's quite erratic 

[EdwardWestin]

6 hours ago, ianforber said:

As someone who hasn’t experienced any freezes, I’ll have a go. 
 

I exclusively use a single SD card - a SanDisk 64GB UHS  II 300 Mb/s. I have only needed to use IN once. I always extract the SD card and use a SanDisk SD card reader to import the images onto my MacBook Pro (into Capture One). After importing onto the computer, I return the SD card to the camera and format it. I have never used software to format the card in the MacBook (eg SD card formatter). I never delete images in camera or give them any sort of star rating. 

I almost always use Aperture priority and auto ISO. Sometimes I will use manual aperture and shutter speed but retain auto ISO. Very occasionally I will go fully manual

I shoot DNG+jpeg. Always DNG Large and initially jpeg Large too but after a while I changed to jpeg Small. Roughly 70% of the time I use b&w high contrast as the jpeg setting. The other 30% is jpeg colour standard. 

I don’t use the visioflex or a flash or have anything inserted in the hotshoe. 

I’ve never used the USB slot. I use FOTOS, both to control the camera when it’s on a tripod and to update the firmware. I have never knowingly used geotagging. 

I only have 2 lenses - a 50mm Summicron v5 and a non-coded Voigtlander 35mm f1.5 Nokton. I use lens detect auto and have chosen the Leica 35mm Summilux profile from the M11 option menu so that is what it thinks is mounted when I use the non-coded lens. 

When out photographing, I always leave the camera on so it can go to sleep as it sees fit. I will occasionally keep it awake with a brief half-press of the shutter button. I have the rear screen switched off with no auto show of the image you’ve just taken. I use the FN button to switch on live view if I need to use the rear screen. I will occasionally use the play button to look at images during the day, mainly to check if my zone focusing settings are working.

I have the shutter set to Continuous Low but almost always just take a single shot. Initially I used centre weighted metering but then moved to highlight weighted. 

I always wait about 10s after I first switch the camera on that day to allow it wake up properly. If I am subsequently switching the camera on, eg after putting it away in a bag, I might not wait that long (2s?) but certainly until after the red light has gone off. I never press play v soon after taking the shot  

Let me know if I’ve missed anything you want to know!

It was perfect and detailed and I thank you for your response.