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I suspect I'm missing something obvious here.

For long video recordings, I run the SL2-S from mains power supply and a cable to the USB-C port (I'm considering a power bank for this).  Leica also produces the DC-SCL6 dummy battery adapter, which has a USB-C input.

Is there a good reason for choosing one solution over the other? Is it just to free up the USB-C port for other purposes? Is it worth paying ~£100 for the DC-SCL6 when the USB-C port solution appears to work anyway?

I have read other threads here about issues connecting different power banks to the DC-SCL6, and I have had my own problems connecting an Anker charger to the USB-C port - but those are separate issues to my question.

Edited by LocalHero1953
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A separate charger limits the risk for your camera. When batteries fail it is usually while charging, causing heat and possibly a fire. If that happens your camera will be damaged too...

Also, when connected to the charge cable, your camera can be subjected to power surges or peaks on the grid, which could potentially damage the internal electronics.

And of course you can use your camera while an other battery is charging in a separate charger.

Edited by dpitt
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I've used a 99W/h V-mount battery to power both a camera and an Atomos recorder (100W/h is the maximum allowed as carry-on). I've done this both with the fp, and with a Sony cinema camera. It's a very convenient way to feed a power-hungry setup, you can shoot all day and never run-out.

My battery has a USB connection, but it's not USB-PD  so it's used to top-up the phone. Some newer V-mount batteries offer USB-PD, but  that might cause cable-management issues if you also have an HDMI connection, plus a microphone or headphones.

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I use a V-mount battery with the dummy battery, it is easier to mount on a rail or cage, but I use a monitor too.

When I go to a small interview I just take the 100w USB-C battery and it works too. 
the SL3 charging true USB-C changes everything. The camera has protection true USB and limits the power that goes in.

The dummy battery works on SL2 and SL2s and Q3, if you are like me doing 2-3 camera setup.

 

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It depends on your needs. The pros and cons I see for each method are as follows.

USB-C port

  • Pro:
    • Don’t need to buy another expensive accessory
    • You still have an internal battery as a back-up in case your USB-C power source cuts out, cable comes loose, etc.
  • Con:
    • Port flap is now open and there’s more chance of getting dust and/or moisture in the camera (not sure how well sealed those ports are on the main body)
    • If the camera with a USB cable connected hits something, there’s a risk that the USB cable connector can damage the camera’s port whereas with the DC coupler, there’s a short flexible pigtail that won’t cause damage
    • More cables coming out the side

DC-Coupler

  • Pro:
    • Less worry about weather sealing for the side connectors, especially if you’re not using HDMI or audio connectors
    • Less cable clutter coming out the side of the camera if you are connecting to HDMI and audio cables coming out the side
    • Less risk of damaging the camera USB-C port if the camera bumps up against something
  • Con:
    • One more expensive accessory
    • No back-up power if the cable gets disconnected or power cuts out for any reason. Camera would stop shooting and you risk loosing photos and videos that were already shot due to file corruption

 

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Honestly the DC-Coupler has been designed for tethering. It works wonderfully for that matter. If you don't tether, I wouldn't bother with it.

Edited by Hanno
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1 hour ago, Hanno said:

Honestly the DC-Coupler has been designed for tethering. It works wonderfully for that matter. If you don't tether, I wouldn't bother with it.

I don't think that is the case.

The power coming from the computer and iPad delivers power to the camera and I can shoot almost all day on one battery.

That I know the issues of power were always Video, and video people have been asking for it from the first day since the SL2s didn't get enough power to charge and shoot at the same time.

Video people needed a solution for B camera work in the Studio, Rigs with one battery, and people that used them as a webcam.

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6 hours ago, beewee said:

It depends on your needs. The pros and cons I see for each method are as follows.

USB-C port

  • Pro:
    • Don’t need to buy another expensive accessory
    • You still have an internal battery as a back-up in case your USB-C power source cuts out, cable comes loose, etc.
  • Con:
    • Port flap is now open and there’s more chance of getting dust and/or moisture in the camera (not sure how well sealed those ports are on the main body)
    • If the camera with a USB cable connected hits something, there’s a risk that the USB cable connector can damage the camera’s port whereas with the DC coupler, there’s a short flexible pigtail that won’t cause damage
    • More cables coming out the side

DC-Coupler

  • Pro:
    • Less worry about weather sealing for the side connectors, especially if you’re not using HDMI or audio connectors
    • Less cable clutter coming out the side of the camera if you are connecting to HDMI and audio cables coming out the side
    • Less risk of damaging the camera USB-C port if the camera bumps up against something
  • Con:
    • One more expensive accessory
    • No back-up power if the cable gets disconnected or power cuts out for any reason. Camera would stop shooting and you risk loosing photos and videos that were already shot due to file corruption

 

Just for clarity, this is more in the context of the Q3 and SL3 where the camera supports USB-PD and is able to draw enough power to shoot and charge the battery at the same time.

On the SL2 and SL2-S, if you want to shoot ‘indefinitely’, then the DC-coupler is your only option.

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8 hours ago, beewee said:

Just for clarity, this is more in the context of the Q3 and SL3 where the camera supports USB-PD and is able to draw enough power to shoot and charge the battery at the same time.

On the SL2 and SL2-S, if you want to shoot ‘indefinitely’, then the DC-coupler is your only option.

With power to the SL2-S USB-C port, perhaps one can't shoot indefinitely, but one can certainly shoot for a number of hours, storage permitting. I've done it for three and a bit hours, and the battery has drained very little.

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12 hours ago, Photoworks said:

I don't think that is the case.

The power coming from the computer and iPad delivers power to the camera and I can shoot almost all day on one battery.

That I know the issues of power were always Video, and video people have been asking for it from the first day since the SL2s didn't get enough power to charge and shoot at the same time.

Video people needed a solution for B camera work in the Studio, Rigs with one battery, and people that used them as a webcam.

If you are tethering regularly and for long hours, it's really worth it, and better than constantly charging your battery if you want to optimise its battery life.

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2 hours ago, Hanno said:

If you are tethering regularly and for long hours, it's really worth it, and better than constantly charging your battery if you want to optimise its battery life.

My shoots are 4-8 hours tethered, I go true one battery and a half in a full day. 
One cable connection is enough for me.

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On 5/19/2024 at 1:04 AM, LocalHero1953 said:

With power to the SL2-S USB-C port, perhaps one can't shoot indefinitely, but one can certainly shoot for a number of hours, storage permitting. I've done it for three and a bit hours, and the battery has drained very little.

When I was out shooting the aurora during the last geomagnetic storm, I shot a few time lapse sequences consisting of around 4650 1s long exposures over 3.5hrs. With the SL2-S connected to a USB power bank, it chewed through about 50% of the internal battery. Surprisingly, the Q3 shot about 3100 1s long exposures over a period of around 2.5 hours without a USB power bank connected and it also burned through about 50% of the internal battery, albeit it was the SCL6 instead of SCL4.

I can definitely see myself using the DC-coupler with the SL2-S for an overnight time lapse.

Edited by beewee
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Yesterday I shot video for a couple of hours, and the battery was down about a quarter.

---

Thank you everyone for your comments. While power to the USB-C port obviously works for me and my needs (and is cheaper), I can see the value of the coupler:

  • Less vulnerable cable connection
  • Less stress on the battery from continuous charging
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  • 1 month later...

I ran into a problem with power. Using Capture One on a iPad Mini tethered to an SL2S, my iPad only lasted 40 minutes. The SL2S had burned thru 40% of the battery in that time. 

Some of the issues may be :

1. USB C tether cable (TetherTools) is too long (I think 5m) or need optical fibre type (Area 51)

2. Display needs to be dimmer to save power. I ran it at 100% brightness. 

Part of the problem is I want to be on battery power for a whole day as that's how I operate. 

Some things that I figured would help is a Thunderbolt 4 hub that is powered.

The question then is which hub allows me to charge both iPad and camera during the tethered session and if it is even possible to do it simultaneously. I do have V mount batteries and I'm considering the dummy battery as part of the kit. 

And another question, can the dummy battery send power thru the USB-C port to power the iPad. 

And thanks for the very helpful comments thus far with the OP's exploration. 

Edited by lx1713
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52 minutes ago, lx1713 said:

I ran into a problem with power. Using Capture One on a iPad Mini tethered to an SL2S, my iPad only lasted 40 minutes. The SL2S had burned thru 40% of the battery in that time. 

Some of the issues may be :

1. USB C tether cable (TetherTools) is too long (I think 5m) or need optical fibre type (Area 51)

2. Display needs to be dimmer to save power. I ran it at 100% brightness. 

Part of the problem is I want to be on battery power for a whole day as that's how I operate. 

Some things that I figured would help is a Thunderbolt 4 hub that is powered.

The question then is which hub allows me to charge both iPad and camera during the tethered session and if it is even possible to do it simultaneously. I do have V mount batteries and I'm considering the dummy battery as part of the kit. 

And another question, can the dummy battery send power thru the USB-C port to power the iPad. 

And thanks for the very helpful comments thus far with the OP's exploration. 

I use the 33Ft USB-C cable on the iPad Pro and I don't have problems. 
I use a USB hub when the battery of the iPad goes down to 20% and do A quick charge from a USB 100W battery. Link here

The camera takes power from the iPad if you have it set up in the camera that way. 
The USB-C on the SL2 does not charge enough to keep it alive for a long time. I had to change batteries a few times.
The SL3 will stay powered from the iPad and battery for 1/2 day.

Dummy battery may be a good solution for you, I mostly use it on video. in photos, I don't want to deal with so many cables when I shoot mobile.

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13 hours ago, Photoworks said:

I use the 33Ft USB-C cable on the iPad Pro and I don't have problems. 
I use a USB hub when the battery of the iPad goes down to 20% and do A quick charge from a USB 100W battery. Link here

The camera takes power from the iPad if you have it set up in the camera that way. 
The USB-C on the SL2 does not charge enough to keep it alive for a long time. I had to change batteries a few times.
The SL3 will stay powered from the iPad and battery for 1/2 day.

Dummy battery may be a good solution for you, I mostly use it on video. in photos, I don't want to deal with so many cables when I shoot mobile.

Many thanks! An excellent explanation and options. I appreciate that. I did see a very similar hub to what you suggested in the shops but I will go with your linked suggestion instead. Good to know about the powering differences of the SL2 and SL3

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I'll just add that for me the choice was obvious. I shoot time lapse and the dummy battery allows me to keep the camera weather sealed during long time lapse sessions.  I guess I thought that's what it was for. 😀

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I didn’t want to start another thread, but if using a USB-C charger to power the camera for long periods of time via USB can any charger over 27W be used, or is it imperative to use a charger designed to output exactly 27W?

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